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with my standard screen my head was getting battered from side to side, with my MM screen i get a light vibration on the peak of my tour-x. haven't tried it without a screen tho.
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Sans screen smooths things out but its not the answer, I still have about 8mm above normal screen gaffa taped on and its better but not great.
Interested to hear more feedback of the metal mule screen otherwise thinking about making a spoiler does anyone with a high front fender experience the same buffeting ?:Itching_KFKKYE: |
im going to continue without the screen till i find soething that sorts it!
am thinking it may be to do with the angle of the standard screen ? i dont know if anyone makes one with a backwards slope on top wondered if this might help? |
I have no problem taking a saw to my standard one if someone in the know can give me an idea what holes or slots to cut in and what tool to use ie drill / dremmel ? My Pan touring screen had a V shaped cutout either side may start there.
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Has anyone tried to put some spacers between the screen and the light cowl ? What I mean is taking out the screen screws, putting some spacers to bring the screen 'forward of the bike' and re-fixing. you'd need longer screws though
A bit random, but mayne just a little more airflow behind the screen could reduce the vacum in the cockpit and help ?? You see it on sportsbikes, where the air can flow asymetrically both sides of the screen (inside and out), |
I tried that but only had two spacers for the top screws and didn't feel too happy about only having the screen held on with 4 screws so bent the flip in it instead.
My personal belief is that the best screen design would actually be about 75mm shorter than stock, but then it would look like turd, and I am a vain man ;) |
The reason the big touring bikes have the cutouts in their screen is the amount of protection the screen gives creates a large vacuum behind it which can lift the front of the bike up making it light at high speed. By letting some air through with the slits the vacuum is reduced significantly previnting this.
The Tenere of course does not need this due to the venting that comes up from the forks behind the screen. You would only need to add the vents to the screen if you blocked this air from rising up from the forks as mentioned in another thread in this forum. |
Interesting, do you have the data sources that say that?
It was my understanding, based upon experience, that the vents were there to provide cool air for the rider when riding in hot conditions as the screens were designed to keep all the weather off the rider. I had no problems with the front going light on any of the touring and sports touring bikes I've ridden and owned. The exception being the Hayabusa but that was due to rapid opening of the throttle. |
I can't find my origional data source, but it was with reference to the larger more vertical screens on a tourer (eg pan) rather than smaller sport tourer screens. The smaller ones would not have sufficient an effect to provide noticable lift. The effect would also increace with speed so is different from acceleration lift from a powerful bike. I would not expect to find a retail bike on sale these days with a screen/fairing that would not be corrected for this of course.
To point out the effect of the reduced vacuum consider that my adding a top-box behind me to reduce vacuum drag improved my mpg on the motorway by 2-3mpg (5%). A large screen would have a much bigger effect than that. The slits will also provide cool air of course which is an added bonus (read selling point to explain the feature to those that might not understand) |
Interesting, I've only ridden a Triumph Trophy, Pan, FJR and BMW RT. The Trophy didn't have a vented screen ( I had it for a few trips) but can't remember on the others.
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