first test shows blocking diodes directly polarized OK ... 0.65 is normal reading when diode is directly polarized ... try to swap leads and measure again tomorrow when you find time for that ...

Kev was thinking on ECU pin 1 marked in blue by him on electrical drawing in his photo few replies back ... that is blue/black wire on lower row - second from left as I was suggesting ...

as per second reading values I suppose you were doing it with gear in neutral ... put the gear in any other than neutral position and measure it again ...

and I think you have mixed stand-up and stand-down as you said "long day at work" :)

multimeter you are using is OK

Right, got some more readings.

* Kev test 1 - Red lead to ECU / Black lead to negative terminal on battery. Tested with bike in gear. No change in readings when in neutral:

Stand up: .65
Stand down: 1.5 (number appears to go up quickly then screen went blank)


* Kev's test 2 - Red lead to black wire on loom side of circuit of side stand switch / Black lead to negative terminal on battery:

No readings


* Medo test 1 - Red lead to ECU / Black lead to blue/ green terminal. Tested with bike in gear. No change in readings when in neutral:

Stand up: .639
Stand down: .639


* Medo test 2 - Black lead to ECU / Red lead to blue/ green terminal. Tested with bike in gear and neutral:

Stand up + down: No reading

Did you make "Kev test no 2" with side stand up or down and did you have cable connected or disconnected from the side stand switch ... you should make this test with loom cable attached to the side stand switch and with stand in upward and downward positions ...

make also reading with red lead connected to black wire on loom side and black lead on negative battery pole, when loom is physically disconnected from side stand switch ... reading should be around zero

other test are giving results as they should be

Hi Medo, more results, here goes...

Red lead to black wire on loom side of circuit of side stand switch
Black lead to negative terminal

test conducted with loom cable attached. results were 00.3 (on setting 200 on multimeter, on the right of the 2K in the yellow circle in picture in prv post) for side stand up and down. No change when in gear or neutral.

This sounds like one of the tests I did yesterday under 'Kev's test 2' in my previous post?


Really hope that this is enough info to find the problem, as I am gagging to go for a ride now :(

Thanks for your support Medo :thumbsup:

Kev, grateful for your input too?

Denny I am watching, but with the 10 hour time zone difference, all your questions that you ask have already been replied to before I can reply.

It also can get quite confusing for the rider when you are asked by 2 different people to diagnose your problem with different lines of thought, so it is best left to one person to diagnose so not to confuse the issue, as medo says it is a very easy circuit.

Fair do's mate, I fully understand. I thought that this might be the end of the line as far as conducting tests were concerned, which is why I asked for your input.

Grateful and pleased to know that you are keeping an eye on developments, and that Medo has patiently provided concise instructions :)

Hello guys ...

I had to read all your post Denny to see what we have missed here ...

Please, take your multimeter again and put it on DC Volt with scale 20 ... that's 3 steps counter clock-wise from OFF position ... connect back all plugs except sidestand switch cable connector ... turn ignition key ON, gear in engine and put engine kill switch to STOP position ... now use RED clip of your multimeter on blue/green wire and BLACK clip on black wire of the sidestand switch plug - loom side ... you should have reading around +4.5 Volts ... if so, try to clear fault codes history by entering diag mode - code no 62 (engine kill switch set to RUN position when entering diag mode code 62; turn it over to STOP position and back again to RUN position) ...

if your multimeter shows nothing than use RED clip on blue/green wire and BLACK clip on battery negative terminal ... if reading is around +4.5 V then black wire is not connected to bike's chassis (battery negative)

if reading again is 0 then problem is to be traced further more from fuel injection system relay unit... will help you with that after you make above tests

sorry for delaying with reply but overload with work is around me ... you may have been doing some of the above tests before but this correspondence is after every 24 hours and lasting for weeks so I can ask you same question twice

Medo my friend, don't worry about the delay...I just got back from 1 week's holiday so I'm no better :) Thanks for your response, I will try the above test tmrw after work :thumbsup:

After I posted last I removed all of the insulation taping around the wiring to see if I could find any breaks in connection...all in tact as are the connection looms.

Edit...forgot to mention that I tried starting the bike a couple of times after all looms were reconnected. She turned over and fired up once...only to die after a second or two. Don't know if that signifies anything? Thanks

Sorry for this but it seems that this switch is causing a lot of headache. In my most basic of understanding the side stand switch cuts out the fuel supply via the ECU when the stand is down and a gear is selected. Surely if the bike cuts out when in neutral then it is not the switch.
In Denny�s last post he stated that he had her running for a while and the she cut out. Did this happen after selecting a gear or when in neutral?
Again sorry for butting in but I dread the day I have to get my Multithiny out.

Jason, it's a public forum and you are free to ask related questions or voice your opinion ;)

I personally don't have a clue what is wrong with my bike (obviously!). I'm guessing Medo & Kev are checking all posibilities to narrow down the cause.

The first time it happened the bike cut out a couple of times but I was able to make it home. A week later when I rode her again (ooo err!) she cut & didn't start again :(

As mentioned in my previous post when doing some of the tests Medo suggested I was able to fire her up while keeping the revs up, only for it to stall and the error message to appear on the screen.