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-   Performance Modifications & Enhancements ( https://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=52)
-   -   Engine cutting out fault codes ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=13441)

Kev 12-04-10 13:59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny (Post 125816)
Right, not sure how multimeters work...are they like voltmeters? What setting should it be on and what sort of reading should I be looking for?

Kev, I thought that connecting the two wires would bypass the sensor allowing the bike to run without it. When I combined the two pins in the connector using a flat screwdriver the error code was still showing. Does the ECU need to be reset to clear any rectified fault readings?
Yes the ECU needs to be reset.

Then do the test again, you need to put the bike into gear for the side stand switch fault to be logged again, if it is faulty it should cut out & log the same fault again.

jtb 12-04-10 14:02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny (Post 125816)
Right, not sure how multimeters work...are they like voltmeters? What setting should it be on and what sort of reading should I be looking for?

Kev, I thought that connecting the two wires would bypass the sensor allowing the bike to run without it. When I combined the two pins in the connector using a flat screwdriver the error code was still showing. Does the ECU need to be reset to clear any rectified fault readings?
Use the resistance setting to check the switch. I think the idea here is that if the multimeter shows that the switch is working ok, then you could use the multimeter to make sure the cables from the switch to the ecu are good.

Cheers
Jimmy

Kev 12-04-10 14:25
I was going to go there, but if you do not know how a Multimeter works then electrical fault finding can be hard.

Denny do you have a mulitimeter?

Denny 12-04-10 14:26
Thanks for the response lads, going to have a crack at this tonight.

Kev, ECU reset...how to? Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes?

*edit* just seen your last post Kev. Hopefully there will be someone who knows how to use a multimeter with me tonight.

Also, when you say test, should I reset the ECU, start the bike with the stand up, put it in gear then put the stand down?

Kev 12-04-10 15:14
To test the side stand switch set the multimeter to OHMS, unplug the connector behind the left side cover. Connect the multimeter wires to the switch side of the wiring, now operate the side stand up & down, what readings are shown with the side stand up & down on the multimeter? Just a reminder never do any test OHMS using a multimeter with the ECU plugged in, it might pop the ECU. I would unplug the ECU just encase you test the wrong wires.

To clear the fault memory, go into the Diagnostic screen of the dash, page to zone 62 then flip the kill switch off, on then off again, this will reset the fault memory. The dash in zone 61 & 62 should read 00.

Denny 12-04-10 15:34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev (Post 125843)
To test the side stand switch set the multimeter to OHMS, unplug the connector behind the left side cover. Connect the multimeter wires to the switch side of the wiring, now operate the side stand up & down, what readings are shown with the side stand up & down on the multimeter? Just a reminder never do any test OHMS using a multimeter with the ECU plugged in, it might pop the ECU. I would unplug the ECU just encase you test the wrong wires.

To clear the fault memory, go into the Diagnostic screen of the dash, page to zone 62 then flip the kill switch off, on then off again, this will reset the fault memory. The dash in zone 61 & 62 should read 00.
Ok, last 2 questions before I try this I think...should I reset the ECU before I try the test? Also, slightly confused...do I attach the multimeter to the cables coming from the sensor. Not sure how it can give a reading if the sensor is disconnected?

Thanks for your patience :)

Kev 12-04-10 15:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny (Post 125848)
Ok, last 2 questions before I try this I think...should I reset the ECU before I try the test? Also, slightly confused...do I attach the multimeter to the cables coming from the sensor. Not sure how it can give a reading if the sensor is disconnected?

Thanks for your patience :)
You only clear the fault memory when you are finished all testing & every thing is plugged back in.

The connector is unplugged, the multimeter is connected to the senor wiring only.

You set the multimeter to OHMS, this will pass a current thought the switch. The current will flow from the meter through the switch & back to the meter, it will display a reading. Can you give me the results displayed on the multimeter with the stand up & down, they should be different.

I am off to bed now 1145pm in Oz, let me know how you get on.

Denny 12-04-10 18:10
Sleep well Kev, thanks for your help :)

Ok, here's what I did.

Disconnected ECU, checked OHMS reading for sensor switch:

Stand up: flickering between 00.1 - 00.2
Stand down: no reading

I then reconnected everything & tried to reset the ECU. Zone 61 read 0, Zone 62 read 1. When I flicked the kill switch on/off as per the guidance Zone 62 did not clear the memory to 0. Don't know if it is of any significance, but when I flicked the kill switch to on that whirring noise (petrol pump priming?) stayed on...until I flicked it off again.

So tried starting her up & nada. The error code 19 was on the display again with the engine light on.

I also removed and opened the sensor itself up. Clean as a whistle with all parts apparently functioning visibly well.

Not sure what to do now?

medo 12-04-10 22:10
as per your readings made by ohmmeter, standswitch is OK ...

find somewhere piece of copper wire and remove sidestand switch cable connector ... you should see two wires ... blue/green one you should connect with the copper wire to some bolt (not painted and not corroded) on your bikes frame or even if you can reach negative pole on your battery ... the idea is to bypass bad contact due corrosion or broken black wire on your sidestand switch ... you can also measure with ohmmeter resistance between black wire on cable connector and bikes frame or even negative pole of the battery ... do that and send us readings ... it should be 0 or near 0

when you are trying to erase malfunction history by using diag code 62, engine kill switch must be set to RUN position before entering code 62 ... then turn it to STOP and back to RUN ... memory should be erased

Denny 13-04-10 07:30
Morning folks :happy11:

Quote:
Originally Posted by medo (Post 125902)
as per your readings made by ohmmeter, standswitch is OK ...

find somewhere piece of copper wire and remove sidestand switch cable connector ... you should see two wires ... blue/green one you should connect with the copper wire to some bolt (not painted and not corroded) on your bikes frame or even if you can reach negative pole on your battery ... the idea is to bypass bad contact due corrosion or broken black wire on your sidestand switch ... you can also measure with ohmmeter resistance between black wire on cable connector and bikes frame or even negative pole of the battery ... do that and send us readings ... it should be 0 or near 0

when you are trying to erase malfunction history by using diag code 62, engine kill switch must be set to RUN position before entering code 62 ... then turn it to STOP and back to RUN ... memory should be erased
Medo, thanks for your response. I followed the procedure listed here, and like Kev mentioned to erase the memory...with no luck unfortunatly.

Not sure I understood what you meant with the copper wire and bolt. Am I supposed to tie one end of the cable to the bolt (which in turn will touch the frame/negative terminal) and the other to the blue/black wires? And then try starting the bike and/or erase the memory?

Thanks
Denny


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