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- - Engine cutting out fault codes ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=13441)

Hi Medo, hope you're ok & not working too hard :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by medo (Post 127670)

Please, take your multimeter again and put it on DC Volt with scale 20 ... that's 3 steps counter clock-wise from OFF position ... connect back all plugs except sidestand switch cable connector ... turn ignition key ON, gear in engine and put engine kill switch to STOP position ... now use RED clip of your multimeter on blue/green wire and BLACK clip on black wire of the sidestand switch plug - loom side ... you should have reading around +4.5 Volts ... if so, try to clear fault codes history by entering diag mode - code no 62 (engine kill switch set to RUN position when entering diag mode code 62; turn it over to STOP position and back again to RUN position)

Result for this test was as you said...4.35 on the multimeter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by medo (Post 127670)

if your multimeter shows nothing than use RED clip on blue/green wire and BLACK clip on battery negative terminal ... if reading is around +4.5 V then black wire is not connected to bike's chassis (battery negative)

4.35 for this too.

I also tried to reset the fault history in diag mode, but as was the case previously I was unsuccessful. Code 62 still showed a reading of 1 fault. When I flicked the kill switch to ON the bike made that whirring noise it makes when first turning the key to start the bike(not sure if this is right but is this the petrol pump priming, similar to cars?). When I flicked the kill switch to OFF the noise went...but the fault didn't clear.

Thanks
Denny

Medo, Kev...I'm at a stage where I have to have my bike running. Extremely grateful for all your input so far, and would be further grateful if you could give some final advice (which will hopefully have the bike working) before I load the bike on a truck & have her fixed by the stealers....

Thanks
Denny

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denny (Post 128610)

It is rather hard sometimes to do electrical fault finding on a bike when you can't see a thing & relying other persons skills to do it for you. Even though you have done a great job we have missed something. It still could be the ECU or fuel pump main relay at fault. Let us know how you get on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kev (Post 128646)

It is rather hard sometimes to do electrical fault finding on a bike when you can't see a thing & relying other persons skills to do it for you.

I have the utmost respect for you and Medo for all your help. I fully appreciate the fact that not all problems can be sorted online and that you have both helped me out as much as possible, which I am extremely grateful for :)

I will be calling the roadside assistance first thing Saturday morning in order for them to transport the bike to my local Yam service...and hopefully will have some sort of verdict by close of play. I will keep you guys informed ;)

As usual I'm late with reply

Hope you'll be having your bike running very soon with minimum cost of repaire

Right...well it's not looking good, in fact it's piss poor!!! Just got off the phone to the dealer...the ECU is dead :(

I've been quoted approx �435 for the ECU only...does this sound right?

Should I start scouring ebay or just front up and pay the barstwards for a new one? The dealer told me that I would need to buy a new ignition set with it as a used ECU will not work with my current immobilisers security codes. Nor can either be programmed to suit the other.

Time to make a post in the 'How reliable is your XT' thread me thinks.

:( :( :(

ps. the bike is an '06 XTX. I'm really crap when it comes to searching for new/old bike parts online, grateful if those that can post some links to sites that have what I need.

also, do I need anything other than the ECU when it comes to the swap...like wiring looms/etc?

thanks
Denny

bad news if ECU is malfunctioning

don't know about fair price for the new unit but I have a look at some yamaha papers and found that when ECU unit is to be replaced there is no need for immobilizer replacement ... Kev ?

http://free-du.t-com.hr/medo/yam.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denny (Post 128970)

I just fitted a brand new 06 ECU (01) to my 2009 XTX, bought from the UK for 105 Pounds a week ago. So where do they get 435 Pounds from?

You can not recode a used ECU to run on another XT660, so you need a new one.

Tell your Yamaha dealer to use the part number 90891-30032 shown in the Photo it cost 105 Pounds.

Read here.
http://www.xt660.com/showpost.php?p=128913&postcount=59

Ok guys, that's really helpfull, and good to know that I can get the part cheaper!

Just to clear things up, the dealer said I need to order the ECU according to my bikes chasis number. Is this correct, or can I just order an '06 XTX ECU?

*edit*

I just got off the phone to the dealer...he told me the part number is 5VK-8591A-01 which he said is the CDI. Not sure if that's the same as an ECU but the part numbers differ?

He also told me to change the 'rolanti' (turkish, don't know the english) which has part number 5VK-81950-40

Thanks
Denny