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kev's 07 Dyno run
This was yesterdays Dyno run. DNA stage 1 & 2 filters, power Commander & Carbon can slip ons, snorkel removed, AIS blocked, O2 Eliminator.
The map is not finished I spent 2 hours on the dyno, I just needed to know where the fueling was & I agree with Freez the new ECU's are very different to the 04 & 06 ECU's, it runs way to rich up top, even with the AIS blocked off. The red line is the corrected power commander fuel map the blue is with a Zero map (Yamaha fuel map), I need to sort some problems I have with the low end & then get it back on the dyno & am sure I will get some better low end results. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...180108Dyno.jpg |
Dyno results
I was sent this Dyno result this week with a very nice power gain. A before & after run
kev Fuel mod DNA stage 1 & 2 filters Mivv Exhaust http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/XT660X-1.jpg |
Hi Kev. I'm a bit fick when it comes to reading dyno results but I am interested. Am I correct in saying that the red line is the before and the orange is the after? Also, what do the blue lines represent? Is that peak power showing 46 HP?
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Red and Orange lines will be HP and the blue lines will be torque.
Good results there Kev. Man, you must try and get the XT on a Dynojet dyno with the tuninglink software. In the 2 hours you spend making a handmade map, you can make about 3 to 4 different maps with the tuninglink software, and try all of them to see which one works better and what A/F ratio is best. At what A/F ratio are you running this bike at peak HP and towards max RPM. PM me if you want to keep it quite. |
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http://www.xt660.com/showpost.php?p=44180&postcount=5 I am going to the dealer in 1 hour to try & sort my bike out. In the high end rev range I am running 13:1 |
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Before: Mivv exhaust co:38 Without snorkle Top speed:167 km/h After: Mivv exhaust Dna stage 1&2 filters Kev mod set on -8� co:23 Without snorkle Top speed:166 km/h What dou you think about the "co" setting? Thanks man,:) |
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As your bike was run on the Dyno & the Air/fuel ratio was set leave the CO1 where it is. As the Dyno sheet shows more air & fuel = MORE POWER. Your torque curve is quite different with your Mivv exhaust compaired to the Carbon Company Cans, you seem to have better spread of torque at higher rpms & the CCC give more torque lower down. I would put the 1kph loss to that ham burger you had eaten before the top speed test (only joking) It could be wind resistance & many other factors, don't worry about it. Your results are very good. |
Kev, how is this guy mapping the bike?
Before you start, make 100% sure the PCIII's throttle position is set up correctly. I like to pull the throttle tight, not open, just tight, when I set 0% and then run the bike in say 3rd or 4th, and set 100% throttle with the throttle fully open. Set this with the tuninglink software, not the software that comes with the PCIII. When you use the tuninglink software, use 4th gear for 60, 80 and 100% throttle. For 40% throttle use 3rd gear and 2nd for 20% throttle. 10% is mapped in 1st gear. This is with role on state on the dyno. Then do 2, 5, 10 and 20% again in 1st gear, with steady state on the dyno software. Start with 2000 RPM if you can, but once you have one right, copy the 2000 RPM setting to 1750 RPM Also, try running the following A/F ratio's For less than 20% throttle run the bike around 13:1, then from 20 to 60, run it at 13.3: and form 80 to 100%, run it at around 13.5:1. that will give you a nice boost in peak RPM power. Let me know how this works out for you. PS. If you can get me the settings the guy is using to control the load. I can't remember what you call it, but it is a value like 0.00250 or 0.0450 or something like that. You get 3 settings like that and they control the load on the dyno and how quickly it releases and starts. Also, don't hook the spark plug RPM pickup over the HT lead, run it off the trigger wire to the coil. Might have to change the RPM setting on the software as it might reads double actual RPM when you run it off the trigger wire. |
I will give your tunning advice a go & let you know the out come, now that I am using the link software those figures can be easily got. I will get the spec's you need from the set up, I know what you mean.
Basically Freez I was trying to get the fuelling right low down & spent alot of time playing around there, the dyno link software was leading us all over the place because of the ECU being faulty & in the end could not set the fuelling right between 2500 to 5000 RPM at 10 to 20% throttle. I loaded one of your 07 fuel maps this morning with the new ECU & had both filters installed, snorkel removed with standard pipes & it worked just fine, it felt good all the way through with almost no surge 98% good, a fine tune on the dyno to my bike & it would be perfect. When I tried the same map on the last ECU it was way to rich low down & ran worse, it felt much better using a Zero map & the dyno proved this when I had a dyno run a few days later. Below is the Faulty ECU mapping, as you can see what I mean, being to rich low down as the link software wanted the fuel setting leaned out. The only thing the air/fuel ratio kept moving all over the place. The red ringed area should be the other way around in postive figures not negitive. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ltyfuelmap.jpg |
Just got my bike dynoed.
And got 51.9hp @ 5863rpm and 67.9m.N @ 4601,the mechanic reckons that there are about two more neddies in there if I richen it up a bit,the fuelling is at 18 and he said that 14 was optimum.
It was a free dyno day at the local Kawasaki dealer,they did about thirty Kawasakis,mine was the only interloper,many were impressed by the torque and the bike in general. http://aycu35.webshots.com/image/446...7002579_fs.jpg http://aycu17.webshots.com/image/450...8203233_fs.jpg |
Very nice results. Your fuel/Air ratio is to lean & needs to be richer to get more power, 13:1 is the best for top end power.
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How do I do that?
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send your map to Kev, Kev will modify it and send it back to you, all you have to do is reload the new map. :bling:
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I don't have a map,I have the Kev mod and the filter set and the obligatory Staintunes.
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Sorry zzzak, I don't know what I was thinking :100::eusa_wall::whip2::catfight:, you are quite correct. It needs to be made richer not leaner. I have corrected my reply. Turn up the fuel mod clockwise to lower the temp sender reading, by a futher 5 degrees. |
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Thanks Kev.
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just be very careful when you take the Air fuel ratio some dynos give you.
Can you describe the A/F ratio probe these guys used to measure the exhaust gas? Normally, over here by me, you get the dynojet type that uses a thin copper tube that is inserted about 800mm or deeper into the exhaust and it is connected to a vacuum pump and filter. The exhaust gas is then sucked out of the header pipe and sampled. The other guys here uses a normal A/F ratio meter with a lambda probe that is connected to a short tube and this tube is stuck into the back of the silencer with the O2 sensor sticking out on the side. You can actually see the tip of the sensor if you look down the tube. The problem with the last setup is that the lamda sensor detects oxygen and to get a good reading you have to prevent the sensor from detecting fresh clean air. Hanging it at the back of the exhaust means jack and it will give you false readings. It will make the sensor read way leaner that what it actually reads For the life of me, I cannot see how a XT660 will run so smoothly on the dyno when it is running as lean as 18:1. Usually if you hit around 15:1 A/F ratio the power output starts dropping off and around 16:1 the bike will start producing erratic power curves with spikes and dips all over the place. You must sample the exhaust gas from the header pipe, not the back of the silencer, or the results are bogus. Even a small leak in the exhaust pipe can throw the lamda sensor way off. |
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Set you CO1 reading -5 to -15 below the actual dash reading, take the reading with the mod turned all the way anti clockwise then turn the mod clockwise between -5 & -15, that's if the dyno readings were correct. If your bike is running fine & is not surging & running like a pig at all rpms as it should with the readings you posted, I would leave the mod where you had it. |
Thanks,I'll have a play around.
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Hi There,
My bike has been on the dyno today. The tuning guy has created a new map for the powercommander, using the tuninglink software. Af ratio has been set on 13,2 Bike 2006 model, Purchased (new) in april 2007 Now 12000 km, akrapovic (with modified db killers), dna filter, k&Nfilter, powercommander. gear ratio 15 48 The bike runs very smooth now Output 52 rearwheel ponies and 67 nm torq http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3166/rollonvv4.jpg |
very nice gain.
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What would be the standard amount of rearwheel ponies?
46 or something? |
Final results for the XT660X to Raptor + Stage 1 Hot Cam conversion.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...alresults1.jpg A before & after dyno run with just the Raptor 700 Cylinder 102mm & 11:1 piston kit. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...onlyPeekHP.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...igboreonly.jpg The difference between a Stage 1 Hot Cam & a XT660X with the big bore kit. http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...etweencams.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...HotcamXTX1.jpg As you can see from the results, the Raptor big bore kit offers a big gain in torque & HP over the standard XT660. Add a stge 1 Hot Cam & you have great mid to top end power, but with a loss in HP & torque low down. As I have said before big HP does not mean the motor will be good across the whole RPM range, you need to decide how you ride & where you want the HP & torque. If you ride 80% of the time below 5500RPM then the big bore is the way to go 3 more HP at peak with a big gain in torque, if you ride on the stopper all the time the Stage 1 & big bore is for you with just around 57HP at peak. If you are going to fit just a Stage 1 Hot Cam, you would be looking at around 4.63 HP gain at peak power & a gain of 7.14 HP at the rev limiter. But with a loss of 3.98 at the bottom of the rev range. |
You know me Kev, I am not such a techno head when it comes to these charts, they look pretty impressive, I admit, but my simple mind only asks these 2 questions:
on an open road, what is the top speed difference before and after and... on a full tank how many miles you get in consumption now that you have a more powerful engine compared to what you used to get before the conversion? Thanks for clarifying. Fran |
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Damn!!!
I am shocked at how much Torque and low down power you loose with the stage 1 cam. Normally when you add a stage 1 cam to a raptor 700, it gains quite a bit of midrange power over the stock raptor cam. It seems the XT cam is a torque monster, which is great for riding in traffic and off-road. I have to be honest. I love low down torque and I hardly ride over 140 km/h so for me, the raptor cams seem to be a big disappointment for my riding requirements. Kev, where you able to measure the cams before installing them? Would love to know what differences in duration and lift there is between the two cams. Next question. According to the dyno, doing porting on the raptor head will add around 2HP. The new 08 model raptors have revised heads from the factory and they make 2HP more than the previous models. Maybe, going for a ported head with the stock xt cam might be the best overall option with both torque and HP. It might not make as much top end power as the stage 1 cam, but it should but it much closer at the top end and keep or even improve midrange power of the stock XT cam. I will post some pics of new custom intake valve I had specially made for 2 raptor heads I am working on. |
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I want to see if I can press the stage 1 sprocket off the cam & advance the cam timing to get back the bottom end. I will first need to degree the cam to see how many degrees I want to move it by. I will do this sometime when I have time. After testing the stage 1 cam I am not even going to test the stage 2 cam, as I have said before I want more torque with a bit more HP & was happy with the 2mm bigger bore with 11;1 piston result. If I can get 2 to 3 more HP from the head & throttle body I will be back to the 56HP mark with the big bore & XTX Cam. The results Freez were not far off from what we expected, except the bigger bore gave alot more torque then I thought & did not expect the torque loss with the stage 1 cam going by the Raptor results. As you say Freez we need to start to look in other areas for that HP. :sleep01: I have out lined my next mods in another thread & am looking for the next 2hp or more from the throttle body & head. I got some quotes today on porting & +1mm inlet valves, I will sorce a 2nd head for this mod. If I did not do these mods & show the mods with full details we would be always wondering how would a XT660 go with different mods. We are now a little closer to under standing what the XT660 motor likes. |
I would be interested to see what you find with the +2 throttle body.
Not sure if I told you, but I had one made up and gained only about 1 to 1.5 HP at very low and very top end RPM. No gains at HP peak. Was actually very disappointed with the results. At this stage I am not sure why I did not get an all round gain like the guys in the USA claim. I have to add that since the last time I dyno tuned the raptor and after fitting the +2 TB, the bike did ingest a lot of dirt from a broken air cleaner and the intake valves did take a beating. When I checked the valve clearances on the intake valves there where nothing. In fact it was actually keeping the intakes from seating correctly and creating a good seal. Also, it was not an exact copy of the TB they rave about in the USA, but it was +2mm bigger. I am also not sure of the high altitude I am at messes with the bigger TB gains, since the air here is much less dense. It might be that the bike lost 2HP and the bigger TB put it back, making it look like I gained nothing, but let's see what you get. |
Just one thing I forgot to add.
There has to be a lot more power in this motor. With the mods you run, except for the stage 2 cam, which I think only adds about 1 or 2 HP more than the stage 1 you are running now, I think we still have a lot to gain. The one raptor that I built with a ported head, same size valves as the XT, stage 2 cam, 11:1 pistons, stock bore and stroke (same as your 700XT, custom made dual pipes, open airbox and bigger air cleaner with PCIII and ignition was pushing out 56HP on my dyno. As you know, my dyno reads about 12% lower than what it should so this quad should be running around 64HP at the coast easy. The Xt in theory should be able to get to the same HP if not more, since the quad has massive rear wheels with a lot more weight to reduce HP output. |
Don't worry I am looking for that extra ridable HP, but most important thing to me is the torque then HP. At 50 Ft- lbs this bike is so nice to ride it brings a smile to face through the whole rev range.
I wish the Raptor boys posted more torque curves so I could see their results with mods over 60HP. It is no use having lots of HP with no torque low down for my type of riding. Freez have you got the torque curve for the 64HP raptor with the stage 2 cam? |
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marjani
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Expert XT-Moto http://www.xt660.com/images/ranks_helmets/supporter.png http://www.xt660.com/images/ranks_helmets/red_4.png Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: holland Posts: 145 http://www.xt660.com/smooth/reputati...tation_pos.gif dyno results customized Trinity 2in1/TB+2/BSM 2in2 hereby the new dyno results. Explanation green line: Tritity 2in1 header with customised linkpipe/collector - Micron silencer - +2mm Throttle Body (+2TB) 62.96HP 72.09 Torque blue line: 2in2 +4mm OTR headers - BSM silencer and linkpipe. 63.31HP 75.68 Torque red line: 2in2 +4mm OTR headers - BSM silencer and linkpipe - +2TB 66.71HP 77.52 Torque The facts: +2TB The +2TB I can really recommend! It gave me an +3 HP improvement and a bit more torque. Trinity 2in1 ( http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?...hlight=trinity) The customized 2in1 system will give you gain improvements, weight savings and buttom clearance. But for the best results the 2in2 I can recommend. The 'Rally Raid' XT by OTR, which has a 104mm bigbore+OTR 2in1+PP head+OTR cam, has got about 63HP according to an article I've read. Mine XT has also almost 63HP with a 103mm bigbore, but with a +2TB. Therefore the 2in1 customized Trinity is much better. Attached Thumbnails http://www.xt660.com/attachment.php?...1&d=1237622990 |
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1841/xtdyno.th.jpg
Got My bike back from dyno. Leo Vince (no Db-killers), K&N Stage 1 and DNA Stage 2, PowerCommander, AIS blocked Bike runs nice and pulls smoothly to revlimit. I�m pleased from the results. |
here dyno test is very expensive, but my bike have ported head, thin head gasket, +2TB, KN filter and dna stage2 filter.My first test to my bike at 5000 km and top speed max 160 with two person then my mechanic ported head, thin gasket, +2TB and KN filter then I tested with two person, max speed is 170 but now wind :) after I remove the snorkel and check the co +14
only me (Im 85 kg ) 176km max speed. but low and midle range not bad and not good...Last I try to DNA stage2 filter with snorkel, now low and mid range ok upper very good, its going to wheel up first and 2.nd gear change now its like a bull :) now I have stage 2 camshaft I can not dream it when I put it on maybe I will go dyno test when I finish all mods and I share it |
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First is the most common build we do many of Rap 700 Dual exhaust Powercommander Intake kit 11:1 CP piston 47 mm throttle body (+3mm) Hotcams stage 3 STOCK HEAD DYNO TUNED http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ucks/Scan1.jpg Full build raptor 700 11:1 compression HDD5050 camshaft .500/.460 lift 47mm throttle body FCI intake kit +1/+1mm ss Ported head Power commander, ignition controller Dual exhaust /mufflers Btw my dyno is nicknamed "THE HEART BREAKER" http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...s/001-44-1.jpg |
another
Raptor 700 STOCK PISTON AND CAMSHAFT STOCK PORTING +3mm throttle body 47mm power commander ignition controller dual exhaust, intake kit http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...cks/002-24.jpg |
Some nice runs there dl700.
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