fuel pump tested and working perfectly

should i remove the fuel pump and check the filter ...in case this is offering resistance..i see you have shown this can be done ..and i note to be carefull and not break the houseing as it is expensive..i am not sure which one is the FI relay to check it ?

How did you test the fuel pump? Did you remove the connector and connect a battery up to it (+ve to the red/blue terminal and -ve to the black) and then checked to see if it operated?

What you can do in addition to that is either connect it to the battery with a 10A fuse in the positive feed you're using and see if it blows, or if you have a multimeter that will measure up to 20A, connect the feed through that and see what current it is drawing. A pump may well operate, but if there is an internal problem (electrical or mechanical) it will draw a lot more current than it should do.

The FI relay is located here:

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psvizgdxoi.jpg

It can be unplugged and tested with a multimeter set to measure resistance. Connect the brown wire's terminal to positive probe and the red/blue wire's terminal to the negative probe. There should be NO continuity at all (the multimeter should read 1). If there is any continuity the relay is knackered.

If there is no continuity after the above test, next check the continuity again but this time with a battery positive connected to the red/black wire's terminal on the relay and the battery negative to the blue/red wire's terminal. There should now be continuity between red/blue and brown. If there isn't the relay is knackered.

Be careful in the above tests to differentiate between blue/red (blue with red trace) wires and red/blue (red with blue trace) wires!!

Yes that is how I tested the pump with the tank detached from the bike entirely and pumped the fuel into a container I stopped and started the pump a few times it ran well and quietlly..I will test it again useing your suggested method.and test the relay also...thank you very much again

Hi the pump is drawing 8amps....there is no continuity across the brown and red blue wires..couldn't do the other test as I don't have a probe/ connecter small enough

According to the specs I have for the pump, the current draw should be more like 5A when directly connected to a 12V supply (less when the engine is running and system voltage is 13.2-14.0V).

• Operating pressure: 15-90psi
• Flow Rate: 160 L/h at 43PSI/3bar @ 13.5V
• Current: 5.0A @ 12V

Bear in mind that fuses, although marked with the current that they will continuously pass (at a standard temperature) without blowing (continuous rating), it is still good practice not to allow the continuous current to exceed 75% of the fuse's rated value to accommodate momentary current surges that might cause the fuse to fatigue over time or blow unnecessarily (nuisance blow). So a measured 8A may over a short test period on the bench may well blow the bike�s fuse in operation as there will be other electrical loads, plus anything that causes increased resistance in the circuit such as the pump getting hot in use, or poor/weak connections/earths may will tip it over the edge.

There only five things in the circuit supplied by fuse 5 are that could be at fault:

• Fuel pump relay
• Fuel pump
• Fuel Injector
• Diagnostic socket (draws no current unless plugged in or earthed)
• ECU (nominal current)

Now if you�ve thoroughly checked the wiring (particularly that to the fuel injector), you�ve tested the relay as best you can and there�s nothing shorting out the diagnostic plug +ve to ground, then the fuel pump is probably the most likely candidate? They are not expensive if you just buy the internal pump, open up the casing and replace it. There are plenty on ebay for between �20 and �40.

relay checked all ok injector tested reading 12ohms.so ok...done another pump bench test this time i made sure there was enough fuel to draw through..reading 11.3 amps...then the fuel ran out and it was reading 8 amps as in yesterdays test sucking air...put an in line 10amp fuse but it did not blow even at the 11.3 reading

I'd be mighty suspicious of a 5A rated pump (at 43psi) drawing 11.3A to deliver fuel and remember, on the test bench, that's at low pressure - nothing like 43psi! When the pump is in the fuel circuit and flowing via the fuel pressure regulator the load is going to be increased further.

screwed up...reading actually pulling less than 1 amp bench test...got the point in decimal point in the wrong place.....re checked relay and blew it ..so ordering a new one �70 ...dam it dam it..so fed up ordered a pump as well...will fit both and then we shall see..prior to this i tested the bike again switched it on ..fuse blew...removed relay switched on fuse ok ..put relay back on fuse blew...does this tell you anything?

It probably suggests that the relay was knackered?

If I were you I'd replace the relay first, particularly as it's easy to do, and leave the pump as its is (especially as it seems to be drawing the correct current now). At least then you'll be able to work out which component was/is at fault. If you replace both at the same time and it's cured, then you'll never know which one was causing the trouble.