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  # 1  
Old 03-03-17, 22:45
greatescape greatescape is offline
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Open chains....?

Looking online to buy a new chain, I see some are described as 'open'... does this mean they come with a split link...? And how long a chain do I need for the Ten. ..? Steve
  # 2  
Old 04-03-17, 00:07
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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'Open' just means that the chain is not endless; it need needs either a rivet or split link. You can usually specify which type of link you want (or if you want endless for that matter).

There is a lot of groundless scare-mongering about split links. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them on a 50 hp single provided they are fitted correctly.

The Z needs a 110 link 520 chain.
  # 3  
Old 04-03-17, 18:16
jo75 jo75 is offline
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I have a tool if you need it steve,just put a new one on mine today..
  # 4  
Old 06-03-17, 09:21
Petenz Petenz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades View Post

There is a lot of groundless scare-mongering about split links. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them on a 50 hp single provided they are fitted correctly.
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  # 5  
Old 15-03-17, 04:11
66T 66T is offline
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Sorry Pleiades, don't agree on this one... I had a '96 Tenere that spat an o-ring clip-link after riding 1500km on a trip up north. Riding hope on the blacktop, the engine went from 5000rpm to zero in a nanosecond as the chain bunched up, the carrier, chainguard and sidecover were smashed, and I was worried the cases were done. But that was a very tough engine. It was still running like new when it was sold. I've never used a clip-link since. And won't. As I've stated before, I don't run a tight chain, so bad stuff happens sometimes.

But each to their own, I say!
  # 6  
Old 15-03-17, 06:22
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CaptMoto CaptMoto is offline
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Any chain can get chewed up split or not split. However these bikes run a higher risk of getting your chain spat out and cause all kinds of part chewing damage, all you need is for the cush drive to be badly worn so that there is a lot of play when you engage the 1st gear from neutral and a combination of a semi worn loose chain and you're asking for trouble.

Seriously this is one single cylinder with a lot of poke in the low rev, you need to make sure at all times that you have a good cush drive and that your chain is maintained (cleaned and oiled, that's where investing in a Scott oiler or similar is a must) and that you never get too much play out of your chain therefore you run it at the intended tension.

I've learnt this the hard way by disregarding those maintenance tips and commuting day and night in all weathers and then one day *SNAP* the chain got wedged so badly in the swing arm, the bike ended up on the back of the recovery truck.
  # 7  
Old 15-03-17, 17:52
Pleiades Pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66T View Post
Sorry Pleiades, don't agree on this one... I had a '96 Tenere that spat an o-ring clip-link after riding 1500km on a trip up north. Riding hope on the blacktop, the engine went from 5000rpm to zero in a nanosecond as the chain bunched up, the carrier, chainguard and sidecover were smashed, and I was worried the cases were done. But that was a very tough engine. It was still running like new when it was sold. I've never used a clip-link since. And won't. As I've stated before, I don't run a tight chain, so bad stuff happens sometimes.

But each to their own, I say!
Indeed. You can fit what you like at the end of the day based on what you personally perceive the risks/advantages to be.

What I would add though is, for every one scare story/scary experience there is regarding a failed split link there are tens of dozens of instances where chains have just plain broken, and nowhere near the split link, or rivet link for that matter. Over the last thirty or so years, I can safely say I have certainly come across many many more riders stranded with busted endless or rivet link chains than stuck with a split link that's failed. In fact I've probably been witness to more stranded BMWs with broken shaft drive components than split link failures.

Bad luck can happen whatever type of final drive you have fitted!
  # 8  
Old 15-03-17, 18:48
greatescape greatescape is offline
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Time to own up to being dumb here......using Jo's excellent motion Pro tool to push out a rivet on the old chain, I then attached my new chain and pulled it through. I greased up the joining link...slid on the O rings both sides. All good so far, but when it came to fitting the link plate and split link it just wouldn't fit...no matter how hard I pressed or squeezed. The split link just about fitted on its own. Never had this problem back in 'olden' times!. As the split link looked more substantial than the ones of old, I decided you didn't need the link plate as well so just fitted the split link on its own. ..and I have to say it looked and felt fine. LUCKILY my tiny brain was telling me it's not right, and when I read up I found it was a known hassle with 'O' ring chains and you need to press the side plate on . This I did ....job done! . And the Tenere is so much nicer to ride with a new chain and sprockets! Steve
  # 9  
Old 15-03-17, 21:50
cca cca is offline
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For anyone who will decide to go with split link, degrease small part of the outside plate where clip will be attached and put a little rtv silicone. Very very useful.
  # 10  
Old 19-04-17, 08:10
Replicant Replicant is offline
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Where did you end up getting your chain from Steve?

Last time I used OTR but they took 4 weeks to send it and I don't trust using them as their service is abysmal.
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