Looking online to buy a new chain, I see some are described as 'open'... does this mean they come with a split link...? And how long a chain do I need for the Ten. ..? Steve

'Open' just means that the chain is not endless; it need needs either a rivet or split link. You can usually specify which type of link you want (or if you want endless for that matter).

There is a lot of groundless scare-mongering about split links. There is absolutely nothing wrong with them on a 50 hp single provided they are fitted correctly.

The Z needs a 110 link 520 chain.

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I have a tool if you need it steve,just put a new one on mine today..

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Harley Davidson..
The easyest way to turn gasoline into noise with out the side efect of horse power...

Sorry Pleiades, don't agree on this one... I had a '96 Tenere that spat an o-ring clip-link after riding 1500km on a trip up north. Riding hope on the blacktop, the engine went from 5000rpm to zero in a nanosecond as the chain bunched up, the carrier, chainguard and sidecover were smashed, and I was worried the cases were done. But that was a very tough engine. It was still running like new when it was sold. I've never used a clip-link since. And won't. As I've stated before, I don't run a tight chain, so bad stuff happens sometimes.

But each to their own, I say!

Any chain can get chewed up split or not split. However these bikes run a higher risk of getting your chain spat out and cause all kinds of part chewing damage, all you need is for the cush drive to be badly worn so that there is a lot of play when you engage the 1st gear from neutral and a combination of a semi worn loose chain and you're asking for trouble.

Seriously this is one single cylinder with a lot of poke in the low rev, you need to make sure at all times that you have a good cush drive and that your chain is maintained (cleaned and oiled, that's where investing in a Scott oiler or similar is a must) and that you never get too much play out of your chain therefore you run it at the intended tension.

I've learnt this the hard way by disregarding those maintenance tips and commuting day and night in all weathers and then one day *SNAP* the chain got wedged so badly in the swing arm, the bike ended up on the back of the recovery truck.

Indeed. You can fit what you like at the end of the day based on what you personally perceive the risks/advantages to be.

What I would add though is, for every one scare story/scary experience there is regarding a failed split link there are tens of dozens of instances where chains have just plain broken, and nowhere near the split link, or rivet link for that matter. Over the last thirty or so years, I can safely say I have certainly come across many many more riders stranded with busted endless or rivet link chains than stuck with a split link that's failed. In fact I've probably been witness to more stranded BMWs with broken shaft drive components than split link failures.

Bad luck can happen whatever type of final drive you have fitted!

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Best advice I can give you is buy a DiD chain !

There are many kinds as you will see and you can just pick one up on ebay for instance BUT they are amazing. On the triumph they last for 30K km. On my Kawasaki ninja roughly said 15K km and also on there tenere sufficient lifespan !

Make certain to properly clean them though. If I clean the chain with petrol then it disintegrates and otherwise it should do just great !