Hi Team, guys Im having problems starting my 05 xtx.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to test the stator wires (3x yellow or white wires from the stator), without the bike running?
I know i could test them to ground to see if theyve shorted but didnt know if you could check the actual resistance.

I think i have a problem with my stator pickup (again!) and have read here that the ohms should read 192-288 ohms. what setting should I have my meter set at for these values? its digital and has 2k 20k 2000k etc ranges.

I changed the stator from another bike only about 50 klms ago (a year ago) and now it looks like this one has died too! I checked the codes and the CPS code came up (but that could have been from last time I changed it).

the bikes sat for a year since last ride. It went fine for about 10kms but then slowly died and wouldnt start. I got it home and it started again but would run really rough over about 2-3000rpm. I checked the tank and it had a fair amount of rust and crud in there so I cleaned it out and flushed the fuel filter screen inside the fuel pump. reassembled the lot but the sparks totally gone now.

tomorrow I'll check the connectors from ECU to CPS. at first I thought the Spark plug had died but the spark just seemed dim and would only fire from time to time. Also noticed that if i flicked the run switch off and on while holding the start button I would get the hint of a spark but then nothing.

so im thinking, check the CPS connectors, check the CPS ohms, check the actual stator.

i just checked the crankshaft position sensor and its reading .245 ohms at 2k setting on the meter. do you guys think this is ok?
i checked the stator coils for grounding and all 3 yellow wires were open with no grounding.
coil reads 25.7 ohms set at 2000 ohms reading from the plug cap to the + coil terminal.

maybe the cps has moved due to a loose bolt or has picked up some rubbish from somewhere...

any advice greatly appreciated guys. theres no suitable mechanics here!

245 Ohms is about right. Acceptable range is 192 - 288 Ohms. (although you are actually measuring Kilo-Ohms with the meter set on the 2K scale)

This is not right for the stator coils though - it is too high. It should be in the range of 0.224 - 0.336 Ohms

Is is not unheard of for this to happen, or even for the mounting to break. I have had this happen on two occasions on Jap singles (not on an XT mind - both Hondas).

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sorry mate, my mistake. i meant I tested the ignition coil for ohms not the stator coils. the actual stator coils measure 01.3ohms at 200k setting, and all 3 wires read the same.

I rechecked all wiring and swapped the plug out for a new one and got it to fire up and idle, but soon as i tried any throttle it would die and if I got the revs up to say 2000rpm it would backfire badly.

I then removed the stator cover and found a small buildup of minute metal filings on one side of the pickup but not on the actual round pickup head. everything seems secure in there.
when I wiped around the inside of the stator magnet there was some grey buildup like dust that I attributed to alloy residue or oil contaminate buildup. nothing looked bad or felt loose so im reassembling it today.

I dont know if the magnets loose power or the crank nut can work itself loose damaging the key (like on the counterweight shaft) on these bikes, but it maybe something to consider...

maybe I should recheck the valve clearances but that was done about 50kms ago. another thing is plugs are really hard to find here in the Philippines so I'm using my old iridium plug or locally purchased NGK CR8EGP or Denso U27ESR-N. both plugs have worked fine in the past with the NGK being closest to the correct plug.

think im running out of options!
ecu fail/injector fail/poorly seated or worn little black o-ring in the fuel pump housing that separates the 2 plastic cases (had that one before!), so many things to consider. and no fault codes showing.

thanks for the input Pleiades...much appreciated!

Have you checked/tested the TPS?

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thanks for the input mate. I checked the tps, its ok. even swapped one from a running engine and reset it.
I pulled the fuel tank apart and found the brand new fuel pump i fitted a year ago still had the old screen in it. (the ebay replacement fuel pump came with a huge sreen that wouldnt fit. damn-forgot about that!. I wacked another fuel pump in it and its ran sweet! for 10 mins last night then this morning it wouldnt start aftyer fitting some original rear turn signals!

now im getting error 33 on the dash, earlier 12 and 33 were flashing.
33 relates to the coil, 12 is the cps, again, but I managed to clear it.

so now im back to the bike cranking with no spark. (fuel pump is engaging).

I've tried deleting the codes but ones stuck in there!
(when i bring up number 61 in diag mode it shows 0 faults. I then scroll down to 61 and number 1 comes up. (I guess thats code 33 its showing on startup- coil related).

am i doing something wrong? Im sure Im following all the instructions posted here correctly but just having no luck!

Ive checked the ohm readings between the pins of the cps (with the 3 wire stator plug and cps plug unplugged).
i'm getting @2k setting on my digital meter: .247 @20k 0.23 and at 200k 0.17. so im guessing there is no cps fault. sorry im not real flash at using meters! (also no grounding between either pin and the frame).

I'm really wondering whats causing this. all the wiring and plugs all over the loom look fine. one pin on the voltage regulator looked a little burnt but that shouldn't cause the cps issue.

last thing to consider: a bad ECU or immobilizer fail?

this just seems to get worse! I pulled out the fuses & checked them visually before but without a test light. yet when i tested with a test light an hour ago i found one dead fuse. i replaced it (it wasnt blown just looked a bit powdery on the legs causing a bad contact.
fired the bike up and it ran fine for a minute or so.
i shut it down to try clearing the error code 33, but no luck there.
I tried starting it again and got it to fire but ran roughly and kept backfiring when trying to get the revs up.

I dropped the plug out and it was pretty carboned up (not a very old plug but the carbon looked fresh).

tried a new plug but no spark at all now!

I started thinking maybe both coils ive been using are bad. yet all tested out with the same ohms readings. and I know 2 came of running bikes.

I unplugged the coil wires and checked them with a test light and theres current coming in with the key turned on. when i hit the start button the test light fluctuates. weird
I connected the coil back up and dropped the cap off to check the spark going to the engine via the HT lead, no spark even there.

ive tried 2 different plug caps and leads along with 2 brand new spark plugs.

how can i have power at the coil and yet no spark at the plug?

this is really irritating me!

If there is an intermittent supply to the LT side of the coil (your fluctuating test light) the coil will not energise. Same applies if the voltage is too low, or there is insufficient current flow (bad connections etc.) You really need to test the LT supply voltage with a multimeter and the LT earth resistance with a multimeter.

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