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XT660Z T�n�r� Tech Section Tyres, Mods, Luggage & Long distance preparation |
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Coolant on Tenere
Hi guys, due to the crap nature of the coolant reservoir and the fact that its pretty much impossible to actually see the level, i got a bit paranoid and topped up the coolant a little.
Went out on the bike for 20 mins and came back and when i put side stand down and came off, coolant came p***ing out of the bottom, out through the plastic skid plate until it stopped bar a few drips. Obviously i`ve overfilled it slightly(I can now just see the level bobbing about about 2 cms above max level - and also strangely around the filler cap depending on the angle of the bike, both on the x and y axis). Is this a cause for concern? Should i try and remove some of the excess coolant from the filler cap? And if so, whats the easiest way?Siphon etc? Or can I relax and assume that any excess coolant will keep p***ing out the bottom until the max level has been reached? ie nothing is going to go "Boom" if i leave it as is? Any info will be appreciated. **Also, whats the best way to clean the parts that are now starting to rust due to bad winter(and being covered and not being used for long periods). Basically the front area of the bike, where the horn and radiator are located, and also the side stand spring etc. Are there any tips to clean this up and maintain it properly? Ryben |
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You could siphon/syringe the excess coolant out if you're fussy, but it'll be OK to leave it, the excess will just be forced out when the engine's hot from the vent hose you mention. Checking the level in the dark while shining a torch or inspection lamp on the reservoir is the easiest way to get it right.
As for cleaning, use Muc-off or something similar and wash with fresh water, then coat everything liberally in ACF-50. I wouldn't use a pressure washer in the area you talk about because of the proximity of electrical gear, particularly the rectifier. |
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might just leave it, as it maybe tricky and fussy to try and syringe it out to get it to the max level mark. As long as its OK to leave until the bike gets rid of the excess thats fine, although just had a thought....coolant isn't corrosive or anything? IE its OK to have it dribbling out the base of the bike short term until i get used to reading the levels etc and topping up only when required?
I`ll try your Muc off and ACF-50 tips this weekend. I`m not too keen on pressure washers due to tales of wet rectifiers and washed away cush drive bearings and prefer to do it with old fashioned elbow grease. ***Also any tips for the spokes as surprisingly a few are starting to rust a bit? |
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Coolant at the concentration in the Z shouldn't cause any corrosion problems, but I'd rinse off any painted parts just to be sure. More of a worry might be if it dribbles out while your at some lights and leaves a slippy patch on the road just in front of your back tyre! |
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Be careful, its deadly to animals and humans if drunk and has a somewhat sweet taste. A cat or dog would lick it up. Not really a problem for your bike but won't do paint on frame any good over time. Best to remove the panal, pop the top off and put a corner of a clean rag in the bottle. Leave it to soak the liquid up and it will become saturated with coolant by capillary action. That's the alternative to sucking or syringing. then clean the area with a good rinse in clean water. Another easy way is use a washing up liquid bottle empty of course. put a tube over the end. squash some of the air out of bottle and hold it squashed. Pop the other end of tube in the reservoir, let go of the bottle and hey presto, sucky suck suck. Actually this process isn't really sucking, its making use of atmospheric pressure to push the liquid into the bottle to replace the vaccuum. Happy sucking Al. Al. |
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To take fluid out use a turkey Baster, cheap as chips from any supermarket.
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![]() http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/e...cle/002751.htm Apparently a teaspoon full can kill a cat!? |
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damn and it looks so tasty....like a melted raspberry slushie...
![]() but thankyou for all the tips.Might try the clean rag or baster(syringe), as I dont think it would take much to reduce the level to correct amounts. |
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You should really only check the cooling system levels when the engine is ice cold.
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Click here to join the XT Supporter's scheme Mods that I have done to my XTX's My 04 XTX Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil / [ My 07 XTX Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator / My 09 XTX 59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946 ![]() |
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