blue/green wire on sidestand switch is comming from ECU and black wire should be connected to the bikes frame, which is negative pole of complete electrical circuit ... when sidestand is in upright position, switch attached to it is bridging those two wires and blue/green is directly connected to the bikes frame ... when sidestand is in parking position, switch has function to open electrical circuit between blue/green and black wire on connector ... if the black wire is cut somewhere or it has bad electrical contact to the bike's frame due corrosion or lose wire, engine could not be starter (unless engine is in neutral gear or clutch lever is pulled-in - but forget about this now) ... idea is to connect blue/green directly to the bike's frame, somewhere where there is no paint and conduction of electricity if good enough ... this should eliminate problem with sidestand switch and perhaps broken black wire connection to the bike's frame

I can't make any photos with procedure of doing this, unfortunately ... perhaps Kev can do that ...

if you manage to make any of the above, try to reset malfunction history again and try to start the engine

I think you will find the circuit is a bit more complex & needs to be tested correctly as there is a blocking diode in the circuit, the side stand switch runs through the fuel Fuel pump relay.

Make sure the side stand switch is plugged together for this test, unplug the Engine ECU. You need to test the circuit from point 1 at the engine ECU with the multimeter on Ohms, with the red lead from the multimeter on point 1 & the black lead on the neg side of the battery, now move the side stand up & down, what are the readings?

If you get no readings from the last test, can you test the earth side of the side stand switch, red lead on the black wire on the loom side of the circuit at the side stand switch connector & the black multimeter lead on the neg side of the battery, what is the readings.

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Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

it is more complex ... I agree ... but if you have a look at the electrical drawings, you'll be able to see that several checkpoints can be found on the circuit ... it's not that hard to follow the diagram ...

For you & me it is no problem.

For someone who has never carried out electrical fault finding it might be. Thats why we offer one on one help on this forum for XT supporters.

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Click here to join the XT Supporter's scheme

Mods that I have done to my XTX's

My 04 XTX
Stage 1 & 2 DNA filters / Kev fuel mod / snorkel mod / Drilled air box mod / Engine breather mod / Fork Spacer mod / 15w fork oil /
[
My 07 XTX
Raptor 700 cylinder 102mm / Modified Crank Case to take a 105mm Raptor Cylinder / 11:1 102mm JE Raptor piston / Stage 1 Raptor Hot Cam / Ported head / Colder Spark Plug / +2mm Throttle body / DNA stage 1 & 2 filters / Modified Air Box / Snorkel removed / Worry Brothers stage 2 filter cover / 6mm & 8mm Bolts Replaced with Titanium Bolts / Recovered seat in Black / O2 Eliminator /

My 09 XTX
59HP at the rear wheel / Stage 2 Raptor Hot Cam / DNA stage 3 Air Box / Carbon Can Exhausts / Modified Exhaust Link Pipes / PCIII With Custom Fuel Map / Wideband Commander O2 Data logger / LCD100 Dyno Jet display & fuel adjuster / 2500 OHM HT lead instead of a 10K OHM XT lead / Extra Coolant Cooler / Protaper Fat Bars / Tail Tidy With LED Tail Light / OKE Protection Knobs / LED indicators / AIS blocked / Modified rear sprocket rubbers / Rear Foot Pegs removed / 09 ECU With 02 Sensor Changed To A 06 ECU / Complete wiring harnes Changed from 09 to 04 / Home made LED resistor flasher / Hole drilled in the fuel tank filler neck to allow quicker filling / Modified Bar End Weights / Progressive front fork springs, 15W fork oil, forks lowered 25mm, used XTR rear links lowering the rear 20mm, rear spring one click stiffer / Changed front & rear guards from blue to black / 47T rear sprocket / Speedo Healer V4.0 / Kev throttle cam mod / Throttle grip mod / The new 2010 O2 sensor mod is out, works a treat, The new 2012 O2 Controller is out, PM me for details

Now ride a 2018 MT09SP ABS + TCS

My KTM 990 SMR Mod book. http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4946

And mighty grateful I am for your assistance

Thanks Kev & Medo, I'll get back to you with my results as soon as possible.

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ok, here's what happened...

I attached the the black lead to the negative terminal, and the red lead to point 1 on the ECU plug.

The reading was 1005...no change when stand down.

Again black lead to negative terminal, red lead to black wire on clip...

The reading was 00.3 - no change with stand down. I tried it again at one point and the reading on the meter went a little do lalee. Removed leads tried again got the same 00.3 reading.

Medo, I didn't try your method, was a little bit worried I might frazzle something.

So, not sure if I did the checks correctly, but I'm hoping that there's a solution to this.

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[quote=Denny]
I attached the the black lead to the negative terminal, and the red lead to point 1 on the ECU plug, as in the picture:

The reading was 1005...no change when stand down.
[/quote=Denny]

reading shows resistance of the diode while it is directly polarized ... I don't know what type of multimeter you are using but if you have ability to check diodes with it, you should do that ... when directly polarized (red lead to the pin 1 one the ECU and black lead to the blue/green wire of the sidestand switch connector) multimeter reading is around 0.7V and when reverse polarized (swap red and black leads) reading is infinity ... try to do that ...

this diode may also cause the problem


[quote=Denny]
Again black lead to negative terminal, red lead to black wire on clip...

The reading was 00.3 - no change with stand down. I tried it again at one point and the reading on the meter went a little do lalee. Removed leads tried again got the same 00.3 reading.
[/quote=Denny]


this reading is OK ... the resistance should be around 0 with stand down or up ...

Guys, I haven't had time to try anything recently other than my last post.

I'm not sure if I followed your guidance as requested. Grateful if you could point out exactly where I need to put the multimeter leads using the pictures I've attached. I think this will be the best way for me to understand exactly where I should be looking at to get readings in order to solve this issue. This will be the last chance before I have to load her onto a van to get looked at by the stealer

I think these are the three points of reference needed for testing, other than the battery...

The ECU connection


The connection between ECU and side stand sensor


Side stand sensor

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put your multimeter on DIODE test ... connect RED lead to ECU connector blue/black wire (lower row; second pin from the left on your 1st photo) and BLACK lead to blue/green wire of the sidestand switch connector (should be left pin on upper - male connector on your 2nd photo) ... reading should be around 0.7V ... swap RED and BLACK leads and have a look on multimeter again ... reading should be infinity ...

Ok, so I tried the above, the reading was .65 with no change when I put the stand down. I forgot to try it with the red/black leads switched DOH!!! I can try that again tmrw if necessary?

I also tried Kev's test:

I was not sure what Kev meant by point 1 on the ECU connector. I connected the black lead to the - terminal on the battery, and tried it with the red on the pinhole corresponding to number 1 on the back of the clip as well as the point that Medo suggested above (lower row; second pin from the left on your 1st photo)

Here are the readings:
'point 1 on ECU connector' - 0.9 (no change with stand up or down)
'lower row; second pin from the left on your 1st photo' - 0.65 with stand up / 1.5 stand down (I may have mixed the figures for the up/down positions - long day at work...)

For info, I used the following multimeter on the setting circled in yellow for all tests above:



Hope this makes sense? Sorry for the lack of brains...I have no idea how electrics work

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