A few questions:

� To prevent damage to the Garmin terminals with an 'always live' connection, I plan to wire the system so it's only on with the ignition. Anybody already done this? I have the wiring diagram so should be able to work out.

� LED Running lights and HID main/dip. Is there a recognised source for these?

� Engine Oil - 10W 40 seems the stuff, semi synthetic I presume?

� K&N Air Filter with Leo Vince pipes seems to be a good way to get the air in and out of the lump. Are there any better solutions?

� Hand Guards - I was planning to fit Acerbis. Do I assume correctly, that I'll need to lose the bar end weights?

� Braided brake lines - HEL seem the only supplier at the moment?

� Oversized footpegs - looks like an adaptor is needed, so I can't jusy put on some WR ones. Touratech I guess?

Thanks for any tips and words of wisdom.....

Oversized footpegs - looks like an adaptor is needed, so I can't jusy put on some WR ones. Touratech I guess?

I fited these without any adaptors etc and they work a treat...Bargain!
Yamaha YZ 80 125 250 500 WR 200 500 FOOT PEGS ebay: �23.99 inc free postage

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Previous bikes:TS50 - RD125LC - XT250 - ZXR750L3 - BMW 650 Funduro - BMW 1100GS - XT660Z Tenere

Done to death! Use the search function, lots of threads about the live feed behind the clocks.

Again, there are a number of threads about this, some stuff on LED lights and a couple on HID conversions and some experiments with LED driving lamps too.

RTFM - Sticking to what is in the manual is the best place to start

Forget the K&N stuff, stick with DNA and a PC-V, all the maps are (or soon will be) available if you keep the stock cans.

Lot's of choices, again it's best to use the search function to find what you are looking for,

TripleTom has replaced these, I'm sure he'll be along soon to give you some advice. but yes HEL are Googles current favorite...

The WR ones Mike has suggested are a good cheap option, the quality isn't great, but for �24 delivered they are a great value. At the other end of the price scale there are PivotPegz, niether need any adapters, just buy for the YZ or older WR's, they are the same (also the TTR600)

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Great - Thanks guys.

I'll look out the old links, but I did RTFM and no sign of any advice so I'll check with Yamaha..

Good news on the footpegs and I'll probably go for the Talon jobbies..

I'm surprised that keeping the existing can is an option as it is so restrictive. Perhaps I'll look at a single can option with a fabricated link pipe and the PC with DNA filter.

So much to do....

Heres what I have on my XTZ.

TT Hand guards and deflectors
Akro pipes
TT wind deflector
Full Yamaha Luggage
Centre stand
Wide pegs as above
Spot lights
Hotgrips
Grip Puppies
Hepco and Becker engine bars

Not looking to do anything else as its setup perfectly for my tours etc.

Enjoy the new bike.

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Previous bikes:TS50 - RD125LC - XT250 - ZXR750L3 - BMW 650 Funduro - BMW 1100GS - XT660Z Tenere

I've done exactly what you want to do.
I used the power from my rear light , now i only have power while ignition is on.

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Derbi Senda DRD Sm "04 (black) => BMW F650GS "04 (yellow) => Yamaha xt660z T�n�r� "09 (blue)

Located the flying lead behind the dash trim, so will wire an auxillary loom in..

You can fit the KTM accessory wrap-around hand guards (the same ones you get on a 990A) and keep the original bar end weights if you like. They are very good value at around �40 pair, and surprisingly strong for an all plastic guard. Deep enough to keep the worst of the weather off too...

J xx

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Whilst the tank was off, I hard wired into the rear light supply and earth - works a treat and leaves me the dash connector for something else should I need it.

Also took apart the regulator/rectifier connector and it was swimming having very lightly washed the bike. Considering the position of this connector, there is no protection from the elements and I'm not surprised some have failed. Dried out and with plenty of WD 40 a balloon was used to sleeve the join.. Will check it all again after a soaking.