Quote:
Originally Posted by
greatescape
Brilliant. ....thanks Seahorse! . Even I can follow those instructions. And that's a good tip about skimming the face of the damper rods. I've had to put the forks back together as I need the bike. ...I'll get the spacers made up. One other thing I found was the Ohlins springs were too long and I had to cut down the spacer tube. It's all a good learning curve and it's great to understand the workings of the bike better....thanks again! Steve
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Yes, the final length of the spacer tube will depend on several things....Firstly, the difference in free length between the original springs and the new Ohlins springs. The thickness of the spacers you have machined up, and finally, the thickness of the VS4 valves themselves. A bit of math involved, but not rocket science.
Ultimately you will want to end up with around 18mm or so of initial preload on the new Ohlins springs. (don't forget to have your pre-load adjusters backed right off) If you are lucky, when everything is buttoned up, this will give pretty close to the right amount of static sag, and you will still have around 25mm of preload adjustment to play with for adjusting rider sag correctly, when everything beds in.
As a guide for initial preload, you could measure the preload on your original springs and use that as a starting point....Measure the distance between the base of the Fork Nut Shoulder and the top of the fork tube...
BTW, don't forget you also need to drill out the damper rod holes to eliminate their effect....this should be explained in the instructions provided.
I ended up needing around 5 turns (5mm) of additional preload to achieve the correct riders sag.