Just be aware that when you tighten the Nyloc nut, that it actually locks onto the base of the valve itself. If you do not constrain the valve body in a soft jawed vice (or something similar) it is possible to actually turn valve body during tightening, thus continuing to increase the spring tension.
As Plieades said, spring tensions are not critical, but if you do want to fine tune your settings at a later date, it is best to have them reasonably accurate.
I am on a bit of a mission with my current front end overhaul, fully expecting to be opening up the forks again some time later this year....When I do, I think I may install a spring washer under the Nyloc nut.
Also experimenting with Motul 5wt fork oil. Just about to head out on a 10 day ride in the Victorian High Country. There will be plenty of low speed work in loose, rocky and steep terrain. Hoping the lighter oil helps in the technical stuff.
Had only intended doing an straight oil change on my forks, but due to the mess I found the V4S valves in, decided to strip the forks completely. Have found in the past the broom handle method of constraining the rebound tube during disassembly/assembly a right royal PITA, so decided to make my own tool.
Simply purchased a jackhammer tip and forced a bit of aluminium tube over the end. Drilled a hole big enough to fit a screwdriver. (Would normally have welded a bit of pipe onto the tip,,, but as I said earlier, I am on a mission!!!).
Constraining the rebound tube is now an easy one handed operation.
