I think you've found at least two factors that will not help a smooth gear change!

The clutch bite point should not be at the full extent of the levers travel. If it is, there's a good chance the plates will not be disengaging fully. There should be no more than 10-15 mm of free play measured between the levers tip. I would consider adjusting your clutch.

As for the oil, whilst you can use 15/50, it is at the thick end of what's acceptable. 10/40 is more than adequate for the Greek climate and will make the clutch less likely to drag.



Effectively what happens is a thick oil in a wet clutch acts a bit like a viscous coupling or a torque converter in an automatic gearbox when the clutch is disengaged. The oil rotating between the plates will cause "drag" between them and some torque (power) will be transmitted through the clutch even when its disengaged. I would seriously consider going back to the standard issue 10/40 grade.

How do you spot clutch drag? Well for a start your symptoms are typical - clunky gear changes. Other things you'll notice are more clunkiness when cold, particularly engaging first at a standstill and in the worst cases the bike will "creep" when held on the clutch on level ground. If you put the bike on a centre of paddock stand and run the engine with first selected and clutch pulled you should easily be able to stop the rear wheel rotating by hand with very little or no effort if there is no drag. If the clutch is dragging, for a start you'll notice the wheel will start rotating more easily and quickly, but it will need much more effort to stop it turning.

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