OK. At least that's ruled out the ignition cut out system (as long as you're sure the sidestand, clutch and neutral lights are all working as they should).

Now you need to turn your attention to the ignition and coil if it still showing error 33.

Firstly, is the spark plug good? Is the battery producing 12.5-12.8V? Are all the fuses intact and seated correctly?

Check the LT connections and wiring and the test the circuit.

You can test the coil by going into the diagnostic mode and running code 30 which will generate 5 sparks. Either do this with the spark plug out and earth against the motor (be careful) or use a spark tester.

Test the primary (LT) coil circuit's resistance. Connect a multimeter across the LT terminals on the coil. The correct resistance is 3.4-4.6 ohms.

Test the secondary (HT) circuit's resistance. Connect the multimeter to the LT terminal where the red/black wire connects and to the conductor inside the HT lead (without the plug cap). The resistance should be 10.4 - 15.6 Kohms.

Test the plug cap. Remove the cap and connect the multimeter between the the inside of the cap and the the HT lead entry point. The resistance should be 10 Kohms.

If you don't find a fault here, then the next place to look at would be the crank position sensor.

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