I always used to do an intermediate change on my R1100GS and I also do on the Ulysses. With the XT being liquid cooled I wasn't sure it was necessary. Incidentally I used to ride an XT500E (1983-1989) and went to Portugal three times on it and Greece once, so this forthcoming purchase of a 660R will be like retutning home. It's for a major trip in my early retirement. Cheating a bit by flying the bike from Amsterdam to Kuala Lumpur and then heading to Thailand, Laos and Cambodia before returning to Thailand and later Malaysia. I live in Portugal and my entire mileage will be around 10,500, including the European legs. Not as adventurous as being a real overlander but I don't care. I was thinking of taking the Uly but the XT makes more sense and I've wanted one for over a year. If I have to start a new thread for this I will but what spares would members suggest I took?