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XT660 to 700ccm conversion
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Hello guys,
Shortly I'm doing a 660 to 700cc conversion. Here's so far what I've done. 1. bought a used XT660 head + cylinder + cam (oem) 2. bored and coated (nicasil+?) the cylinder to 700 ccm; done by http://www.powerseal.nl; they use a special process. See pics IMG_0869.jpg IMG_0870.jpg IMG_0874.jpg IMG_0875.jpg 3. bought a suitable 103mm JE piston (thanks Kev for the advice!); See pics IMG_0876.jpg IMG_0877.jpg IMG_0878.jpg IMG_0880.jpg IMG_0881.jpg 4. tuned the cylinderhead + paint job (done by http://www.off-the-road.de; see pics before (head already sand blasted) - (IMG_0940.jpg IMG_0944.jpg IMG_0945.jpg IMG_0946.jpg IMG_0947.jpg IMG_0948.jpg IMG_0949.jpg) and after head tune job and coating job (IMG_1198.jpg IMG_1199.jpg IMG_1201.jpg IMG_1202.jpg IMG_1203.jpg). Next steps: - coating the cylinder to black - still waiting for the OTR cam; will arrive shortly. - remove the engine Will keep you informed! Greetings from Holland, Marcel (marjani) |
another Fran-kenstein motor, well done, I feel like an organ donor
Hello Ladieeeeeeesssss :pjrflash_Q2CCBE: There's more organs where that came from!! ;) :biggob: |
oeps, forgot to mention CaptMoto for the used head+cylinder+cam.
Thank:icon_blackeye: you Fran! |
what Hp will u get after that?
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Well done that man, glad it's finally coming to the install.
I have my fingers crossed for you, +60HP for sure.:blob3: Can't wait to see the dyno results, as we have a few other 700 conversions going on behind the scenes so there will be a few compassions to compare. |
Marjani , how much are the costs so far?
Want to do the same... |
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Thanks Capt,
Since my engine is somewhat older than most bikes (one of first of 2004) i am thinking of modifying it and in case of a brakedown use newer replacement parts. But don�t want to go as far as having a whole spare engine. Or isnt that what you mean and am i not getting the point?:confused: |
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Yesterday I recieved the OTR cam. Nothing more to tell about this part, looks just the same as the oem cam.
I also started the Engine Removal; removed the exhaust pipes, drained the oil and coolant, side panels. Wanted to remove the fuel tank, but have to drain it first. Guess there still about 7 liters of fuel in there, so have to be carefull not to spill it around the garage (my wife will kill me, haha!). Lucky I don't smoke;) Today I took the cylinder for a powder coating job. It's now 'paint it black' ;) I'm very frustrating at the moment, because the weather forecast will be good the whole weekend and I can't drive my damn blue steel horse! But I have still got my good ole' Vespa and a baby Honda dominator to drive....no wheelies for me for the moment ;) Guess I need some mental coaching here, because this is a hell of a job! Wish Kev was my neighbour... Skorzeny: I will give you a full review of the prices asap. Greetings from a sunny Holland, Marcel |
Looking forward to the results.
If you get stuck you know where to find me, I am always willing to help. :typing[1]: |
Ok,thanks...
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will let you know if I get stuck! cheers. marcel |
calculating the compressio ratio (CR)
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In order to calculate the Cr, you need to measure the volume of the combustion chamber (Vc), the minimum volume of space into which the fuel and air is compressed prior to ignition.
Measured the Vc of the tuned head with a burret. The result: 57 ccm3 Next is to measure the space above the 103mm piston on top of its stroke. Add this result to the 57 and we know the total Vc. After this we can start calculating the CR. To be continued... |
Ola Marjani,
Nice project you have going on, i am thinking about the 727 conversien. Regards from Holland, Ren� |
Engine removal finally finished
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after spending a few hours in my garage I finally removed the engine.
I can tell you it's a hell of a job! You have to remove so many parts in order to finally remove the engine. A good thing about this is that you can clean the parts perfectly. Also found out that 2 main engine screws were loosen up, after appr. 6.000 kms. So it's a good thing to check all screws with a torque wrench from time to time. Next thing is to remove the oem head and cylinder. |
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That's good news, the more conversions we do, the more we get to know about this engine. Keep us informed. Thanks. Marcel |
piston to valve clearance/Compression Ratio
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Measured the piston to valve clearance. Used a Cometic base and the oem head gasket. The results: 1,3 mm on the intake and 2,1 on the exhaust valves. According to OTR the piston to valve clearance should not exceed 1,2mm intake and 1,7 exhaust.
So that should be okay. Also the OEM gasket is 1,0 mm (unused)/ 0,85mm (used) and the Cometic is 1,4 mm (unused) and 1,0 mm (used/ approximately ). Because finally I will use a Cometic gasket, the clearance should be okay for sure. I used play-doh clay (tip by Kev). Also now I know what the Cr will be. According to the result of the measurements, the Cr will be around 1:11,3. Assuming the Cometic gasket will shorten from 1,4mm to 1,0mm. It was difficult to measure the space above the piston using the Burret, but I finally did it. It's not much, only about 2,7 ml. That's not much, though expected because of the dome. Still waiting for some parts comming out of the US, so have to wait patiently again. Will keep you all informed. Greetings from Holland, Marcel |
Nice work.
You need to also mention that your cylinder head face was machined by an unknown amount by Off The Road & you needed to measure all the above measurements to make sure you have a safe build. Well done mate. |
Kev is right, forgot to mention that. If I've got the time I will measure the OEM head so we can compare the volumes.
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Red Bull Starter Motor
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I created a RB starter motor, which injects pure taurine into the engine to give it wings!
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Nice work mate, show us some photos of the black head & cylinder on the motor.:3some:
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Engine pics
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Hereby some engine pics
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Engine runs
Today I finished the bike. Filled new engine oil, coolant, put 10 liters of Shell Vpower in the tank. Hit the start button once, no response. Hit it a second time and the engine was running!
Drove a few km's, checked the oil level, put some more oil in it, checked the coolant level again - no need to fill that. Drove again some km's very carefully, at very low rev. Checked the oil again, checked for leakage. All seems to be fine. Put on my motor suite + termo suite (currently very cold in Holland). Drove around 70 km's at low rev. Swifted gear often, 3rd to 4th and back. Raised the rev's carefully sometime, very carefully, almost no throttle. At first opinion the engine runs ok. But this is based on 70km's, low rev's. There's more noise cumming out of the cilinder/head. Not sure yet if this is bad, my opinion this is cause by the OTR welded cam. It also feels like there's also more vibration at higher rev's. Also the engine starts not immediately when warm. When it's cold then no problem. For the next couple of days I will drive some more km's to see if it remains okay. After around 500 Km's I will raise the throttle lever some more and do some higher rev's to see if the bike got more power. Greetings from a cold Holland, Marcel |
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Freezing cold!!!
It's freezing cold currently in Holland. But despite of this I took the bike for a ride and now having 270km done. I can tell you that this is very unpleasant, having ice covered on your glases and suite. But the engine is still running well - no oil consumption at all. Although it's a bit more noisy because of the OTR cam. Also more vibrations. I haven't tried it yet a full throttle. I did try half throttle once, in 2nd + 3rd gear, just a second and than back to 1/3, and I think it's more powerfull than before, more aggressive. The sound cumming from the exhaust is also changed, it's louder; when doing the half throttle I was shocked about the loud sound cumming from the BSM (have my db killers blown out ;))! I must say I don't like the changes at all, the bike feels like a drag racer -which only runs perfect at full throttle - but I'm very curious what happens when at full throttle. Also I'm curious what gain it will have on the HP's.
After 500km I will raise the throttle lever some more and make an appointment for a dyno run + remapping. Greetings from a cold Holland, Marcel |
Mate your bike will not feel like a normal XT anymore. You would have increase the HP by 25 to 30% & with your choice of cam, your power band would have moved up the rpm range with more force. :love10:
Wait until it is run in with a custom fuel map you will love the power. |
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All the time you've been a great help for me, for all the people of Xt660.com. It was you who made me curious about doing these kind of - more complex - mods I may say. Thanks to you I did know what parts to order and now we know which parts work together (raptor cylinder/JE piston;xt cylinder > big bore 103mm w/ JE piston) etc. I will try following the leader in XT mods! I'm a bit afraid that it won't end here...Stroker kit/+6mm 700cc >> 750cc?! Greetings from Holland, Marcel |
after doing almost 600+ km's she's still running, thank god! I now can take the bike to higher rev's and she feels much stronger like Kev was saying.
Doing wheelie is 2nd gear is no problem, just open the throttly lever to full and there she go's (with oem sprocket 15-45 size):toothy10:; no cluthing trics anymore. It's become a complete new bike, much more fun to drive; a constant power up to the rev limiter. The sound has cumming from the silencers has also changed; much heavier and louder. I found a custom mapping from a Raptor 700 similar to mine setup (special cam/700ccm/ported head) which I uploaded in the PCIII for the moment. The more km's I drive, the better she runs. But since it's very cold at the moment driving the bike is a bit unpleasant. Soon I'm going to change the sprockets soon by 15-46 for sm and 15-47/48 for dirt. Have to play around with different sizes. Next tuesday I have made an appointment with a dyno center to make a custom mapping and see the results. Can't wait to see the results. Hope for 55+ hp. Greetings from cheese country, Marcel |
I can't wait to see the result as well, 60HP + for sure. You have a before dyno run so we can work the gains out, as every dyno reads differently. So don't worry to much on the final reading as we can work out the true hp by the HP gains from the standard run.
I also love my extra power all the way to the rev limiter with no power drop off. The bike wheelies on roll on in 2nd with no problems, I find it hard to keep the front wheel down in the mountains in the tight stuff it just keeps standing up when ridden hard. :Speedy_Superhero_Q3 |
I never had a dyno run before. I was planning to do so but was unable to find me a nearby dyno center. Now that I finally found one nearby (about 60km's driving; by car(!)) I already did the xt700 mod.
The center I found is the one I got from powercommander.com. They are equipped with Tuning Link Software and are authorized tuning center. There are a few of these dyno centers across the Netherlands, thank god for that! Otherwise had to drive to Germany or so. This weekend no driving because of the weather conditions :sad6:. So I started to install my Hyperpro front springs/oil+kev spacers. This must make them stiffer I hope. First have to warm the garage a bit, otherwise I will be freezing of important body parts ;-) Greetings from a cold Holland, Marcel |
I am putting my money on 64HP any other takers.:coolsmiley:
55HP Marcel 60HP 61HP 62HP 63HPFreez 64HP Kev, Freez 65HPFreez 66HP 67HP 68HP 69HP 70HP |
maybe start from 55 HP. 70HP is I'm afraid a bit to much ;)
55HP Marjani (Marcel) |
Dyno numbers differ, mostly because of tyre pressures and tyre grip, so it's hard to pick a number.
A XT with similar mods to yours, except for the cam, it ran a stage 2 Hotcam instead, produced around 57HP on my dyno. My dyno reads very low and if my corrections are right and you get similar performance to the XT700 I tested then you should see around the 63 to 65HP mark. Make sure they dyno shop have Dynojet's Tuning link software and that they use it correctly. |
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Cant wait to see your results, maybe a monster Tenere in years to come:jumping0006:
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AIS must be blocked.:ky: |
The best advice to give you is to make sure the dyno centre uses the Dynojet Tuninglink software.
Then from your side, make 100% sure the AIS is blocked off and that the exhaust joints are sealing 100% and that no exhaust gas is leaking out. When the bike is cold, start it and feel with your hands around the joints if you can feel air blowing out of the pipe. You need to be quick as the pipes warm up real fast. If you find a leak, you need to remove the exhaust, put some very high heat tolerant silicone sealant in and around the joints and bolt the pipes back. When you get to the dyno, ask them to open the help file for the Yamaha Raptor 700 and use the settings as per Dynojets recomendations. Also ask them to use a very long probe to suck the exhaust gas from the header pipe and not just from the silencer itself. For slightly more top end power you can ask them to tune full throttle for an Air Fuel ratio of around 13.4 |
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I'm sure the pipes are sealed. I allways use special exhaust sealant around the joints, I know that they leak when not using sealant. Also I allways use new exhaust gaskets at the header manifold. AIS is blocked. Greetings from a cold Holland, marcel |
dyno run result
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Well, I can tell you this was a hell of a day! First the dyno centre called me this morning to cancel our appointment. The guy who was supposed to do the run had become ill. So I needed to find my another dc for today's run. After calling 4 different dealers I find me the nearest dealer at 185km distance! This dealer was the first one who knew about Raptor 700's and Xt660's, so that made me very happy.
So I jumped into my car, but my car wouldn't start - dead battery because of the coldness. So after asking my neighbour to help me (yeah Toyota; hell MB!) my car started again. Then my tomtom died! Guess also because of the coldness. So graped by zumo, programmed the route and finally left home. At the dc first I needed to explain about the mods and raptor 700 dyno help files. Luckely the gentlemen who helped me knew a lot of bikes. Once the bike was settled up to the dyno machine, we started for a run. This went without any problems. Once trying to create the new mapping with the tunelink software the problems started again. We couldn't get a good/stable signal from the spark wires to read out the rev's. After calling to dynocenter main dealer, we finally managed to get a stable rev and we could make the custom mapping. And now for the results: max power: 63,3 HP max torque: 75,6 Nm To compare the results I asked them if they had one from another Xt660 run. They luckely did, so they put that one also on the dyno results. Compared to the estimated 55Hp I was a bit surprise. Freez and Kev are the winners, concratulations ;) Next mod I'm thinking about is a +2mm TB. Although I have to drive again 2x 185km for that to make a new mapping, I think we will be able to make it to 65 HP. Greetings from a very cold Holland, Marcel |
Well done mate I am proud of you. This is a good result.:icon_cheers:
Going by the Raptor results you would get 2.5 to 3 hp gain with your set up using a +2mm throttle body, so should be around the 66HP range. With my +2mm throttle body I can feel the extra pull up top & guess mine is around 59/60HP, I have swooped the throttle bodies & cams around a few times on my bike to see the pro's & con's of the throttle body & can't real find any reason not to remove the +2mm off my bike. I think we must change your title to KING OF THE HILL The results 63.31HP 55.81Ft-LBS Torque Marcel did you get the Run file off the Dyno saved to a pen drive, if so please E-mail it to me so I can see the runs. Just interested in the below 3000rpm results. Please send me your fuel map so I can add it to the map section. I have added the results to HP results post. http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=4509 |
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