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The problem does seem to be with the locks themselves, and that the keys seem to be made out of cheese?
Surely (as Capt Moto suggests) a far better solution would be to fit better quality locks with stronger keys? Perhaps Yamaha will revise the specification - and offer a retrofit? Me, I'm increasingly tempted by the Touratech set-up, even if their raw aluminium boxes make everything you put in them black... xxx |
Touratech panniers
Yes, I have been studying the issue of panniers for quite a time now, I really like the look of the Touratech frames, which would enable chopping of tail as back cross bar seems higher up and they look tough. I too, wasn't too keen on their panniers, maybe another type of pannier could be used on their frame ie Metal mule?
I did however like the look of their Zega flex though, but would like the option of hard panniers also. Any views on this would be appreciated. |
You can use any kind of panniers on the Touratech frame/rack, drill holes and use the mounting hardware set, that you can order seperately at Touratech. Only take care of sealing the panniers or they'll leak at the holes. For instance: Metal Mules, Hepco&Becker, Bernd Tesch, SW-Motech(Trax), Zarges, Pelicans to name some brands. Or make your own, if you got the skills to do that. It's up to you and your budget. Advantage is, you can hang your panniers as high or low as you wish, or the angle of the panniers for that matter. Just google some names and take your pick, good luck and greetz, Hans.
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See Chris Scotts site link via here or the HUBB, he used zega flex cases on a recent trip.
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I got the Yamaha top-box on the 22nd to take some stuff back home and because I thought it was a simple neat solution for when I need to carry a bit more than my Kriga R35 can hold. I'd certainly agree the lock has some 'character', mainly make sure you close the lid firmly and likewise firmly push at the top of mounting flap at the back.
Other than than I'm very pleased. I rode home on the motorway and virtually forgot it was there, even fully loaded with fruit (also had the Kriga simarly loaded). The only time I was aware of any difference was when filtering and going over the cat-eyes which were bouncing me this way and that, took slightly longer for the bike to stabalise itself after each one. |
Solution to the lock 'problem'
I've mentioned this a few times, well today (whilst looking at a rather good deal on a XJR1300) I asked the dealer what lubrication he used on the locks (on my luggage).
Just to recap, my locks work perfectly well, there is no snapping or bending of keys - they are a bit more delicate yes (but better that the stock TT ones - that fall apart! <experience> - I ditched the locks and used padlocks instead, but that's a whole other bike and story), but perfectly servicable. The key thing here is that out of the box (sorry, no pun intended) the locks are rubbish, mainly beacause Mr Yamaha failed completely to lubricate them. If you rub two pieces of plastic together - you're going to get problems! unless you are trying to perfect the art of hand manipulated welding... Anyway, to make a complete mountain out of a short story, my dealer (being a good one, and having a wealth of real technical knowledge, about bikes) squirted a bit of lubricant into my locks (Oh 'er missis) and they have worked faultlessly since. The lubricant he used was Wurth HHS2000, dunno how much it costs as he donated the remains of his tin to my cause... so Ididn't need to buy any. |
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a lot of bike shops sell wurth stuff, ask for the HHS2000 by name, don't let them give you HSW100, HHSFluid HHSGrease or anything else. HHS2000 isn't cheap but you dont need much so it'll last ages. if anyone is stuck let me know, i'll source it through work. |
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I am considering getting the Yamaha panniers. Can anyone please let me have the internal sizes of the pannier please. Thanks.
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