The DNA stage II filter provides the greatest performance gain per �/�.

For buddhist riders:

try this

Dalai Lama is a keen air rifle enthusiast and watch repairer.

Yes you will feel a difference with the DNA filters, if money is short at least fit a stage 2 filter.

you have to try and you will feel the real difference :)

I may be a bit late in posting in this thread, but I just got an xt660z so bear with me.

Public holiday today so I was tinkering with the bike just looking around to see if I could find this airbox. Pictures in the first post are gone, but Kev's link with an explanation had some. My airbox doesn't look the same at all :tard:

Removing the side cover on both sides I am presented with a cone-looking air filter sticking up in the middle. Am I right in assuming that I could theoretically remove one or both side covers and get the same, or better, result as removing the snorkle and/or drilling holes in the sides? The way I see it all the air would pass through the filter in the middle and no air would bypass it. I understand that going for a ride on a rainy day or washing the bike would not be a good idea with the side covers off, though.

DO NOT DO THIS.

the airbox setup on the Tenere is very different to the R & X's. When you remove the side panels on the Tenere, you are in the CLEAN AIR SIDE of the airbox.

You need to refit the side panels, but, as you have it apart - grease the edges a little to get a better seal (some do leak air/dirt).

Look at my sig line to get to the modifications index,

The snorkle on the Tenere is under the seat, held in place with 4 screws.

Wow really? Hmm... There was no grease on the edges when I had a look, and it's only a couple of weeks old. Also, the snorkle looks like it goes directly into that chamber :confused2:

I'll have another look then! Thanks

Edit: Doh, I see now that on post #3, there is a section specifically for XTZ... :D

That's right you won't find grease, but some will stop grit finding it's way into your engine.

Yes, the snorkle goes into that chamber. The air goes down the snorkle, through the airfilter (into the area you saw when you removed the side panels), then into the inlet manifold.

Agreed..a slight smear of grease will keep it sealed (if there's any play in the lids at all)...if you study the air box for a while you'll see just how it works and that indeed the space inside the air box is all clean filtered air....if you drill holes you'll see that the inlet trumpet will just suck in dirty air....

A different filter attached to the inlet trumpet and a drilled airbox is the only way you'll get a vast air flow improvement...

I wonder why it was made different at all?....

:)

can someone please reload these images as i can't view them
all the best, sam

PM sent

Which ones as there are 13 pages?

pics on page 1 are gone

They were posted by Buck in 2006, he has not been a member here for years.

Refer to these pictures of the air box.

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=12547

Hiya Kev and gang!!!!

My bike is now using about 10% MORE petrol since I listened to you lot!!!!!! But blimey, I am having about 10 times more fun so I guess that this explains the increased fuel consumption, as the throttle is now always wide open so that I can listen to the great air intake "growl" without that stupid snorkel!! Oh and the Stage 2 filter just arrived from Greece so that will be fitted this evening, fuel consumption will be up by at least 20% tomorrow hehe.....

Hiya Guys!! I received my DNA Stage 2 filter from Greece yesterday (thanks for the rapid despatch guys) and I fitted it last night. I already have the K&N Stage 1 fitted and the snorkel removed. This morning my ride to work was even more fun than usual, the bike sounds and goes MUCH better, thanks boys!!!!!

EVERY XT should have this fitted!!!!!

Hi

The pics are dead. Can u re-upload them? :o)

Greets

Hi, ive been trawling through all of the posts about the snorkel removal on my 07 xtx, but cant find the info i want, so here i go. Ive fitted a K&N filter, removed said snorkel & my bike is also fitted with a pair of MTC Cans. I read here that the lamba should sort out the fuelling to suit these mods, and if it cant, the engine light will come on. At the minute i,ve only started the bike in the garage, it hasnt been on the road yet, and it seems to be running ok. If i take the bike out and the engine light does come on, how do i go about getting it reset again? these are all the mods i will be doing to this bike, so i wont be fitting a kev mod or power commander. any help appreciated with this, cheers:T

The O2 sensor is an emission controlling device not a tuning device it keeps the A/F ratio at 14.7:1 the XT produces the best HP at 13.2:1, so setting the A/F ratio to 14.7:1 your XT will produce it's worst HP, the closed loop circuit only works when cruising & at light throttle openings.

I would recommend a fuelling device + a O2 controller to correctly tune your bike with all those mods.

The O2 sensor light will only come on for open circuit, short to neg or short to +, it will not display a fault for too lean or too rich.

Thanks Kev, but i didnt really understand that :emot-words: So will riding with the mods i have done now make any difference to power output? or more importantly, will they do any harm to the engine (will the bike be running dangerously lean?) If so, i may just install the snorkel and go back to standard filter again as the only reason i changed these was to get a bit more induction roar. Cheers:T

The bike will run lean but should not damage the motor, you are adding more air & allowing the motor to breath more on the exhaust side, there will be an improvement in HP but will be down 3 to 4 HP from what you could get because you have not corrected the A/F ratio with a fueling device.

The XT needs 13.2:1 A/F ratio to produce it's best HP & Torque you will be in the mid to high 14's without correcting the A/F ratio with those mods.

Thanks Kev, i understand a bit better now.

Kev, allow me to demonstrate my newbie ignorance. :D

I do accept that your fuel mod works. Fact. But doesn't the CO adjustment via the clocks also adjust the mixture? If the CO adjustment provides smooth running after mods, is this not sufficient for all but those wanting to wring every last horsepower out of the bike?

Guys you do not have to buy my fuel mods there is plenty options out there, I do not make these mods to make money out of them but to help with an alternative option in fuel mods., all I am doing is giving all the correct information to make your bike run well with all the added mods.

The C0 in the dash only adjusts part throttle fuelling meaning it can only adjust the A/F ratio between a TPS value of 16 & 18 which is from idle to around 2% throttle after that the ECU switches over to a pre-programmed fuel map written by Yamaha, if you change the A/F ratio by increasing air flow the bike will run leaner on the Yamaha programed Fuel map, the only way to correct the A/F ratio is to fit a fuelling device that can change the Yamaha programed map, if you have an O2 sensor you need to control that circuit as well the only two O2 mods that have been proven to work are Dynojet O2 optimizer or my 2012 O2 controller mod. By controlling both the closed & open loop programed maps you are able to get the A/F ratio back into the performance zone of around 13.2:1.

Hope that makes it a little clearer for you, please do not feel pressurized into doing any mods to your bike this is not what we are about on this forum.

Kev is the best. I am non technical but I fitted the Kev fuel mod myself and blimey, wot a difference it makes. I now have a no-jerk bike with fun all the way thro the rev range!!! I use this bike all year round and I cannot often get the smile off my face, it makes riding to work real fun!!!!

Is it really that much better?

Let me summarise where I'm coming from. I have a BMW K1300S that I've been putting about 10,000 miles a year on. 2000 mile tours and 1 mile trips across town to visit mates. The lot. I had a little spare cash and decided I wanted a bike to complement the K13 - to be a lighter, fun run-around, a little off-road and perhaps a route to an adventure. Hence the low-mileage XTR. But...I have no desire to "tune-up" the XTR for performance. It's 47hp, not 175hp like the K13, and I knew that when I bought it. All I'm after is reliability and no hassle. If my bike will really be transformed by the fuel mod then sign me up, but in the 200 miles I've done since I bought it 2 weeks ago, I must say I don't have a problem with the bike as-is.

Thanks for all the help.

A fuel mod is used to correct the Air/fuel ratio, the out right max gains is from the combination of the added mods running at the correct A/F ratio.

A stage 2 DNA air filter is what wakes these motors up, but the intake noise is not for everyone, what I am trying to say is if you are happy with your bike leave it as it is.

Took mine out for the first time this week and I now know what you chaps mean about surge!
I'm a relative new rider and this phenomenon took what confidence I had away very fast.
Am I right in thinking the the fuel mod will eliminate this issue?
I love the bike but can't ride it as it is...

Go for it!

Kev is there any advantage to air intake to drill the holes even when i have stage 1&2 dna filters and would it do any harm if i did?

Does the air filter get much dirtier with the snorkel removed?

No. The snorkel has no effect on filtration. The only reason the snorkel exists is to reduce intake roar (at the expense of air flow). Effectively it is just an intake silencer.

I did with mine and I beleave it does make a difference,the trick is to drill e'm the right size not any old how,so as and when you can reverse the procedure with rubber grommets if you want to.

should the snorkel be left in or removed with this set up.

Would like to know this aswell.

Plan is to have: Both Stage 1 & 2 DNA Filters

So no holes right? Snorkel removed I would GUESS, but is it correct?

Thanks!

-ed

Snorkle should be removed with any after market DNA or K&N Filters.

[QUOTE=eduardcx;229700]Would like to know this aswell.

Plan is to have: Both Stage 1 & 2 DNA Filters

So no holes right? Snorkel removed I would GUESS, but is it correct?

Thanks!

-ed[/QUOTE

If you go to stage 1+2 then no need to drill holes in airbox and snorkel is removed..

Oil can get into the airfilterbox if you are doing wheelies :P