Snorkel Removal?
 

Just done Kev mod and drilling holes in air box. Cant decide what exactly the snorkel is that I have to remove. Sounds very easy. Any chance of a piccy. Or Instruction. Cheers:icon_biggrin:

Sorry Me Being Thick But
 

:brain:After my last post went straight back in the garage and realised what the snorkel is. Couldn't see wood for the trees or rather the black rubber for the black plastic.:laughing6:

don't worry mate silly things do happen.

It's taking me a week to work out a piece of software which is supposed to be "for dummies" so you're not alone.

Oh and... I still haven't worked it out by the way so I must be thicker than I thought.

Here is what I am unable to workout...

http://images.contentreserve.com/Ima...A%7DImg100.jpg

Musician?
 

:YouRock:You some sort of musician then? perhaps play the Guitar?

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...0/DSC01430.jpg

5 String Basses no less!
 

Well that answered my question! Got a couple of 6 string electrics myself, but dont play much if a tall now.:smilies1349:er think we've gone a bit off subject.

That's ok, as long as the boss doesn't notice, I reckon we'll get away with it this time, mom's the word, aye? :042:

In my case, water usually does not get on top of the airbox when riding, it does, when washing the bike ;)

I did remove the snorkle but I am going to make another one that would not restrict air flow, just to keep the water away from top of the airbox.
It would look something like this except only 2cm high and superellipse shaped, like the hole itself. And it would not go IN the hole, it would be AROUND the hole.
http://www.ducati-development-dortmu...rkstatt116.jpg

Ok abt the drilled holes again in the side of the airbox. The holes lets more air into the engine that will make you run lean. So after you drill you probably have to go for a dyno to adjust the correct fuel/air ratio. So again why the holes if the Dyno will overwrite them?

A dyno will not over write anything, the dyno can measure the A/F ratio so the tuner can get the best HP from the bike.

By adding more air you need to add more fuel, by doing this we have proven on the dyno that the XT660 gives more HP & Torque. Even with a stage 1 & 2 filter there is still not enough air going into the motor.

Too bad the pics are gone - I took a quick peek and it looks glued in pretty tight - not much for pulling out the heart or a kidney from the bike - or something...
Will try to take a closer look if you guys insist to just pull until I fall on my arse :).

Don't worry about it mate ! I just removed mine a weak ago...
You need to pull it up and bend it a little so it pulls easier.
Only thing i don't like is that hole and empty space you get after removing it.
I'm thinking about putting some aluminum net over it...

BUT sound that you will get is so so so awesome :)
I couldn't believe it will sound so much better.
Any way if you don't like it you can put it back at the end of day :D

:blob6:

The air box explained.

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=12547

Hello bikers,
I put the bike first KN and Stage2 Dna, and change Co1 to 14 first try, I get big change but my bike's have ported head.
especially the middle and topend power have big change.
now every hard turn the throttle front tire goes up.
Then I thing first and second gear was short.next I will change my camshaft with hotcams stg2 I want to change rear sprocket 45 to 44 or 43 ? Kev what do you thing ? or how can it be ?

Got it pulled out now - it was quite easy once I squeezed it a bit. I think it is great with the extra space - it is also easier to tighten the battery-cover bolts. I had the same idea about some kind of mesh - but then having baggage in there (I have my locks) can cover the hole - So I was thinking about something that can hold the stuff back in place - some screws, profiles or something. Post pics if you cook up a good solution. :stirpot:.

And the sound is really awesome yes! :notworthy:. It also feels like the bike pulls a little bit more. Have not messed with the CO settings yet.

Also tried to take off the old cans to fit my new MTCs... how come you ALWAYS misplace the ONE tool (allen-key size 6) you need?? :eusa_wall:

Love all these smileys!:110:

For a stage 2 hot cam you need 46 or 47 rear sprocket.

Did you have to remove the airbox to remove the snorkel? Just curious, I'd like to remove mine, but can't be bothered with taking the airbox out of thebike.

Thanks.

No you dont have to remove the air box, just get a good grip on the snorcle and give it a good hard wiggle and pull just make shaw theres nothing behind you cos you may end up on your a*se (I did!!):laughing5:

:tongue1: Yanked it straight out! Didn't fall though. ;)

Too bad Yamaha doesn't look as pretty with the snorkel removed as my KTM. Being KTM is as much about looks as performance the bling KTM Hard Parts cover looks the part when removing their snorkels...

http://images26.fotki.com/v957/photo...PM_0052-vi.jpg

Some XT's do look similar to the KTM

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...vxtx/10-12.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...evxtx/3-26.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/DSCF2837.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...x/DSCF2840.jpg

^ Awesome! What's that setup cost? The Hard Parts cover only cost me $40 USD. :D

The air box delivers between 8 to 14 more rear wheel HP depending on your mods, cost a bit more than US$40.00.

http://www.xt660.com/site/node/310

ha ha i had some thoughts so 2 weeks ago i cuted that metal net that people use for all kind of styling bumpers hoods etc, removed accumulator, and placed it perfectly. now i can put all lighter things on it like ; seat net, small cable that i lock helmet with, 2 gloves fits perfectly when its parked... ill make you some pictures soon... its kind of rainy weekend :)

hello again :) Why ?? I need long gears

You will find that with a stage 2 Hot Cam you loose quite a bit of bottom to mid range torque compared to the standard XT660 Cam.

You need the higher gearing to get the revs up quickly to get the rpm over 5500rpm where the stage 2 hot cam starts to make that extra HP & torque.

Ok I understand it, then, I change with a biger piston solves that bottom to mid range touque.. I guess...
and Last week I order a nology high power ignition cable
I hope I will change it this weekend I'll share the results
thank you !!!!

If you fit a high compression piston that will help with the low end loss from the stage 2 Hot Cam.

Are you replacing the cable with coil or just the cable? If you are changing the coil make sure the primary circuit of the new coil is 5 OHMS, otherwise you will damage your XT ECU.

Thank you Kev, I dont know about coil but just cable fakat yeterli. but its enough it have big spark :blob8:http://www.nology.com/hotwork.html
thay said %10 fuel and more torque & hp, I see first that at OTR thay said same too.But I will try :) :drillsergeant:
thank you again

IS that 8bhp on top of whatever i have subtract the stage 1 and 2 giving a realistic 4-5bhp ?

or 8 on top of what i have now with a stage 1 and 2 ?

Show me a dyno print out from a XT660 of a before & after with a 10% gain from just changing a HT lead from 9KOhms to 1KOhm then I would believe it. I have done quite a bit of research on the XT660 HT coil & there might be a gain but not 4.5 to 5.5hp.

From the research that I have found on the web, by changing the complete coil & lead might show a 1hp gain, the bigger the engine build the greater the effect, Freez & I have discussed this topic in private via PMs recently.

My bike produced 7.2HP gain dyno tested from the stage 3 airbox, carbon cans & custom a made fuel map with a PCIII, DNA produced a dyno run of 8HP gain with the stage 3 air box. It can go up to 14HP
dyno tested by DNA with a big bore & cam. The more you make the engine breath the more HP will be had from the stage 3 airbox.

Green line stage 3 air box, blue line stage 1 & 2 DNA filters with snorkel removed, red line standard XT660. All the tests were carried out on the same bike.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...evxtx/3-31.jpg

Thanks Kev

gooo blue line :icon_king:

A quote for another coil company, about the capacitor leads made by Nology.

"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES with grounded metal braiding over jacket

The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by Nology, a manufacturer of ignition wires promoted as "the only spark plug wires with built-in capacitor." Nology's "HotWires" (called "Plasma Leads" in the UK) consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially fitted. The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from part of the braiding. Insulating covers are fitted over the braided metal sleeves. These wires are well constructed. For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires." In a demonstration, the use of resistor plugs with "HotWires" will nullify the visual effect of the brighter spark.

Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have come and gone all over the world for (at least) the last 30 years, and similar wires were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing problems on early fuel injected engines and RFI problems on fiberglass bodied cars � only to find other problems were created. The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue) test showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon conductor wires).

The perceived effect a brighter spark, conducted by an ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a braided metal sleeve (shield) grounded to the engine, jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being re-discovered and cleverly demonstrated by marketers who convince themselves there's monetary value in such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely un-provable claims are made for this phenomena.

Like many in the past, Nology cleverly demonstrates a brighter free-air spark containing useless flash-over created by the crude "capacitor" (effect) of this style of wire. In reality, the bright spark has no more useful energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon conductor wire. What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braided metal sleeve around the ignition wire's jacket. To test the validity of this statement, ask the Nology demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much energy is sparking to ground.

Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F" (more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4 billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in "capacitors" allegedly "built-in" to the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and the price asked for these wires! Most stock ignition primaries are regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.

It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use this style of wires if not grounded to the engine with grounding straps, as the outside of the braided cables will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or anybody) nearby.

Unless you are prepared to accept poorly suppressed ignition wires that fail sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists', resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after Nology wires are fitted. Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any new ignition wires make an engine run better.
OTHER DEVICES CLAIMING TO INCREASE SPARKS:

Never be fooled by any device that is fitted between the ignition coil and the distributor, and/or distributor and the spark plugs (sometimes in place of ignition wires) for which claims of increased power, multiple sparks, and better fuel economy are made. These devices have come and gone over the last 50 years, and usually consists of a sealed container in which the spark is forced to jump an additional gap or is partially induced to ground on its way to the spark plug gap. These devices can also be cleverly demonstrated to produce sparks the human eye perceives as being "more powerful." The only "increase" a gullible consumer can expect from these devices is an undesirable increase in load on their vehicle's ignition system."

Hello Kev,
Yes I get all about nology cable :) but its late for me I get it.
I wil try it.Off The Road.de using this cable if they are talk like a spiel
its not good.
then I see that OTR use this cable all that bikes
my dreams are breaking down :moonshine[1]: what ever.
Thank you Kev now I know "If I buy something, first I ask you all"

I still love my machine.:007:

No problem mate, let us know if there is any improvement using the cable.

Absolutely mate very soon, now I more wonder, how it work.
then I will try with my new tires Pirelli Diablo :) I bought lot of things :)

Thank you again mate..

I will be testing one of these soon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380239852358&viewitem= &sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

thats seems good mate, because its dynatek
well then we wait your test

I am as technically orientated as a Buddist Monk, but he doesn't have a bike.

I thought this morning I would try the first stages here, hoik the snorkel, drill the holes, fuel mod. Following the instructions no problems.

Oh My God, what an amazing difference. I took the bike out on my favourite bit of French road and just had probably the best ride yet, the bends just flowed....Stunning.

Kev, you are the Saint of Airbox mods, should there ever be a need for one. And as for the Buddist monk, he would do better to hang up his robes, put the donkey out to pasture , and get himself an XT.....Modified of course

PS: Will I really notice a difference with a stage 1 and even a stage 2 filter ? If its yes, then I must go forth and get one