Thanks Kev, i understand a bit better now.

Kev, allow me to demonstrate my newbie ignorance. :D

I do accept that your fuel mod works. Fact. But doesn't the CO adjustment via the clocks also adjust the mixture? If the CO adjustment provides smooth running after mods, is this not sufficient for all but those wanting to wring every last horsepower out of the bike?

Guys you do not have to buy my fuel mods there is plenty options out there, I do not make these mods to make money out of them but to help with an alternative option in fuel mods., all I am doing is giving all the correct information to make your bike run well with all the added mods.

The C0 in the dash only adjusts part throttle fuelling meaning it can only adjust the A/F ratio between a TPS value of 16 & 18 which is from idle to around 2% throttle after that the ECU switches over to a pre-programmed fuel map written by Yamaha, if you change the A/F ratio by increasing air flow the bike will run leaner on the Yamaha programed Fuel map, the only way to correct the A/F ratio is to fit a fuelling device that can change the Yamaha programed map, if you have an O2 sensor you need to control that circuit as well the only two O2 mods that have been proven to work are Dynojet O2 optimizer or my 2012 O2 controller mod. By controlling both the closed & open loop programed maps you are able to get the A/F ratio back into the performance zone of around 13.2:1.

Hope that makes it a little clearer for you, please do not feel pressurized into doing any mods to your bike this is not what we are about on this forum.

Kev is the best. I am non technical but I fitted the Kev fuel mod myself and blimey, wot a difference it makes. I now have a no-jerk bike with fun all the way thro the rev range!!! I use this bike all year round and I cannot often get the smile off my face, it makes riding to work real fun!!!!

Is it really that much better?

Let me summarise where I'm coming from. I have a BMW K1300S that I've been putting about 10,000 miles a year on. 2000 mile tours and 1 mile trips across town to visit mates. The lot. I had a little spare cash and decided I wanted a bike to complement the K13 - to be a lighter, fun run-around, a little off-road and perhaps a route to an adventure. Hence the low-mileage XTR. But...I have no desire to "tune-up" the XTR for performance. It's 47hp, not 175hp like the K13, and I knew that when I bought it. All I'm after is reliability and no hassle. If my bike will really be transformed by the fuel mod then sign me up, but in the 200 miles I've done since I bought it 2 weeks ago, I must say I don't have a problem with the bike as-is.

Thanks for all the help.

A fuel mod is used to correct the Air/fuel ratio, the out right max gains is from the combination of the added mods running at the correct A/F ratio.

A stage 2 DNA air filter is what wakes these motors up, but the intake noise is not for everyone, what I am trying to say is if you are happy with your bike leave it as it is.

Took mine out for the first time this week and I now know what you chaps mean about surge!
I'm a relative new rider and this phenomenon took what confidence I had away very fast.
Am I right in thinking the the fuel mod will eliminate this issue?
I love the bike but can't ride it as it is...

Go for it!

Kev is there any advantage to air intake to drill the holes even when i have stage 1&2 dna filters and would it do any harm if i did?

Does the air filter get much dirtier with the snorkel removed?