.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. - Idiots guide needed loose final drive nut

.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. ( https://www.xt660.com/index.php)

- Engine & Gearbox ( https://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=206)

- - Idiots guide needed loose final drive nut ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24491)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schnidely (Post 214462)

I have a whirring rattle from the right hand side only on initial startup. Then it disappears. If it was the crank nut I feel the sound would be heard more often.

The decompression mechanism, more specifically the decompressor pin in the camshaft, is quite a common cause for unexplained rattles. Although it's on the left hand side, the noises get transmitted all over the place and it's hard to pin point.

Read this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 214594)

Cheers Pleiades. Just done a post on ask Kev. Didn't see your reply till today. The story continues

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24638

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexander (Post 214562)

Maybe the starter clutch?

Hey up Alexander. My sounds seems to wander all over the place but am sure it's coming from the cam area. Will have a look tomorrow not sure what to look for though

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A great addition to a very informative thread Pepsi. This is one of a few threads I have in my 'Subscription's' so is easy to find if & when the need arises. Thanks.

It will be interesting to know about the Selecter arm when your all finished & tested.

P.S fantastic updated Honda pic. Good to see your keeping up with the times !! ;-)

Recently completed a 5000K ride and on return home, parked the bike up in the shed, while I attended to some family matters...

Next thing I know a month had passed by without riding, so a mate and I decided to head North for a day of Forest roads.

The Tenere was running fine, right up till when I started it after a lunch stop...Initially I thought my helmet was loose, as the bike sounded like someone was shaking a pile of nuts and bolts in a coffee tin.

Had a close listen with my helmet off, and initially suspected the worse. However, after a few minutes more listening, I was quite confident I knew what the problem was.

When I got home, I immediately consulted the spare parts book, and made out an order for case gaskets, tab washer and water pump gasket and O-ring.

Quite a simple teardown if you have the tools, and it was immediately obvious the "NUT" was loose. Fortunately, I have a 36mm socket in my kit. Took the advice proffered here, and torqued it up to 100Nm (as opposed to 80Nm quoted in the Service Manual) and then commenced cleaning the old gaskets from the case faces.

Re assembly was easy enough, my only difference to the advice offered here was to anneal the copper oil line washers rather than replacing them.

Now simply a matter of filling with oil and coolant, fingers crossed, all will be quiet on start up.

Just fired the "10" up and it ticks over like a Swiss Watch...and....no leaks to report

Good result Seahorse. ...not something you want to happen in the middle of nowhere! . And having fixed it yourself you know its done right! Steve

Nicely done Seahorse. It's always a relief when a plan comes together.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 213767)

Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.

http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58

Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:

2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
1.2L of coolant
Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
Right hand crankcase cover gasket
Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
Crankcase cover oil seal
A new tab washer for the final drive nut
A 36mm socket and torque wrench

First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.

Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.

Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.

To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.

Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!

Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.

Fantastic guide, thanks. I'm sure mine is knocking abit from tha area, so will order some gaskets etc. Just got to find some time to do it, roughly how long does it take to do this job?