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-   -   Idiots guide needed loose final drive nut ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24491)

robmoz 29-08-15 08:13
Idiots guide needed loose final drive nut
 
As the title says I'm after an idiots guide for tightening the final drive nut. I've a rattle coming from the right side and listening to diff vids with that problem it sounds similar.



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Pleiades 29-08-15 10:13
Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.

http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58

Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:
  • 2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
  • 1.2L of coolant
  • Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
  • Right hand crankcase cover gasket
  • Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
  • Crankcase cover oil seal
  • A new tab washer for the final drive nut
  • A 36mm socket and torque wrench

First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.

Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.

Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.

To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.

Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!

Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.

Pleiades 29-08-15 12:27
Oh, and I just found this link for you...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=23951

bikemad195 29-08-15 13:53
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoz (Post 213761)
As the title says I'm after an idiots guide for tightening the final drive nut. I've a rattle coming from the right side and listening to diff vids with that problem it sounds similar.



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do u often catch the limiter? ive done mine 3 times but ive now realised if i dont hit the limiter it seems fine ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nyk4PWGVQgw

robmoz 29-08-15 14:03
Wow lads that's great. Huge thanks


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robmoz 29-08-15 17:14
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikemad195 (Post 213774)
do u often catch the limiter? ive done mine 3 times but ive now realised if i dont hit the limiter it seems fine ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nyk4PWGVQgw

Not often to be honest. I mostly hear it when i first start the engine. Not so bad later


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bikemad195 29-08-15 19:11
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoz (Post 213776)
Not often to be honest. I mostly hear it when i first start the engine. Not so bad later


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it must just of been me who kept vibrating it loose then lol

robmoz 01-09-15 09:24
Dam rattle. Can't make out where it's coming from.


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Pleiades 01-09-15 17:31
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoz (Post 213893)
Dam rattle. Can't make out where it's coming from.
The other common(ish) cause of rattles is the decompressor pin, especially if it's round the left hand side and from the top end. If the head has been off your bike then someone could have put the refitted the pin/mechanism incorrectly?

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24187

robmoz 02-09-15 17:51
Cheers Pleiades. Doesn't sound like that. Will let you know how the final drive but goes. Getting things sorted now


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robmoz 03-09-15 20:05
Think my biggest concern is taking off the gasket n putting em back on correctly


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robmoz 11-09-15 11:48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 213767)
Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.



http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58



Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:


  • 2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
  • 1.2L of coolant
  • Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
  • Right hand crankcase cover gasket
  • Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
  • Crankcase cover oil seal
  • A new tab washer for the final drive nut
  • A 36mm socket and torque wrench



First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.



Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.



Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.



To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.



Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!



Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.

Hi Pleiades does it look like I'll need 6 banjo washers? I have 4 but looking at it there is another banjo bolt that's coming on top of the oil filter to the engine.


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robmoz 11-09-15 11:50
Forgot the pics http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...cf57af4972.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...9e071fa7d6.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...3348987a4b.jpg


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Pleiades 11-09-15 20:33
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoz (Post 214194)
Hi Pleiades does it look like I'll need 6 banjo washers? I have 4 but looking at it there is another banjo bolt that's coming on top of the oil filter to the engine.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that one. Easily forgotten when you've got an XTZ as it's completely hidden behind the coolant reservoir!

Yes, you will need six if you remove the gearbox transfer pipe completely. You can leave one end or the gearbox transfer pipe attached to the either the crankcase or the cover though, so only a total of two banjos are disturbed doing the job.

robmoz 11-09-15 22:35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 214206)
Sorry, I forgot to mention that one. Easily forgotten when you've got an XTZ as it's completely hidden behind the coolant reservoir!

Yes, you will need six if you remove the gearbox transfer pipe completely. You can leave one end or the gearbox transfer pipe attached to the either the crankcase or the cover though, so only a total of two banjos are disturbed doing the job.

Mate no need to say sorry at all. I really appreciate the help


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robmoz 12-09-15 10:58
Trying to find the torque settings banjo bolts etc. can't see it on the manuals


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Pleiades 12-09-15 11:04
Not tight! 10Nm. Just enough to crush the washers.

robmoz 12-09-15 12:05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 214232)
Not tight! 10Nm. Just enough to crush the washers.

You recommend sealant paste?


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Pleiades 12-09-15 15:01
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoz (Post 214233)
You recommend sealant paste?
I personally always reckon that you shouldn't need gasket sealant if the mating surfaces are clean, unscratched and you're refitting with a new good quality gasket. If I'm at all worried about the joint I tend to use a very thin smear of blue Hylomar on the mating surfaces, which is a non-setting sealant.

robmoz 17-09-15 12:00
Update.

Well stripped her down and the bloody but is solid. Looks like it's been off before. Tested the tightness and it's around 110nm.

Did find this on the clutch very loose https://vimeo.com/139567206


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robmoz 17-09-15 13:00
Well put the clutch cover back on and the clutch now has no tension. Must be something I'm doing wrong but not sure what


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robmoz 17-09-15 13:42
It gets worse. Just snapped some teeth on this http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...7b82269d4b.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...e2114743a9.jpg


Anyone know what it's called so I can order a new one


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robmoz 17-09-15 14:09
Well taken the pet to my local garage. They have ordered the part and replacing it for me.
Bloody nightmare lol


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Pleiades 17-09-15 21:29
Looks like the teeth on the end of the push rod axle weren't engage properly with the teeth on the pull rod, which is why the clutch would it wouldn't move the clutch and why the teeth got mashed. You probably had the teeth on the pull rod (sticking out the clutch assembly) facing the wrong way when you assembled it?

If that's all that's broken, then it's not too labour intensive to replace. They'll just have to pop the circlip of the bottom of the axle, slide it out and pop a new one in. The worst part is the fact that the axle is about fifty quid.

Anyway, hopefully you'll be back on the road soon.

Just out of interest... was the crank nut loose in the end?

robmoz 17-09-15 22:10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 214400)
Looks like the teeth on the end of the push rod axle weren't engage properly with the teeth on the pull rod, which is why the clutch would it wouldn't move the clutch and why the teeth got mashed. You probably had the teeth on the pull rod (sticking out the clutch assembly) facing the wrong way when you assembled it?

If that's all that's broken, then it's not too labour intensive to replace. They'll just have to pop the circlip of the bottom of the axle, slide it out and pop a new one in. The worst part is the fact that the axle is about fifty quid.

Anyway, hopefully you'll be back on the road soon.

Just out of interest... was the crank nut loose in the end?

Cheers and once again a huge thank you. Nope bloody thing as tight as a nuts knacker. Are all xt' part interchangeable. Just looking at a clutch cover for a xt660r not sure if it will fit. I've an xt660x 2010


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Pleiades 17-09-15 22:11
Yes. The clutch cover is interchangeable. It should be OK.

robmoz 17-09-15 22:38
Ok cheers pal. Much appreciated


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Schnidely 20-09-15 04:21
Hey Robmoz, I have a whirring rattle from the right hand side only on initial startup. Then it disappears. If it was the crank nut I feel the sound would be heard more often. Interested to hear your results so keep us posted please.

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Alexander 23-09-15 01:34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnidely (Post 214462)
Hey Robmoz, I have a whirring rattle from the right hand side only on initial startup. Then it disappears. If it was the crank nut I feel the sound would be heard more often. Interested to hear your results so keep us posted please.

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Maybe the starter clutch?

Schnidely 23-09-15 01:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander (Post 214562)
Maybe the starter clutch?
Can the starter clutch whirr/rattle for several minutes after starting? It doesnt increase when revs are raised.

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Pleiades 23-09-15 21:40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnidely (Post 214462)
I have a whirring rattle from the right hand side only on initial startup. Then it disappears. If it was the crank nut I feel the sound would be heard more often.
The decompression mechanism, more specifically the decompressor pin in the camshaft, is quite a common cause for unexplained rattles. Although it's on the left hand side, the noises get transmitted all over the place and it's hard to pin point.

Read this.

robmoz 01-10-15 14:05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 214594)
The decompression mechanism, more specifically the decompressor pin in the camshaft, is quite a common cause for unexplained rattles. Although it's on the left hand side, the noises get transmitted all over the place and it's hard to pin point.



Read this.

Cheers Pleiades. Just done a post on ask Kev. Didn't see your reply till today. The story continues

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24638


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robmoz 01-10-15 14:16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander (Post 214562)
Maybe the starter clutch?

Hey up Alexander. My sounds seems to wander all over the place but am sure it's coming from the cam area. Will have a look tomorrow not sure what to look for though


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Desert Racer 09-02-16 15:46
A great addition to a very informative thread Pepsi. This is one of a few threads I have in my 'Subscription's' so is easy to find if & when the need arises. Thanks.

It will be interesting to know about the Selecter arm when your all finished & tested.

P.S fantastic updated Honda pic. Good to see your keeping up with the times !! ;-)

Seahorse 31-10-16 00:19
Recently completed a 5000K ride and on return home, parked the bike up in the shed, while I attended to some family matters...

Next thing I know a month had passed by without riding, so a mate and I decided to head North for a day of Forest roads.

The Tenere was running fine, right up till when I started it after a lunch stop...Initially I thought my helmet was loose, as the bike sounded like someone was shaking a pile of nuts and bolts in a coffee tin.

Had a close listen with my helmet off, and initially suspected the worse. However, after a few minutes more listening, I was quite confident I knew what the problem was.

When I got home, I immediately consulted the spare parts book, and made out an order for case gaskets, tab washer and water pump gasket and O-ring.

Quite a simple teardown if you have the tools, and it was immediately obvious the "NUT" was loose. Fortunately, I have a 36mm socket in my kit. Took the advice proffered here, and torqued it up to 100Nm (as opposed to 80Nm quoted in the Service Manual) and then commenced cleaning the old gaskets from the case faces.

Re assembly was easy enough, my only difference to the advice offered here was to anneal the copper oil line washers rather than replacing them.

Now simply a matter of filling with oil and coolant, fingers crossed, all will be quiet on start up.

Seahorse 31-10-16 07:14
Just fired the "10" up and it ticks over like a Swiss Watch...and....no leaks to report

greatescape 31-10-16 08:32
Good result Seahorse. ...not something you want to happen in the middle of nowhere! . And having fixed it yourself you know its done right! Steve

Desert Racer 31-10-16 10:55
Nicely done Seahorse. It's always a relief when a plan comes together.

Taipan 21-03-19 10:50
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 213767)
Dealing with the nut itself is relatively easy, it�s the just a bit of a faff removing everything to get to it. It is worth your while (as a supporter) downloading the free Yamaha Service Manual before you begin.

http://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=58

Otherwise, before you start you will need to make sure you have got the following at hand:
  • 2.9L of engine oil (and filter if you want to change that)
  • 1.2L of coolant
  • Water pump �O�-ring and gasket
  • Right hand crankcase cover gasket
  • Oil transfer pipe banjo crush washers
  • Crankcase cover oil seal
  • A new tab washer for the final drive nut
  • A 36mm socket and torque wrench

First remove the water pump. Drain the engine oil (from tank and sump) and coolant using the coolant drain screw on water pump body (lower left hand bolt). Reinsert and tighten the drain screw when finished. Remove the hoses from the water pump body. You can remove the water pump as a whole unit by just undoing the three bolts with the recessed hex (Allen) heads (leave the other two in place). You can now take out the water pump.

Next take off the rear brake pedal. Then detach the oil transfer pipe from the crankcase cover.

Finally undo all the cover bolts working diagonally (undo opposing bolts in turn. Pull off the cover watching you don�t lose the two dowels.

To remove the crank nut normally you would have to lock the primary gears in place with a rag, wedge or I use an old leather belt, but if it�s loose, you won�t have to bother. Remove the tab washer and tighten the nut. Although it says tighten to 80Nm in the manual, we do know that those who have taken their bike to the dealer to have this problem rectified have had it tightened to 105Nm. Refit the tab washer and bend up the tabs.

Refitting the right hand crankcase cover is the reverse of taking it off except for the fitting of a new gasket and oil pipe crush washers (banjo bolt is 20Nm). You can also at this point fit a new oil seal in the back of the cover (under a retaining plate with two bolts), but this isn�t always necessary. Don�t forget to replace the water pump �O�-ring and any water pump gaskets you�ve disturbed. The torque for the cover bolts is only 10Nm, which isn�t that tight, so be careful!

Refit the hoses, brake pedal etc. Change the oil filter if you want, then fill the engine oil and coolant.
Fantastic guide, thanks. I'm sure mine is knocking abit from tha area, so will order some gaskets etc. Just got to find some time to do it, roughly how long does it take to do this job?


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