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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques le Roux (Post 208634)

Thanks for that. I already have the Leo Vince back pipes (sadly 2 not one). So some weight off the back. If I had the funds, I'd love a YZ front fork wheel single disc (but a bit too expensive for me) as this will also fix the short travel lightly sprung front. Probably just change springs on this. The steel frame, although heavy, I can live with as this makes the back really strong for loading and easy fix if it gets broken (!!!!).
Wonder how the Tenere will handle with 11" travel front fork and 7" (normal or aftermarket) back shock. The rims and the hubs are the main culprits, and I wonder if there is an economical make it lighter fix on these?

I agree with you. I prefer a strong and easy to rebuild stell frame for this kind of bike.
Change the suspensions make a dramatic improvement in the bike. Without this change I wouldn't participate in the rallyes. I know it is expensive but is the bes inversion I made in the bike.
Try to find a used YZ or WR front wheel/fork, there aren't expensive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacques le Roux (Post 208579)

Is there any obvious places on the Tenere where you can save weight? The cans are the obvious one. Which place is next? I was thinking the reliability of the engine is great, although its quite low on power. By making the bike lighter you get the same effect as more power (without fiddling with the engine and losing reliability) and less to lug around.

You can save weight by not putting on too much sh!t :)

so no crashbars or the smallest available. Not hard cases, but soft luggage etc.

But some weight savings:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...113_221459.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...113_221434.jpg
- change battery, lithium is lightest, but Motobatt is also lighter ~800gr

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...o/DSC_0206.JPG
- s-moto tail tidy compared to original ~600gr

but the numbers wont be that big

- Maybe changing forks and triple tree/yoke? But i dont have any numbers
- changing from double front discs to single
- Excel wheels & Talon hubs, but again, nu numbers available. I can weigh mine, but someone else has to weigh the original
- keep plastic bashplate, no alumunumum :icon_study:
- passenger footpegs
- replacing headers when MTC brings out an aftermarket set ( http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=23807 )

and then there's some other minimal weight savings:
- handlebars from standard steel to amulininium :icon_pirat:
- ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaumeV (Post 209133)

How you did weighed? what system?

well, very basic:

i put the front of the bike on a bathroom scale, and then the back. I did this a couple of times and used the average, because measuring wasnt that easy, because a little movement of the bike meant a change of weight on the scale.

It's not exactly scientific, but gives a rough idea

Ok, I did more or less the same.. thanks

Interesting stuff. :eusa_think:

Quote:

Originally Posted by dommiek (Post 208599)

I think the best weight saving mods to do are to find a lighter front hub and go down to a single disc/caliper then to change the standard silencer

Perhaps the cheapest, easiest, best and most effective way to shed weight is off your own body (if you've got room to). There's little point in scrabbling round for the odd few grams here and there on the bike (at great expense) if you could lose 10-20Kg yourself! Even emptying your bladder and taking a dump before a ride will save as much weight as a lithium battery would! ;)

Power/weight ratio is the biggest beneficiary of a trim rider. Let's assume a baseline of a stock bike, with no rider with 43.5 rear wheel hp (rwhp) and 206Kg (wet). This gives a power to weight ratio of 211rwhp/tonne.

Stock bike with 70Kg rider on board = 158rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 80Kg rider on board = 152rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 90Kg rider on board = 147rwhp/tonne

Stock bike with 100Kg rider on board = 142rwhp/tonne

The difference between the 70Kg and 100Kg rider is about the equivalent of fitting a PCV, DNA stage 2 and a set of cans, which would probably set you back �600+!

Also petrol has a mass of 737g/L, so your bike will have the same power to weight ratio advantage as loosing 10Kg if you run it with no more than 10 litres in the tank.

I know the above theory doesn't help with unsprung mass, but the rider's mass sits almost entirely above the bike's centre of gravity, so has a very significant effect on handling as well as power to weight ratio.

I see where you are all coming from, and I too have tried to minimise the bike's unnecessary additional mass as much as possible, but other than junking the standard exhaust, it's all small stuff.

Less pies = more power! ;)

Right, I'm off to gym...

I'm 70kgs so I don't have much margin to loose wheigt but your theory is very accurate. :hello2:

I'm 64kgs and would like to be 10kgs more (in muscle mass preferably) to handle the big ol' tractor of ours better, talk about different perspectives ha ha :-)

Hi JaumeV, inspiring pictures as ever..., looks like the bike did you proud! Steve

Thanks Steve
Yes the bike works great as always.

Here you have some videos of the 3 first days, enjoy: http://traildreamer.com/marruecos-20...primeros-dias/