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Like the wheels
Looks great, I like the look of the wheel rims in white. I'm envious of your mechanical abilities, I just end up bolting TT stuff on.
I was considering upgrading my Ten to a KTM 990adv R, as I find myself doing more and more metalled roads and very little dirt. Are you still happy with the Ten? Don't you miss the KTMs power? |
I do not miss KTM power at all. On terrain it is strog enough to spin, so no need for much more. But I ride alot on dirt. If I would ride more on asphalt, traveling in two, and more long distance, than I would prefer KTM 990, as I had before Tenere.
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Ni3ous, your bike looks really good, you do good work.
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Good pictures there and its seems you have been busy
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Hello!
So far I am using original air filter on Tenere XT660Z, but its time to change it. I intended to buy DNA since its cheaper and has better air flow than K&N. But I ride offroad alot, and sometimes in dusty conditions. (especially problem when group riding) So now i am thinking to buy an OTR foam air filter. But I am not sure what would be the right decision. Can you explain pros and cons of using different (original one "paper", DNA, or foam filter) air filters on Tenere XT660Z ? I cant find any good explanations about this. I am also interested in snorkel removal, but I think I have too much dirty offroading, and dirt will get in. If not when riding, than when I high pressure clean it. After my last ride, I removed seat, and there was a lot of dirt on snorkel, If I hadnt have snorkel, dirt would be in the airbox. Thanks for answers. |
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Hello!
Thanks for reply. I ordered it yesterday on Touratech! Your answer gived me another confirmation, I ordered the right stuff. Will report about the change and the feel. |
nice work Ni3ous, I wish I had tools/place/skill to work on my bike like you! keep up the good work and take pictures, i like the picutures and simple explanation :)
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Thanks Joseph.
I have some work to do this weekend for Tunisia preparation, so I will make some report out of it. |
I finally managed to fit UNIFILTER bought from Touratech.
http://shrani.si/f/3t/OW/33c3QuTc/img5696.jpg I decided to buy this one, since they have good reputation, it is original filter for Australian Teneres (thats what I was told...), has wire cage, so its more durable, and suppose to be good choise for Sahara and the dunes, we will ride in Tunisia in 3 weeks. http://shrani.si/f/3C/Ik/14DQmLVG/img5697.jpg I oiled it with Motul AIR FILTER OIL SPRAY http://shrani.si/f/2U/kW/1rvLkS5A/img5701.jpg When oiled its gets really sticky and the colour is slightly blue. http://shrani.si/f/25/J2/1lFjLYb4/img5708.jpg While oil is getting in the foam I worked on the snorkle http://shrani.si/f/U/SW/1GoIvwb8/img5693.jpg The look on the original filter http://shrani.si/f/s/2Q/3VtIzXdu/img5694.jpg UNIFILTER fitted in the airbox http://shrani.si/f/2V/Ih/3YlCMYU2/img5710.jpg I decided to keep the snorkle, since sand in the Sahara will not get in the airbox that fast. http://shrani.si/f/3K/9L/3PZ9JS7u/img5711.jpg Airfilter change completed. |
4000€ worth TIG welding machine arrived this weekend!
http://shrani.si/f/3a/Mk/cZsd4ql/img5681.jpg So its time to change this worn out homemade exhaust. http://www.shrani.si/f/2p/3R/9baJMeK/koncan-lonc.jpg So new one is welding together. This two pipes need to be welded also. http://shrani.si/f/P/11M/4hiwPJ7F/img5683.jpg http://shrani.si/f/41/fD/3XW7rxSN/img5685.jpg Weld is looking good. http://shrani.si/f/u/gi/1aD0ynH1/img5689.jpg Welding hooks for springs for the SLIP ON http://shrani.si/f/J/wA/4DoU2L6z/img5690.jpg Flawless finished! And looks much better than the exhaust I removed. Sound is great and strong, power also. I got lucky to live in the birth place (country) of Akrapovič. http://shrani.si/f/38/U3/4OW5mYmK/img5769.jpg |
By now we did a lot of things, so cviček (slovenian red wine) was getting into us. So hunger was strong, so I choped some homemade salami, union, and bread, which went perfect with the cviček from our vinyard.
Mmmm, tasty! :) http://shrani.si/f/3t/sP/1uejexoy/img5713.jpg Next "to do" thing was changing original low quality sprocket rubbers... Old ones in the hub, and they were wedged with some more rubber, besause of deformation, and too much freeplay. http://shrani.si/f/B/XB/4qHfkkMY/img5721.jpg New one (ordered from Off the road) fitted inside sprocket hub. http://shrani.si/f/2t/Hq/4lfRvU1h/img5724.jpg Sprocket hub fitted in the wheel hub. Now sprocket has no freeplay, fits perfect and the power will be transfered to the wheel smothly. I advise changing original rubbers very soon, to prevent damaging whellbearings or even worse, damaging wheelbearing socket. http://shrani.si/f/28/He/1QiKPFEN/img5728.jpg Next thing to do was changing front 13 tooth sprocket i use for offroading, for 15 tooth sprocket for the traveling on road to Tunisia. I ussually unvind the nut with compressor airgun, but this time it did not work. It is dangerous to force it with airgun, since eventually you can damagge transmition. http://shrani.si/f/42/5V/2ohU1b8U/img5731.jpg In this situation you should use big metal plate to put it between sprocket and chassis, to fix it tight and strong. This way you do not stress gearbox or chain. http://shrani.si/f/3r/VE/2eFbRkns/img5749.jpg Metal plate should be positioned like this: http://shrani.si/f/3h/Uq/4KhIXSEK/img5751.jpg You need to work in pair for this. Give it a 2 meter leverage on the tool for inwinding the nut... Be carefull to work anti clockwise for unwinding. http://shrani.si/f/13/NY/INyLuK0/img5752.jpg And its done. http://shrani.si/f/3a/Be/1p4cHLcz/img5753.jpg I think this is the best way to do this yob, in case you have issues with front sprocket bolt. |
After 15 000 km on the clock I decided to change the spark plug for NGK Iridium. Thank got I used the original tool for changing, it so I found out, the original tool is crap, so I choped it to fit better, and changing is simple now, since the tool is not too long, and is now there enough space to reach spark plug when changing.
New and old one, and chopped tool ( if you chop it, dont chop it too much, because you have to make another hole which needs to be higher than the spark plug when in the tool. http://shrani.si/f/3W/Gf/1A0WUR6h/img5734.jpg Old one is still good enough for reserve, so I packed it in the tool, on the way it does not take any extra space, and save it in the toolwrap I carry on the bike. http://shrani.si/f/a/JF/3QlmuBYD/img5738.jpg http://shrani.si/f/L/F2/48d4TvFK/img5739.jpg I still have some old (partly broken, but still usable to save the situation on the trip) brake and clutch levers. I decided to pack it under the plastics. Under left plastic there is left (clutch) lever, on the right there is right (brake) lever ducttaped. http://shrani.si/f/2C/R4/4uwjM4UX/img5745.jpg Did I mention that ducttape rules? http://shrani.si/f/X/sX/4cYm8Icf/img5746.jpg I love ducttape, zipties and WD40. This products are fabulous. Ou and I also love dinamite too... :) This Is the material I worked with in the past few jobs, and I calculated, that these things are way too expensive, since this pile costed me around 100€, and I do get discounts. http://shrani.si/f/3h/B6/1FzKP9Zc/img5771.jpg |
Nice work mate.
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Superb writeup and pics although I doubt the tape will hold in hot weather.
i also carry spare levers but keep them in my tool bag with the rest of my spares. I will do the spark plug mod as you have pointed out. I did know that it is too long but you have now prompted me into action. Keep the ideas coming..:toot: |
That's a good idea using the space behind the panels for infrequently needed tools and spares. Nice one.
I'm another one who keeps forgetting to get round to trimming the spark plug tool! In fact I'll go and do it now... |
Is there not a danger of damaging the fuel tank in a big tumble with an angular object under the plastics? I would be a bit nervous but I could be wrong. I was under the impression that the gap between the plastics and the tank were to act as a compression zone which would be removed/reduced. Just a thought. The rest of the work looks great though and I wish I could weld like that.
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I would also put it in the tool bag, but there is full of stuff, that I need more often than the levers. |
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Like Pleiades said, there is no danger damaging fuel tank, because the levers are lower than the tank. I have hit the bike on the side many many times, and I never hit it with an angle or object, that would indager damaging fuel tank with the levers behind the panels. You can see on the picture below the red line is seen the line where the tank sits ( the line is made by manny hits on the ground) Red arrow shows the side, where the tank is closely to the panel, below that line, there is room for a fist. So the lever is safely below that line. But I would advise on the right side panel, to put the lever a bit more to the back side, so the lever is not too close to the radiator and radiator pipe. I did thought about it, and that was the only possible danger I noticed. Again, I hope I am right. http://shrani.si/f/42/x/47azykf1/side-plastic.jpg |
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Cheers |
Really nice work. :clap:
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Just to let you all know.... Tape under the side plates did hold our last 14 day sahara adventure, and spare levers did not fall of them. But I will make closer inspection soon, to check it if its right on place as I left them. You can check the trip here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770676 |
Bash plate
Some of you PM-ed me for blueprints of the bash plate, so also sticking it here, if anyone interested to build one on his own.
Here you have simple template to start with. Other stuff you will neeed to improvise as I did. http://shrani.si/f/23/qG/2bmQApny/1/...bash-plate.jpg http://www.shrani.si/f/2r/w2/3LgyHzf4/img3618.jpg |
This is one of my last upgrades...
Since original Tenere rear rim is 17", its not the best size for offroading in many ways. I decided to put 18" rear wheel on my Tenere. That way I have more tire options for off roading, better ground clearance, better traction, rim lock for lower air pressure... Since new Excel rims are expensive, I searched ebay for any used DID or Excel 18" rim, that is 2,5 wide and with 36 spike holes. You can get such used rim from Yamaha XT 600, YZ490... I sand blasted it, gave it a powdercoat... Bought new thicker longer 18" spokes from OTR and put it together. http://shrani.si/f/3g/iz/3hXJjFhV/img20131123171120.jpg Spoke assembling finished and centered http://shrani.si/f/2j/Am/4QoWSXtG/cy...1125184613.jpg Tire and rim lock is on, also heavy duty 4-5mm Continental tube http://shrani.si/f/n/hX/1y5fxcWt/cym...1125210936.jpg Meanwhile also rear shock service was made http://shrani.si/f/E/s2/34PtjCBn/cym...1126183425.jpg Also had to change the sprockets, to keep the gear ratio. Since rear wheel is now bigger (you can put 1 tooth smaller sprocket in front, or 3 tooth bigger sprocket in the rear, too keep approximately the same gear ratio) http://shrani.si/f/1k/LZ/2icfqCMq/cy...1125212940.jpg Rear end is now completely serviced and ready for new adventures. I gave it a first test ride - off road, and it feels as expected. It seems to be great. http://shrani.si/f/2y/1h/4AJFGhJr/cy...10164120-1.jpg |
Suspension conversion YZ250F part 1.
Hello,
here are some latest upgrades... So I made some pics,and put additional information. If someone would like to do this conversion, it might help him. I bought Yamaha YZ250F 2004 complete front end. With this conversion you get: -from 230 mm (original) to 300 mm suspension travel. -stronger suspension, since YZ has 48 mm telescope diameter (original 42mm) -fully adjustable suspension (rebound and compression) -you loose astonishing 8,6 kg of weight, since YZ suspension is lighter, better materials, more aluminium used instead of regular steel! Removed original front end http://shrani.si/f/w/VW/3SBrpLOT/img3664.jpg http://shrani.si/f/2I/Xn/4P91gEJJ/img3676.jpg Upper triple clamp is lower for 3 cm, so if you use 3 cm handlebar risers, you will be back to original height. http://shrani.si/f/3i/cH/1kAVCmHM/img3679.jpg I used axle from the left, lower triple clamp (in the middle, from YZ), and triple clamp from the right (upper triple clamp from YZ) http://shrani.si/f/3X/R5/41eF6ncF/img3687.jpg To make it happen, you need hydraulic press, to remove axle from original triple clamp, and fit it to YZ triple clamp. http://shrani.si/f/1O/Zl/1OyynLDX/img20140531081948.jpg Upper triple clamp from YZ has slightly bigger axle hole, so you need to make bushing to make a tight fit. http://shrani.si/f/1I/ih/1Ywqko47/img20140531083914.jpg Set needed to fit to Yamaha Tenere is ready. Now we have here lower triple clamp from YZ, axle from Tenere, and upper triple clamp from YZ with fabricated bushing to make a proper fit. http://shrani.si/f/i/53/1xckxdnQ/img3689.jpg From here on, its an easy job. Assembling: http://shrani.si/f/20/t3/3ChinMVQ/img3692.jpg http://shrani.si/f/1v/12c/2KyimBWb/img3697.jpg http://shrani.si/f/1O/10q/1xRQIY94/img3694.jpg Fitted: http://shrani.si/f/23/mQ/1G25YheE/img20140531114259.jpg But conversion is not finished here. -To make bike really better, I still have to put oversize front brake disc and adapter for caliper, to improve braking as close as possible to original. -I have to put on stiffer springs (original YZ 3Nm) to 5Nm or 5,2Nm. Since bike is much heavier than YZ. -I have to make steering lock, so the triple clamp will not touch radiator. I will update these info also when I solve them. |
Tenere suspension upgrade part two
Thank you very much Pepsi.
Today my new springs arrived! So, since Tenere is much heavier than YZ, I had to find stiffer springs. I managed to find a specialist SLAVENS RACING, that was able to manufacture a special spring for my bikes characteristics. So he made for my setting 5,8 N/mm spring rate. While changing the springs, I also made a complete servise of the forks... Disasembling lower end http://shrani.si/f/46/DQ/4NR7eEEB/img45171.jpg Oil draining http://shrani.si/f/K/vw/3M41h3zQ/img45201.jpg disasembling upeer end http://shrani.si/f/13/TA/oNPdtsw/img45251.jpg Spring removal http://shrani.si/f/3g/WX/4JYzYsuC/img45271.jpg http://shrani.si/f/2F/22/3yCFT7Cu/img45341.jpg http://shrani.si/f/d/G/Drb3emr/img45361.jpg Removing dust cap and lock spring http://shrani.si/f/2O/Z9/2Qe96S9m/img45291.jpg Removing dust cap, spring, oil seal, inner bushing, outer bushing http://shrani.si/f/2u/8x/44uZu38b/img45461.jpg Putting on new parts http://shrani.si/f/o/Pc/1l3Fhnwe/img45501.jpg New spring is 10 mm longer and material is thicker http://shrani.si/f/U/vc/178FEjjK/img45571.jpg Assembling in back order... http://shrani.si/f/u/Uv/2sgOrT4F/img45591.jpg And test ride: http://shrani.si/f/h/f1/1pXIf53G/img45631.jpg Bike handles extremely well. Now literally eats, step roots, holes, rock,... you name it... Complete COMPRESSION/REBOUND setting and 30 cm of travel makes a huge difference. I should get oversize front brake disc and andapter this week, and put it on. Than the conversion is done. |
I want to everything you have done but alas my skills are zero.
Now if somebody sold a kit to make 2nd forks fit the tenere I bet they would sell well. Mike |
Congratullations!! very nice work.
I wish to have your mechanic skills!! BRAVO! |
Tenere suspension upgrade part III.
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... Finally last parts needed to finish my suspension upgrade arrived! Since Tenere is too heavy for original YZ 250 braking system, I had to upgrade it. I could bought 320 mm brake rotor but its just way too expensive for me, and does not work that much better, and its also heavy, and since its big, its more exposed to damages... So I bought 270 mm brake rotor from Gold Fren and adapter, to fit with the caliper. Originally YZ has 250 mm rotor disc, so 20 mm bigger rotor does not seem to be much bigger. But Gold Fren brake rotor is much better than original 10 years old YZ rotor. Materials are better and rotor is bigger. I also bought new sintered brake pads to fit with it. Original http://shrani.si/f/3a/9F/3WXhiKlm/img4568.jpg http://shrani.si/f/3s/6y/x0BosuB/img4569.jpg And 270 mm Gold Fren brake rotor http://shrani.si/f/b/l1/1wpGwweA/img4570.jpg Brake pads and adapter mounted http://shrani.si/f/1G/cP/3xvZ4KjA/img4575.jpg When I assembled all together i could not bleed the brakes... :wtfk: :017: Than I disasembled brake master cylinder, and found that one brake fluid seal is damaged http://shrani.si/f/2L/IX/4gg4BDa9/img4602.jpg So I changed complete brake master cylinder seals&kit and renew it completely http://shrani.si/f/3R/Lv/3CFkbOjt/img4583.jpg Assembling new kit http://shrani.si/f/j/10C/ZackfSy/img4586.jpg http://shrani.si/f/3k/VQ/44XkEGLd/img4587.jpg http://shrani.si/f/2Z/6O/4brZb207/img4588.jpg http://shrani.si/f/20/vV/1LDLCjiE/img4589.jpg Finished http://shrani.si/f/1L/o1/394Mcrqz/img4591.jpg After complete assembling and rebleeding the brakes, everything went well, and brake kit upgrade is done. http://shrani.si/f/3C/pQ/ZT4tvBt/img4594.jpg After that, test ride was finally on schedule. Suspension works great and brakes also. First test ride was done with original Tenere brake master cylinder and braking was hard, and not strong enough. With YZ brake master cylinder that changed a lot. Braking is now easy and soft. I can block front wheell any time, on all terrain, except on really good asphalt. Lets say there I have ABS. Brakes are now more than good enough for enduro riding. I would say, if fully loaded and with passenger, braking would not be efficient enough, but for my needs and riding style its just what I wished. This project is now finished! I hope information from here, will be helpful to other riders, who are thinking of such conversions. |
My Tenere XT660Z mods
Really good write up and pictures. Very well explained and I'm sure will be a great resource for others. :023:
Might even get round to doing a YZ fork job on mine one day, but I've always been a bit concerned about the stopping power with one disc. Like you say, it might not be up to a fully loaded bike - and I quite often do fully loaded! |
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I have a single 320mm disc and I break with two fingers even fully loaded in tarmac. I'm just arrived from a trip in the Alps with lot of hard breaking in the french "cols" and no problem at all. http://traildreamer.com/wp-content/u...6-1024x694.jpg |
Hello, I need to make a complete rebuild of my swingarm pivot bearings and bushings. Original Yamaha Tenere 2008-> is quite expensive.
Does anybody know for aftermarket solution? Set would look similar to this: http://shrani.si/f/39/k9/1LRVzkrK/10031181.jpg Any help appreciated! |
Maybe go to a local shop where they sell bearings?
Or if you know the sizes perhaps have look on Ebay? I see you have the barkbusters installed. I just put hem on my bike, but they interfere with the windscreen. I have a modified yoke and fork, from KTM though. And the handlebars are Magura X-Line EX. could you please post pictures of the handlebars turned to both sides? So I can see where your barkbusters end up? I'm suspecting my handlebars for being lower and this interfering with the windscreen... |
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http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xt_660_z_tenere/08-09/picture/swinging_arm_pivot_bearing_kit_slinky_glide/ |
Finaly find what i looking 4,bravo sused!
koji si sad motor kupio? |
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