Surely another bike must have similar rubbers.... Does the x, r or mt03 have this problem? Do their Cush rubbers share the same part no.s as the tenere?

Not sure if the rubbers are the same size but the X and R suffer from the exact same problem. Ive an R and was on the orginal cush drives until around 36k, and they were properly done. Got a new set and no joke after about 4-5k miles they needed packing out as there was a good 2-4mm play in the sprocket when you put it in gear.

When i bought the cush drive rubbers they were �4 each and you need 4 so �16 for a complete set, not cheap if they wear out as quick or quicker than a rear tyre!!!

This is quite ridiculous IMO. I suspect mine is also worn, I'm on just over 10k km. The dealer reckons they only wear up to a point, so doing the cheap mod should work for a long time?

I made do with numerous mods up to 58k miles but finally fitted a set of replacement rubbers at the weekend from Wemoto (incidentally, marked up as for XT550/600).

oilbreather...? What's the problem...:iamwithstupid:? I saw a modified replacement in Kev's encyclopedia, but no explanation what the problem is.

just swapped me tyres

and my cushes were in a sorry state the sprocket fell off when i removed the wheel grr its only don 2500 miles too

packed en tight and used a genourous dollop soapy water on the tube and drives
a rubber mallet to knock it in works a treat

thanks

Did mine last night took 1/2 hr took it for a spin today big difference, result

Around the World with a weak Cush Drive
 

We have riden our 2008 Ten two up half way around the globe now and we are currently in Thailand. We HAD to change the first set of rubbers at 14,000 miles as they were completely worn out, luckily with careful riding we preserved the bearing. With the second set I have been using Copper Slip grease to lubricate the rubbers and this is substantially reducing the wear rate. (9,000 miles and no play as yet) Its still a weak design but i have found this helps.
Still a great bike!!

If I can recall the problem was something to do with the pressure and flow resulting in oil coming through into the breather pipe. If you put your finger under it(inlet black plastic box) the fix was to fit one with a dimple in the middle underneath. I had mine changed under warranty..originals felt smooth

Thanks for the info and pic's, am doing it tonight as i am putting the standard gearing back after doing Kev's fuel mod an 02 sensor.

about to do the mod
 

7000 miles and for the last 1000 the drive was snatchy like chain slack/ fueling etc.

I have taken the cush drives out and the look pretty sorry, the little rubber connecting the pairs have disappeared into dust on two of them.

So my question is, do I add the inner tube mod to these worn out ones or can I do it to new ones? Obviously the latter is preferred.

thanks Kev and anybody else who cares to comment :eusa_think:

I have tried to fit inner tube with new ones without success; it's just a touch too tight. I've found if you let the settle for about 1000 miles you can squeeze some in.

I have a polyurethane cush drive now, so inner tube is a thing of the past. Done nearly 8k miles on them and they're still as good as new.

thanks pal

where did you get the polyurethane ones perhaps I can buy them too

They are available from forum member Hunday.

It is best to contact him via email, rather than PM, and be patient for a reply. He will get back to you.

This thread may be of interest...

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21410

Interesting reading.

The Hunday ones are quite pricy (�54). I will have a go at the mod first.
Will follow your advice to let the new ones bed in first for a couple of thousand miles. and hope :023:

Inner tube mod from new, lubricate them with silicone grease and forget.

In the end I fitted a new set with rubber tube inserts.
I used silicon grease to lube the entry edge of the rubber block (as CCA advised) as it was too tight for the cover to fit.
I actually cut the rubber (x4) to be the same height to that of the cover casing ribs giving me a U shape fitting as opposed to Ʊ ( I didn't want to take a chance of the cover sitting too proud of the casing)

And what a transformation:wow: Now I can start using higher gears again.
The bike runs so smoothly and cornering is once again a joy with the shunting/ jerkiness totally gone.

Very interesting as 6 months ago, I was convinced there was a problem with the fuel I was using, then the air filter and so on and on:dontknow:

Wonder how many owner are doing the same thing looking at the fueling as the culprit where in fact it is the knackered cush drive!

Now I hope this would last a long time.

BTW I recently changed my front tyre to conti trail attack2. What a trasformation. The front end is more settle and composed and not twitchy and the bike leans much better and smoother
:icon_cool:

thanks guys for your feedback and support

Bonjo, cca - Your obviously stronger than I am! ;)

Hadn't considered using silicon lube though! KY Jelly is always a good rubber-safe lube.... should slide in nicely! :ky:

Re-grease them once per year (be generous). I have no experience with other types of rubber friendly grease. Maybe they have longer life or withstand water better. However, after 15000 km, mine are still excellent. Intention is to reduce friction inside and prevent eating the rubber.
Enjoy your ride.

Don't think KY is suitable long term. IT is best used for other purposes...

Silicon grease/ lube is neutral to rubber has a good operating temperature range and better high pressure lubrication.

I was not sure if the rubbers had to stay dry (not lubed) but now CCa has answered that.

I used an old motorcycle tube and am not particularly strong. I smeared grease on the edge of the rubbers dampers then slowly push it in. If you use thick donor tube, then it will probably not go in. :)

Had to change my inner tube this weekend and discovered my cush drives were very much ground to a powder (12 000 miles). Luckily I saw this post and I had the inner tube with the puncture to remedy the cush drive problem.

What a difference that made. Bike lost the jerk and I'm smiling.
Next mod will be the throttle. :toothy9:

There are quite a few threads about this
Chose the first one I got
Did mine today 6607 km
Seems to be a common problem

My answer to lift the rear wheel - custom size wood - always with me, second as my centre stand

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1581/...2212af22_b.jpg

Was quite happy to find the bolt well greased, had a bad experience with my KLR650

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1492/...f0fa7f3d_b.jpg

A lot of play and a lot of cleaning

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1445/...7e17eba7_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/...8470e11f_b.jpg

An easy job and a quick fix

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1532/...37ebb75b_b.jpg

is it still a problem in 2015 models?...

I would think it is, you can check for any play in the Cush drive simply by getting hold of the sprocket and give it a good tug.

Yes, affects all models...bought mine at the start of 2015 .....after about 6 months did as Desert Racer suggests checked for wear by holding and trying to move the rear sprocket ....plenty of movement. Did the cush drive mod as shown, problem solved !..Steve

I've done over 18,000 miles on my XTX and as far as I know the cush rubbers have never been replaced. Do you think I might get away with doing this mod or will my rubbers be too far gone?

Had to double up on some motorbike inner tube to get it to stop wobbling but now the sprocket carrier has very little play in it. Very happy with this mod!

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hi guys

I've made a more solid version to solve this problem - it lasts even longer than rubber:
http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24172

A XT-guy from Norway was riding 40'000 km's without changing the rubbers.

cheers, Andy

Thanks Andy when it's time to fit new rubbers I will give this a try!

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Can one do this mod with worn rubbers?
Just fill space with more material

Update after 20 000 km. Excellent.

so i noticed i got a tiny bit of play on the rear sprocket, the cush rubbers.
But what kind of play is acceptable and what not?
i got about 1-2mm play in total.
i do not notice anything about it when i ride.
xt660x 2005, 13 000km

Solution: Cush Drive Problem
 

http://teknikmotorsport.com.au/Tener...b-Worn-Rubbers

Extra bearing does the trick.

But that's a expensive mod for something you can solve with the original Yamaha-rubbers and a bit of a cutten sheet:
http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=24172

Riding mine since 12'000 kms and its still tight - when i take down to the 2nd gear the backwheel is reacting/shortly blocking immediately. A guy from norway drive his (original) rubbers over 40'000 kms with this mod.

just a repeat of my older post - but that's the easiest and best way to solve it.

cheers, Andy

I ve done the same to my ten.
much better now and the sense is much stiffer back there.
used a car tube.
http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...psux2lings.jpg

Pics
 

Hi guys,

Sorry to reopen an old thread, but I'd like to try the inner tube rubber mod.
Zewl's pics on the first page are no longer there though, I assume something to do with Photobucket's new policies.

Would anyone happen to have any pics of how they laid the inner tube over the rubbers?

I have seen one pic, but the inner tube seems to lay ontop of the cush drive's connecting piece of rubber.

Thanks in advance

Andy

I dont think theres a hard and fast rule for the actual shape you use. Its more important to ensure the rubber takes up the gap between the original stuff and the casting.
FYI I used triangular shapes on mine and my mates.
Trial and error tbh.
But it was a good excuse to get the area nice and clean.

Top tip:ask for help when you try and put the rear wheel assembly back together. I struggled for 3 hours on my own trying to hold the wheel in the correct position whilst trying to keep the spacers in place and slide the axel through.. only to do it in less than five minutes when I had help.

Ah I see, but what about the connecting tabs of rubber? In Dual's post his rubbers were missing the connector? Is this something you guys have removed? As if it's there I don't see how the off-cut will slip fully down?

Haha, thanks, I like that tip!

Andy

Hi Andy, the connecting rubbers are insignificant they just disintegrate over time. Ignore them all you need to do is cut some peices of inner tube, I used squares but it doesnt really matter, lay it over gap where the cush rubber goes and push the rubber in. You want it so that you dont have any excess inner tube sticking out otherwise it will cause difficulty in putting the sprocket carrier back on, but large enough to fill in the gaps on the sides of the worn cush rubbers. I used washing up liquid on the peices of inner tube to help the cush rubbers slide in easy. Dont use bicycle tubes as they are reported to melt. I didnt have too much trouble getting the wheel back on but if you struggle and dont have an extra pair of hands you can use cable ties to hold the sprocket carrier in while you put the wheel back on. Hope this helps.

I could not have put it better.
This is exactly how I do mine and I have never replaced my cush as the inner tubes have worked perfectly.