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Cush Drive rubber in rear hub
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Hi
I think there has been discussion about cush drive rubbers in here somewhere but can's see it now. However please see pic below of mine. These have completed about 7500 miles. Yamaha dealer said he would look at them tomorrow and put in warranty claim but then I would have to wait until Wednesday to get the new parts so wont have bike to ride to work Mon,tues and weds. Should I put back the worn ones or wait? Any advice will be welcome. thanks |
hi ya, had mine out recently,they dont look unlike yours condition wise,are yours clunky? if not you could ride away until the new ones arrive. make sure the bearing on the carrier/sprocket side is in good nick. mine also was wearing a little between the carrier and wheel,a smidge of grease was added to help to let it move back and forth more freely
hope this helps |
Thanks for your reply.
I never noticed any "clunkyness" prior to taking the wheel out to get the tyre changed. I go to see the local dealer tomorrow and will try the warranty angle and hopefully bring the old ones back and re-fit and wait for a few days until the new ones come. Can you believe it that I was told by dealer that Yamaha UK wont send out parts on a next day service and it takes 2/3 days! what happened to customer service- I sell spare parts and my customers would not put up with this type of attitude from Yamaha. I will check the bearing also. thanks. |
Can you only get the drive rubbers from Yamaha or is there an alternative?
Price from Yamaha dealer quoted today was around �26.00. |
Hey Stridey,
No alternative that i'm aware of. I would strongly recommend that you put your foot down (politley) with your dealer and insist that the rubbers are replaced under warranty. As far as i know replacement of the rubbers is not mentioned anywhere in the service shedule or handbook, so they shouldn't be classed as a 'wear&tear' part. I recenty had my rubbers replaced under warranty along with the sprocket bearing (and starter motor, different story tho) and the dealer didn't quibble at all. If your dealer wont budge, maybe try a different one? original Cush Drive thread is here - http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=8637 |
Fitted new cush drive rubbers last night alongwith new Avon Gripster tyre and wow what a difference. Now smooth acceleration when coming on/off the throttle-no jerking from the drive.
I got mine replaced under warranty FOC but was quoted �26.00 for a set of four rubbers. Surely we cant acccept that every 5-6 thousand miles we should have to change? Could someone find a rubber maker to make some better ones? I see the original Yam ones are made in China- low price to Yamaha and crap quality! What about a KEV mod/manufacture and made available to everyone on XT.660.com? |
Mine were replaced at 10.000km under warranty and I got a 3-year warranty, so they will be replaced as long as the warranty is on. Otherwise pay the few bucks to replace them, no big deal, it's a thumper, ya know! My dealer has overnight service from YamahaNL: today ordered, next day delivery, good thang!
Greetz, Hans. |
Your luckier in The Netherlands as we in UK only get 2 years warranty and my dealer says he can only get parts delivered to him two days from order!
Hopefully if Yamaha get all these warranty claims they will do something about it by making better quality rubbers but probably not as cost price to them will be cheap. I suppose we just have to look at it as everytime we change a tyre we have to buy new drive rubber set Lets see what happens over the next few months! |
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My fix is very simple, I have never needed to replace the dampening rubbers on any of my XT's even with my last XT doing over 20K miles. If the rubbers are in tacked & not breaking up you can take up the free play using a inner tube rubber strips. By cutting 4 strips & laying them over the dampener rubbers then push the sprocket carrier into the wheel hub, this will fold the rubber strips in half & rap them around the sprocket holder & between the rubbers. You cut each rubber strips to size so they can rap over the sprocket carrier to size. You can use different thickness rubber tubes or double them up to take up the free play, go to a bike shop & get an old inner tube from them. You want the rubber strips tight, you need to apply alot of pressure to get the sprocket holder to into the wheel hub, using both hands push like hell on the sprocket from side to side & the rubbers will fold in half & slip between the rubbers & go together. Do not use any lube to get it together, the lube will damage the rubbers. I would recommend one to do it around 3500 miles so the rubbers are still in good condition & you will never need to replace them & you will always have a tight sprocket Holder. |
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I was just wondering if that would work, looks like you beat me to it. Thanks i,ll do mine today,before the big trip.
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I've experimented with various packing materials but cut up inner tube woks best. I'm swapping tyres often so I repack now and then with fresh strips of tube as the hub carrier comes adrift and rubbers tend to all fall out during tyre changing. |
Cush drive rubber
When I recently removed back wheel ready for tyre change the cush drive just fell out in 8 bits. But I just put them back in the right place packed out with old inner tube. Nice n tight now. Wow what a difference! So much smoother around town. :blob1:
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11500miles and I've ordered new rubbers...�29.35 ouch.
On the plus side my aftermarket chain fitted at 6000miles hasn't been adjusted once so the cush drive is worth something. The original chain was very ****e quality imo. |
Maybe a stupid question, but what is a cush drive?
I tried to translate it to dutch (interglot.com) but it doesn't seem to work. Hope someone has a picture of the part fitted. |
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de rubbers waarmee je achterste tandwiel wordt vastgehouden in je achterwiel. ;) |
ok, thanks
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Mine were replaced at 10.000km, with the service under warranty. Now, at 24.000km's, the rubbers are still okay; kinda strange, 14.000km's compared to 10.000km, maybe the original rubbers are of lesser quality as the replacements? It also could be that the chain and sprockets were replaced at 18.000km, that the rubbers are still doin' fine? Anyway, I'll do the Kev mod with the innertubes, sounds good to me.
Thanx, Hans. |
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My original chain and cush rubbers were replaced at 11.5k miles. Apparently there was virtually nothing left of my cush rubbers and my chain had a really tight spot...combined I had pretty much stopped filtering as the bike was not smooth enough to be confident doing it. Low speed handling was getting pretty apalling. I'm now at 19.5k miles and had my cush rubbers changed with a new tyre but I almost need not have bothered as they still seemed in fairly good nick. Chain still looks like new and has not needed any adjusting (DID X-ring chain and scottoiler fitted since bike was new) |
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Just put bycycle tube in mine today doubled up. I read on here to use cable ties to help squeese the hub and sprocket together and this really helped. I tied on 4 over the spocket (not over teeth) and round a coupled of crossed spokes. These kept it nice and clamped together and enabled me to get the wheel back in and those anoying spacers which drop out easily only caused me a little problem. Went for a test drive and much smoother with no jolting anymore. A good fix. Cheers Kev
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Nice work. :eusa_clap:
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Bringing back an old thread, I just did this "mod" to my 2005 XT660R (like 9,000 miles on the clock). The vibration had got annoying, so I went to a tire shop and got an old, used, car tube (15x7.00) for $1USD :D
The thickness was perfect, didn't had to double it up. The result is amazing! I guess that as they deteriorate progressively you don't notice how bad they are until you fix them. I dreaded speeds over 100km/h on my bike due to the vibration, and I even thought there was something wrong with my bike... Until one day I had a flat tire and noticed that the sprocket carrier was lose, when new (I had another flat tire with less than 1K miles) I noticed that it was a tight fit, you could turn over the wheel and the sprocket carrier would remain in place, now with the rubber pieces in there it's back to the same tight fit! |
What do you think about use of silicone grease when mounting new dumpers? Is it helpful for their life?
Also, dumper for xt600 has same yamaha part number as for xt660 and they are cheaper. Are they really same (fastriders.de)? |
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I think mine has had it - 7200 km
I've done the tube inserts twice already, and again today, there must be a permanent solution for this problem http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/y...ers/Cush01.jpg http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/y...ers/Cush02.jpg |
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Blimey, they look in good condition compared to the ones I'm running! Mind you I have packed them out and they are working well with no vibration whatsoever. I'll get a few more miles out of them yet and then next year I have a cunning plan and it involves ..................... I'll tell you guys next year.:occasion14: |
Ive thought of the possibility of pouring some sort of molton plastic or rubber in there and then re-assembling before it sets?
Or just glueing it all together with chemical metal? :eusa_wall: Theres got to be some sort of solution |
IMHO the only realistic long term solution is to get a firm to make up a batch of polyurethane ones like these (GXR1000/Hayabusa)...
http://www.brocksperformance.com/ima...sh_Drive_2.jpg I've already tried three companies in the UK and all have shown either a lack of interest or "that's out of our scope of manufacturing"! Maybe someone can try and make some enquiries abroad? I'm sure there would be a sufficient level of interest in such a product here on XT660.com? |
yep........yamaha
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I'm in agreement with that :icon_thumright: |
Polybush rear drives is what we need..
My cush drives are also far worse and only covered 5k - been shimmed with inner tube too and I have a new set to destroy courtesy of a warranty claim. |
cush drive
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+1 for polybushes :D
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not a slly idea... urethane is very easy to mold... Its a cold to part mix.... if yer used something around Shore 95A... even the mold could be made from nylon..easy to machine up.. The XT ones could be cut from urethane sheet.. a hacksaw with a well lubecated blade would do it.. |
Cush Drive Rubbers
I had these made up out of Polyurethane
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...0-07101358.jpg http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...1-10104855.jpg I have 25 000 km on the set that are in at the moment and they look as good as the day I fitted them http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...9-23170241.jpg I have sold a lot of them too R650 South African Rands per set |
Cool!
How much? |
Nice one, well done mate. I thought somebody would be able to find someone, somewhere who could do it.
What hardness of polyurethane did you go for in relation to (a fresh) set of rubber ones? |
A few Dutch riders (I'm one of them) have modified the sprocket-carrier such that it can take either a double Yamaha bearing or a single wide BMW wheel
bearing, with good results. Here's a link to some photo's showing the double Yamaha bearing solution: http://www.motor-forum.nl/forum/list...46525#21446525 This is the BMW part no. 36 31 2 310 972 (used in some BMW front wheels) inner size is 25 mm outer size is 52 mm with 20,6 mm (5,6 mm more then standard and with double row bearingballs) You'd have to make a new socket! €32,- It's actually a INA 3205-2RS F0712 or SKF 3205-2RS like http://www.amazon.com/32052RS-Bearin.../dp/B002HARCP2 http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg Last time I checked the rubbers didn't show any wear after a few thousand km's. Normally you'd see rubber flakes and worn blocks. EDIT: I only just noticed Salami's post ... HJ |
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