Hi, I'm James. New owner of a very clean Australian 2013 Tenere (13k when I bought it, now up to 20k on a wa/nt trip). Previous owner did the common mods from the dealsrship- DNA filter/airbox wall, power commander and Barret slip on.

All good till yesterday. Engine light is flashing code 24- o2 sensor faulty.

$529 ex Japan....

Google tells me I can adapt and fit a cheaper bosch sensor.

Or there's vague forum posts about bypassing altogether.

Or others about needing a compensator if aftermarket exhaust is fitted. Does the power commander already compensate?

Still running fine. Identical fuel economy and power as before.

Thoughts?

If it has got a Power Commander fitted it is very likely to have a Dynojet O2 Optimizer fitted as well. This is more than likely where the fault lies.

To start with, the early versions of their Optimizer were a bit unreliable can can through up running problems and cause the engine trouble light to show. Dynojet will supply you with a later version if you give them the serial number of your PC unit. Secondly, check the inline connectors where the Optimizer fits in line with the stock O2 sensor's loom: a dodgy connection here will trigger the engine trouble light and error code 24.

Have a look for a small black box plugged into the O2 sensor wiring.

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Thanks for the reply.

It has a dynojet 'autotune' 2x1" box along with the power commander under the seat.

Upon closer inspection there is also a chunky dynojet branded connector (adaptor?) under the the tank that the o2 sensor feeds into, and a 4 pin connector dangling from above mysteriously. I pulled apart the chunky dynojet connector and it seems clean. I assume the dangling one is meant to be disconnected.

Light still flashing

There shouldn't be any dangling or disconnected connectors under the tank in the O2 sensor circuit. The Dynojet Optimizer has two plugs and goes in line with the sensor.

Sounds like the O2 sensor circuit is unplugged? Can you post a photo of the area under the tank where the O2 sensor, connectors and Optimizer/controller are.

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Found a bike mechanic to talk to in Kununurra, he reckons it's an aftermarket o2 sensor. You can see the chunky dynojet branded plug with grey clip in the pic, and to the right of it the mysterious dangler. If this dangler is meant for an o2 sensor then mine is definitely aftermarket, as the empty plug is 4 pin and my sensor has 5 wires.

That ain't right!

Looking at the photo you've got some sort of aftermarket sensor/O2 eliminator fitted which probably isn't doing anything. All they do anyway is keep the warning light from coming on! Effectively your ECU is not receiving any signal from The O2 sensor.

You will need to reinstate the standard sensor and connect it up properly. Then you'll need to set hold of either Kev's O2 controller or a Dynojet Optimizer as I mentioned in an earlier post.

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Mate for 529 bucks that won't be happening. For whatever setup I've got, it did work for 20K so I'm sure it can work again. When get home I'll be chasing up thr bloke I bought it off to find out who masterminded the system.

As for now I've not lost power or economy so I'll just keep going I guess

I've had another look closely at the photo and, although I can't see the actual O2 sensor, it would appear that what you've got is a replacement wide band sensor in place of the stock one which is feeding the auto tune unit with data. The dangling plug is the ECU connection which is not in use. What you could do cheaply is buy a small plug in resistor type O2 eliminator and stick it in that empty plug. That will put the warning light out as it will complete the heater and signal circuits. It won't change performance though. These eliminators are readily available on eBay for around 30-40 bucks. I'll try and find a link later.

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Thanks for your continued help and advice, bit I don't understand, how did the bike run in this condition for 20K without the light coming on?

My guess is that there was a plug in resistor O2 eliminator plugged into the dangling socket in your photo to complete the circuits and keep the light off. It may well have been pulled out, or fell out, which is why the light suddenly started to illuminate.

Something like this:



Do the pins in theat socket look shiny still, like something has been plugged in there, or are the dulled with surface corrosion?

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