My ignition barrel is sticking a *****, I was wondering if it's possible to completely strip the barrel down to check the internals and give it a good clean?

Mine is doing it as well. It's so bad I can't even turn it to the steering lock position. I think it's seen too much WD40 or something similar.

I am going to try this method first before I do anything drastic.

https://youtu.be/nvMOYUaeT9k

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I've tried cleaning it that way already, it was fine for a while but now it's getting far worse. my steering lock works fine, my problem is turning on the ignition now.

But wouldn't that add to the gunk if the barrel already has oil in there?

Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

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From past experience, whatever you use to flush out all the old tarry gunk, you can only ever do half a job with the barrel still attached to the bike. The ONLY way to sort a really poorly ignition switch is to flush it through with contact cleaner several times and invert the barrel to allow the cleaner, dissolved gunk and debris to run out. Of course in order to do this you will have to drill out the shear bolts and remove the barrel.

The trouble with flushing a lock out on the bike is that you tend to flush grit down to the bottom of the assembly. You can never be guaranteed to get it all out. Doing it insitu will improve things, but it's not the total solution.

Whichever method you use, make sure the internals are absolutely bone dry before applying any graphite powder.

As I've mentioned elsewhere, one of the best ways of keeping your ignition barrel operating smoothly long term is to cover the top with a rubber bung (sink plugs work well) whenever the bike is parked up outside. Also think about where you keep your key. Much of the dirt that accumulates inside ignition barrels is transferred to it unwittingly on the key from the crap in the pockets of your trousers/jacket!

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This solution was posted in the German forum, hope you can see the pictures
http://www.xt-660.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=16699

He removed the locking system and disassembled it. Then he polished the small metal plates, which are responsible for the locking (pic no.6). He used a micro motor grinder and a rubber-bonded polishing point.

This seems to be a long term solution.

Ciao
Solitario

Morning guys,

The German post was exactly what I was looking for. My bike is a 2006, and I've only had it 2 years so there's no way to know how the lock has been treated before I owned it. And I use it for everything including off road.

I've done the insitu clean a few times and yes it does help but only for a little while, so I think it's nearing the point of a complete strip down and clean is the only way forward.

That does look like the more permanent solution. The only thing I need now is time.

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I think 2 hours + a few for mistakes.

I'd probably allow a day or so and order in the correct shear bolts for added security.