My Kev mod is in the post and I'm looking forward to its arrival. In the meantime I'm trying to figure out the cleanest installation. I'm looking for 3 things: a strong, weatherproof connection, a clean look that doesn't look too DIY and finally an option for simple removal.

Kev ships a terminal block connector, and I'm sure that's fine. If the mod is removed, I guess the original wires are just spliced, soldered and protected with heat shrink. However, terminal blocks don't look that nice, and are quite exposed to the elements. Also, splicing and heat-shrinking the wires doesn't make it easy for a new owner to refit a Kev mod if they want to.

So, I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas for a good, clean installation that can be easily removed leaving the wires in a condition where the mod could easily be refitted.

For example, I'm looking at these connectors.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-Cable-W...-/261049048235

Would these make a neater job than terminal blocks? On removing the mod, one could then leave a single connector on to join the original wires, meaning it's a simple unclip for anyone wanting to access the wires to refit the mod in the future.

Any other ideas?

I've done pretty much what you suggest - using a waterproof connector to install the Kev Mod.



Extend both ends of the cut blue/black wire (solder ad heat-shrink) so they reach the under seat area and connect to a female 2-way Superseal connector. Fit the male end of the Superseal connector to the Kev Mod.



As you suggest prepare a second male Superseal connector with a bridging wire joining its two terminals, so if you need to remove the Kev Mod you can just plug this in to return everything to normal.

I use a Velcro sticky pad to stick the Kev Mod to the bike under the seat, so it can be easily pulled out and hung out the side of the seat so it can be tuned whilst on the move.



Weatherproof Superseal connectors can be bought cheaply here (don’t, whatever you do, be tempted to pay Touratech prices for them!)

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Hey Pleiades

Nice job!

Do you know if the blue/black wire on an XTR is long enough and routed in such a way to allow the connector to be fitted under the seat?

I think the waterproof Superseal connector is a good idea. However, it does require wiring up the pins and I don't have the right crimping tool for that. I've done it before with needle-nose pliers but the results are not great! The beauty of the connectors I linked to is that you just strip 10mm of wire, stick it on the hole and close the clip - job done. However, I'm not sure I'd use this connector if it has to stay under the side panel.

Blimey we are into a serious mountain out of a mole hill here!!! cut the wires solder the fuel mod wire in electrical tape and bobs your uncle,I put Kevs mod in and took it out same way the wires are long enough to go under seat towards the back,the lads been at this game for a while so he's thought through.

When testing and setting it up I had the adjuster hanging out from under the seat so it was twist and go when I was happy tucked it under the seat.

Hamslay - As long as you cut and connect up the correct wire it doesn't matter how you do it.

Mountains out of mole hills? There isn't a right way or the wrong way, just your way! If that's a mountain rather than a mole hill, then that's fine, don't be put off - we're all different.

Do the neatest/best job you can to suit your needs, with the resources, tools and skills you have available to hand.

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I am less bothered about being able to reverse the mod, than making it 100% weatherproof in the long term. I've used the block connector for now, but eventually I will strip the blue/black wire back and solder it in, with heatshrink to finish. The wires with the mod are long enough to put it pretty much anywhere. I have mine loose, next to the snorkel. It hasn't moved since I put it there. If you want to remove the mod later (e.g. to sell the bike) than I'm sure there is enough slack in the blue/black wire to sweat the mod wires out and resolder the originals at least once. One original wire with a bit of heatshrink on it looks better to a purchaser than yards of extra wire and non-OEM connectors. Just my view.

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XT600E (1994)
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