Hello,

The title summarizes it all.. here is the closest i can get them by moving the rear wheel (with a ratchet loop over the subframe):

IMG_20150802_171332445_HDR.jpg

What I did to get there:
- installed an Hepco becker center stand (what a b*!# were those springs btw)
- found it hard to get the bike on the center stand, measured the sag from the bike under it's own weight... near 6cm, yes we need more preload
- with the bike on the stand, managed to do maybe half a turn with the preload ring, then it was too hard (moves a bit but goes back when releasing force). I will need a solution for that but that's not my main concern anymore. I don't thing a moved the shock there, as i was pushing it forward, and you can see in my picture it is too far back (picture shot from the left side)
- removed and refitted the rear wheel after changing the cush drive rubber. no more play, good
- though it was a good idea to remove the relay arm and clean/regrease all these shafts and bearings.

=> started with the shock/relay arm connection: ok. Forgot to support the wheel so it went down all of a sudden when i punched the shaft out. Maybe the shock moved there.
=> added support for the rear wheel (ratchet over the subframe)
=> then went to the relay arm/arm connection. ok for the nut.. but could not get the screw/shaft out on the right side. yeah, the hepco-becker has a special outgrow only on the right side which seems designed exactly for that purpose, blocking that bolt.
=> at this point, got a beer
=> tried the arm/swing arm connection: won't move
=> tried the realy arm/chassis connection: difficult access, once again the stand is in the way.


=> ok that's enough for the day, let's put it back together
=> put the relay arm/arm connection nut back
=> saw the problem with the shock/relay arm connection. tried moving the rear wheel, still same issue.

Ok so i guess i just have to rotate the shock. Access to both side of the top nut/bolt looks like a nightmare: airbox on right side, exhaust on left size, and a metal bracket designed to prevent any access from the back of the bike.
I tried to use a clamp to get the realy arm and the bottom of the shock. Maybe it moved a little bit, but i only had a junk clamp in my toolbox (you just turn the hand grip, no leverage).

So what now? Do i try with a better clamp (with leverage), or is it useless/i'm going to break stuff, and i should go ahead an make a hole in my airbox to put a socked on the bolt at the top of the shock. I don't need to remove it, just untighen it enough to rotate the shock (but i may need to hold the nut at the other side for that...)

Any input would be appreciated.

A little tip...

Always fit the shock to the relay arm first, before you connect the linkage (dog) bones to the swingarm. If you fit the linkage bones at both ends before the shock you'll be fighting against the shock spring to get everything lined up. If you fit the shock first, then all you've got to do is raise/lower the swingarm/rear wheel to get the linkage bones to line up with the hole in the swingarm.

You need to disconnect the dog bones from the swingarm, connect the shock up to the relay arm and then refit the dog bones.

Also, take off all the preload on the shock before you start refitting anything.

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Thanks a lot for the quick answer Pleiades.

The thing is.. the only thing i completely removed was the shock connection. I didn't manage to get the dog bones out.

Spring preload.. now that's hard from you to ask me to remove the so little preload i fighted to get

I'll try it, but looking at the picture above, it seems i would have to raise the wheel (and compress the shock) a lot to get them inline

If you disconnect the dog bones at the swingarm you should not have to compress the shock at all to fit it to the relay arm. Just move the relay arm up to line up with the shock.

All you have to do then is raise/lower the swingarm to refit the dog bones to the swingarm, again the shock does not move during this, all you lifting/lowering is the weight of the swingarm (and wheel if attached).

By doing it this way you are using the lever effect of the swing arm to your advantage. A pry bar of length of wood might be handy to raise/lower the wheel if it's attached.

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Yeah, i think i got it. Problem is i didn't manage to get the dog bone out of the swing arm. I first though it may be the swing arm (+wheel) weight on the screw/shaft, but even when supporting the wheel i could'nt do it.

Well i'm just gonna try harder then.

Thanks again.

Well I tried harder and could detach the dog bone from the swing arm.

Then, with some effort, i could get the relay arm and the shock inline. The relay arm was free to rotate, but it was tight around the "clevis" of the shock (or the other way around)

Then i found a swing arm position which was ok to align with the dog bone, just as Pleiades said. Thanks a bunch.

The good news is the few spacer/screw i got out where almost clean with a thin layer of grease on them, although there was a 5mm thick layer of chaine lube+dirt everywhere outside.

I rode to the sea for a relaxing test ride and no problem. New cush drive rubbers (fitted with old tube rubber as suggested on the forum) really makes a difference.