Came out of the office at 7:30pm to find the ten coated in ice. Started OK though. However, running about a mile to my overnight stay, the bike cut out while stopped at a set of lights. Took a real effort to get going, then rode at high revs for 5 mins to digs.

Did not expect it to start this morning, and it did'n't.

Battery turned the bike over a few times, but the cold and damp defeated it.

Not sure why though. Will get a jump start to get home tomorrow night. I can only think I have an earth somewhere brought on by the damp. I need to get under the tank and have a look at the area other folk have had trouble. Cross fingers a jump start works tomorrow evening, or Mr AA will be busy.

That issue, usually ends in fuses blowing, and eventually death...... (for the bike, for a short while anyway till it's fixed)

Could be a number of things, from damp in the HT or LT leads (or any other ignition connection), to the side stand switch, to water in the fuel line turning to ice !

I know, I such a help in these matters....

I'd start with the plug though, on occasion mine has cause a misfire, stall of even failed to start if she's sat after a wet period. I recognise it and give the inside of the cap a squirt with WD40, a wipe out and back together - sorts it every time.

Of course, it could be more serious, or it might just fire up and run for the next 4 years without missing a beat.

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Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

This affects my r on a frequent basis, damp weather causes a short somewhere round the plug or ht lead. As Keith says, plug lead off and give everything a good squirt of wd40 and shes right as rain again.

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I'm always in the sh1t, only the depth varies

For what it's worth (ie b-all probably, me living in a relatively mild climate re wet and cold), I noticed the HT lead from my Tenere's ignition coil has a very sharp bend from the coil itself. In fact, it looked like it wasn't sealing, so I squirted some marine silicone around the area.

I can't tell you if it works other than the bike's been wet here and there and so far is good. Your conditions are far worse than ours here in Adelaide, obviously.

My only credential in this area is that I have ridden 11 x 24-hour reliability trials and the conditions varied from bone dry and freezing (-11 one night. That was very bad), to torrential rain and not so freezing for 90% of the event. What all this waffle is leading to is that we had to waterproof our bikes as much as possible, so areas like the one mentioned above got loads of silastic thrown at them. And I got the ground thrown at me a lot (or was that me thrown at the ground?). Still confused.

Thanks for the thoughts and opinions.

Several incidents over the last few days - always damp. Including Saturday morning following a night in the garage accompanied by the tumble drier. Never had problems in the rain, but the damp/condensation seems to cause a problem.

Will remove HT leads and coily bits, apply hair dryer, and then insulate. I favour chain lube over WD40 - I wreckon it lasts longer and sticks better.

Chain lube is not the same stuff as it is just gunge and NOT an electrical isolator like WD40. (Please correct me boys!!!).

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(Now sold on, sob) 2011 Blue XT660X with gold wheels, was 26,500 km.
Engine mods: K&N Stage 1 filter, DNA Stage 2 filter, snorkel removed, Kev fuel mod fitted.
Plus: smoked Puig screen, Yam aluminium sump guard, Yamaha / Acerbis handguards, Givi Trekker aluminium side cases, Leo Vince X3 cans plus Kev front fork mod and Fender Xtender. Just fitted Michelin Road Pilot 3 tyres.

SOLD the XTX for a Super Ten 1200. And just bought a Raptor 700 so staying on here for some tips....

Chain lube will last better as a corrosion inhibitor, but what you are after is a water dispersant to eliminate damp causing HT shorting/arcing, which is the best thing WD-40 can be used for.

However, ACF-50 will do both jobs!

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Thanks for the pro's and cons of WD40 V/S chain-Lube.

Will investigate...............................