oh bugga

just want to go out the Ten, hit the start.....click,click,click,click,click....."blood y dead battery"!!!!!!

im meant to be ridding to France on thur

but,i fully charged it using my optimate either friday eveing or thur..cant remember. so thats either 48hrs ago, or 24hrs ago. i put my meter on the battery and it said 11.4v!!!

I have done some small wiring on the bike

1) i cut of the yam dash board connectors that my old Oxford heated grips were wired to. i replaced the connectors with bullets and wired my AMPS sat nav cradle to using the red wire (with a inline fuse) and the small black one. The other 3 i ignored.

2) one of my number plate light cables snapped, so i just tapped up both ends and left it.

3) soldered a wire onto the live rear brake light, taped the end up and just left it. i did this ready for a relay for when i get round to putting in the aux fuse box.

i know my battery isnt great but it wouldnt discharge that quick, hasnt before. have a cocked something up?? seems to me like something has drained the battery?? the bike hasnt been ridden for about 2 - 3 weeks but the battery has been fully charged a few times, and partially charged onece or twice. (and like i said at the start, fully charged 48hrs ago)

11.4 volts sounds like your battery has had it my last battery went from starting no prob to click, click, click, after stopping for a hour new battery problem was solved.

They can die that quickly
Mine doesn't get charged at all, and lasts weeks
You need to charge it again and check without multi meter what the draw across the battery is with everything switched off

__________________
you win some, lose some, crash some
K+N filter, snorkel removed, homemade kev mod (with his blessing), co raised,
Pipeworx cans, r1 led back light, under tray removed, small indicators, handguards, cnc short levers,

Doesn't sound like your wiring. The dash connector, brake light feed and number plate lamp are all isolated when the ignition is off anyway, so unlikely to cause a drain while bike is standing. (That is unless you have pulled out the key in the "P" position!)

Check the battery first. Remove it, fully charge it, disconnect charger and measure the voltage across the terminals. Then measure the voltage across the terminals at hourly intervals (with battery still removed from the bike) and record how fast the voltage drops off. It should fall back down steadily over 24 hours and stabilise at 12.5V(ish) for a good battery. If it continues to fall back and goes below 12V, or it falls very quickly then the battery has bad cell(s) and is goosed.

Once you have checked the battery is OK and you have a picture of what its own internal voltage drop/rest voltage is, connect it back up to the bike and measure the voltage across the terminals (do not turn the ignition on/off though before measuring voltages*). Check the voltage over time and compare with that of the disconnected battery battery. Comparing the two sets of voltages will allow you to calculate the static drain on the battery.

*Bare in mind that for the first 24 hours after the ignition has been switched off the imobiliser will draw a small current (while led flashes), after 24 hours it becomes idle (LED stops flashing) and current draw becomes nominal. Just be wary that the measured voltage drain will vary depending on how long since the ignition was switched off.

__________________