Hi Lads,
Now is the time to change for proper knobby tyres.
Done some research and (as expected) web prices are much cheaper than local garages (ie. pair of TKC 80's �135 garage �190 etc).
On top of that, if I bring loose wheels they charge �20 per wheel to fit new tyres and if I bring a bike they charge �50 per pair!!.
Due to above I decided to do it myself!
About to order some tyres from internet (what web/supplier is the best in terms of delivery time!!)
Don�t have central stand, so what is the best way to do it? Was thinking about small jack under the engine and lift it up a bit, secure with something and there we go!
What spanner size for rear tyre?
Also noticed that the front wheel is not a nut � is the tool/spanner for front tyre included in standard tool kit?

Many thanks!
PS.
Also, was thinking about rim lock (at some stage) how to fit it?

Ok...


Firstly, are you really surprised that a tyre shop - who make their money selling tyres - will charge you a lot for fitting tyres you've not bought from them? Really? Didn't think so.

You can find places that will swap them for you cheaper. Typically it will be a backstreet race-bike mechanic somewhere rather than a big bike shop - they're geared up to swapping part-worns back and forth for racers. I've got one locally that will do them for �6 a wheel, but that's not much use to you.

However it's worth doing your own occasionally to keep your hand in in case you need to do it on the trail. And TBH I've been swapping mine so often lately that even �6 starts to look a bit steep

Rear wheel nut is 22mm. Front spindle is a 14mm hex key. Neither is included in the toolkit (cheers Yamaha). Go to Halfords/etc and look for sockets to fit car gearbox drain plugs.

I wouldn't bother with rim locks for normal trail riding. I don't think it's particularly sensible to run very low pressures on such a heavy bike anyway. I run at about 25psi, and that's enough to stop the tyre spinning on the rim.

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I spent a lot of money on travel and racing motorcycles - the rest I just squandered.

XT660Z - Commuter, Adventurer...Racer?

www.dashmoto.net

Other bikes >> MT-03 / CG125BR-J / ER-6F
Departed >> ZXR400L3 / EC300 / DR-Z400E / DR800S / GPZ500S / GS400

Many thanks uberthumper!!

�6 is a bargain!! (I dont have similar shops/garages in my area ;/) )

I think I will give it a go anyway for training.

I've got some spanners but need to buy hex for front wheel.

Any suggestions re: bike support etc. for wheel removing having just side stand?!!!

I've got a centre stand!

If I didn't, I'd probably buy something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liftmaster...#ht_2190wt_754

You can improvise all sorts of ways of doing it, but is it worth the stress?

__________________
I spent a lot of money on travel and racing motorcycles - the rest I just squandered.

XT660Z - Commuter, Adventurer...Racer?

www.dashmoto.net

Other bikes >> MT-03 / CG125BR-J / ER-6F
Departed >> ZXR400L3 / EC300 / DR-Z400E / DR800S / GPZ500S / GS400

Halfords do front wheel spindle drives now, saw them last week, but didn't have a good look so not sure of the quality.

Whenever I buy tools, I buy wise, that is, not cheap. It's worth it in the long run.

OK, getting your wheel up;

The back, put the bike on the sidestand, pull it over (on the side stand) and shove a rock/box/pannier under the other side to keep it there. It helps if you have four arms and two of them are 6 feet long, or ask the missis/dad/mam/son/daughter/dog to help. Or an axel stand under the swing arm.

The front isn't as easy, use the same principle as the rear, but you are going to need to put weight on the back of the bike.

If you have a decent pannier, you can shove this under the engine guard and pretty much do either wheel, just by moving the pannier backwards (for the back wheel) or forwards (for the front).

But there are many ways to skin a cat, as they say.


PS - I have the Clarke version (from Machine Mart) of the liftmaster that UT mentions above. Another worthy investment, with you allways and can lift far more than just a motorcycle... (outboards, trailers, cars, RSJ's !)

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>-------<

Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

UP TO 680KG it looks like I can lift up my bike with my mother-in-law sitting on it!!! Excellent!!

if you are fitting off road type tyres i take it you are going to go 'off road' and they are not for show...........therefor you best figure out how to change a tube on the trail without i centrestand/jack/prop of some sort, as you are bound to get a punture a some point! it might be worthwhile investing in a centrestand.

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check out www.redbikejohn.com for all the latest race reports from the CHEC and enduroland.

hi kinioo, plenty of useful advice there! as redbikejohn & uber says better to be prepared than stuck so here's my 2p's worth

unless you intend to run low, below 15psi, i would avoid rim locks they are not really needed and a ****** to balance.
a couple of short levers, buzzetti type with a 22mm socket and a 30mm section of 14mm allen key welded to the less useful end of the levers works for me.
for inflation a cheapy 12v pump with the casings removed is the bussiness just mind your fingers!

wether you take tubes or repair kit what ever suits you, personally i carry both tubes

roadside tyre changing in france

Kiinoo,, dont use a spanner fur the rear tyre,,use Tire levers ye`l get on better an faster ha ha ha... an stotic bloke... what ye changin that good looking rear fur another one is it cause its cleaner lookin.....

i always use a gingerbottle crate.... get it on the balance.. then tie the rear down when talkin the front off....man its hard writing all these words

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nah john, i worked out desert tyres are pants on soft going!, better with a fresh enduro hoop




thought i did change it back for going home and any time soon the canvas
will make an appearance, so about 7,000miles on the michelin desert, not a bad tyre thought proper scary on wet tar!