Good afternoon dear members. I just bought my xtz 2010 near end february. After having 5 bikes I finally started to learn some wheelies on this one. Stupid thing to do, besides getting caught by the cops and almost lost my drivers license, I also sort off ruined my clutch. My bike only has 16500 km's on it and the clutch is already slipping. I didnt know that 2 months of a few wheelies a day could end the life of a clutch that fast. Hope to hear some of your thoughts about it. Anyways, I can still drive in a good pace and keep up with everyone, it just slips when I suddenly open the throttle and keep it that way. Or if I try to pull away in a higher gear than supposed to. I just ordered a good clutch set of TRW with steel plates, friction plates, springs and a cover gasket for a nice 130eu incl shipping.

I watched on youtube how to replace the clutch, on other bikes obviously, and wanted to ask if there is anything special to it on the Tenere. I hope to hear from you guys and thanks beforehand.

Replacing the clutch plates isn't really any different from any other wet multiplate set up.

Things to be aware of on XT660s are:

There are three slightly different types of friction plate indicated by notches on the tabs) and they must be fitted in the correct order. There is only one 'type 3' plate and that's easy to identify as it's got a large internal diameter - this goes in first. The 'type 1' and 'type 2' friction plates are then alternated between the steel plates starting with 1 then 2 etc.

Make sure the teeth on the pull rod are facing rearwards and be very careful that the engage properly with those on the shaft. It is quite common for the teeth to get mashed up if not engaged.

Before connecting the cable, make sure (when the operating arm is pushed as far forward as it will go) that the punch mark on it and the casing line up. If they don't you'll have to take the lever off and move it round a few splines.

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Thank you so much for your helpful reply Pleiades. The friction and steel plates are all the same, meaning there are no 7 different friction plates and steel plates except for that first friction one right?

And I've never seen a pull rod before, but I think that once I see it I will understand.

Regarding your last point with the punch mark lining up, could you elaborate on this please? I don't get that part (it's really new for me). Thanks alot!

The pull rod, shaft and operating lever assembly will all make sense when you get the cover off.

I seem to remember with the TRW kit there might only be two sorts of plates only? 1x inner plate (large internal diameter) and the other six are all the same so probably won't have punch marks (you don't need to line the punch marks up they're just to identify the different types of friction plate).

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Thank you for explaining. I hope this information will suffice. I'll be receiving the kit by the end of next week. I'll try to make some pictures if I don't get overwhelmed by the difficulty level. On the tutorials it speaks for itself. If there is anything more to it, I'll be glad to hear.

Ive just fitted the TRW kit last week and Pleiades is correct, there are only 2 different types
1 with larger internal diameter
6 normal type.

Works a treat, no more clutch slip and better engagement with the new kit in.

Another thung too be aware of is where the tabs locate in the clutch basket.
IIRC the last 1 or 2 friction plates to go in, 1st too come out do not line up with the rest of the clutch pack but sit one notch over.

It will make sense as soon as you get the cover off.
My advice take pictures of evwrything before you dismantle it. Then you have a record of how it should.go back together.

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To boldly go where no Tenere has gone before.