Easy Coolant filling Yamaha tenere 660Z - .: XT660.com

anthony_1978 · # 1 30-05-16, 01:08

i didn't want to remove the tank to replace the radiator coolant so i did this

https://youtu.be/UpeSkeZVQxc

Pasta · # 2 01-06-16, 08:49

When/why should you replace the coolant? Good tip. Thanks

Sent from my PLK-L01 using Tapatalk

renten · # 3 01-06-16, 12:55

Green coolant should be changed in every two years. Red/pink/purple(newer cars use those) are 5 years.
Its because it gets bad and corrosive to engine parts after two years of usage.

I will put red car coolant when i get my engine fixed. It lasts over 5 years. Polar premium longlife 8.5€ for 5 litres.

And it doesnt matter if it is car vs motorcycle coolant cause engine cooling system is the same for both. You just pay more for "motorcycle" name on the bottle.

anthony_1978 · # 4 02-06-16, 03:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by renten

Green coolant should be changed in every two years. Red/pink/purple(newer cars use those) are 5 years.
Its because it gets bad and corrosive to engine parts after two years of usage.

I will put red car coolant when i get my engine fixed. It lasts over 5 years. Polar premium longlife 8.5� for 5 litres.

And it doesnt matter if it is car vs motorcycle coolant cause engine cooling system is the same for both. You just pay more for "motorcycle" name on the bottle.

i changed the coolant because the bike is 5 years old and well overdue.

posted the thread/ photo/ video hoping it saved someone having to remove the tank to access the fill cap area

best wishes from Australia

Pleiades · # 5 02-06-16, 09:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by renten

Green coolant should be changed in every two years. Red/pink/purple(newer cars use those) are 5 years..

Just a cautionary note - there is no "standardised" colour scheme for coolants so be wary of going by colour to determine what type is in there, or what type you're putting in. Your green coolant could well be a "long-life" coolant anyway.

There are three main types of coolant:

Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) - Older type coolant which is often (but not always) blue or green and relies on silicates to coat the internal components of the cooling system to provide the corrosion protection. The corrosion protection takes a while to build up and breaks down relatively quickly.

Organic Acid Technology (OAT) - Newer type that relies on chemical corrosion inhibitors to actively prevent corrosion. It starts working as soon as it is used and last for up to five years. Usually this is pink, orange or red, but can also be blue or green! OAT is what XTs came with from the factory and is the recommended type to use.

Hybrid Organic Technology (HOAT) - Effectively a carefully concocted mix of both the above, but with borates instead of silicates. This is generally orange or yellow. It is nowhere near as common as the above two types.

The big problem is none of them are compatible with each other and don't mix without causing problems and any type can be pretty much any colour! For example, if you've had IAT coolant in a cooling system and you change to OAT, you'll get small weeps and leaks everywhere and eventually blocked radiators as the OAT chemicals react with the silicate coating left by the IAT, releasing it and producing a thick jelly-like substance. Just draining and refilling is not good enough as the silicates are adhered to the insides of the pipework and coating the waterways. A full flush (or two) is necessary. (OAT and HOAT don't mix either without causing strange reactions.)

OAT coolant attacks silicone too. So if you have fitted silicone hoses or have used RTV sealant anywhere in the cooling system it should not be used. OAT-safe silicone hoses can be found, but the vast majority out there are not.

Basically, if you don't know what's in your cooling system, don't go on colour, just assume it's not compatible with your new coolant and flush the system thoroughly before re-filling... which unfortunately means removing the tank and radiator!

renten · # 6 02-06-16, 10:40

Polar Longlife is OAT and silicate free

Color is not 100% true and should not be bought by that in mind only. For 100% you should read what it contains.

harryP · # 7 02-06-16, 10:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pleiades

Just a cautionary note - there is no "standardised" colour scheme for coolants so be wary of going by colour to determine what type is in there, or what type you're putting in. Your green coolant could well be a "long-life" coolant anyway.

There are three main types of coolant:

Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) - Older type coolant which is often (but not always) blue or green and relies on silicates to coat the internal components of the cooling system to provide the corrosion protection. The corrosion protection takes a while to build up and breaks down relatively quickly.

Organic Acid Technology (OAT) - Newer type that relies on chemical corrosion inhibitors to actively prevent corrosion. It starts working as soon as it is used and last for up to five years. Usually this is pink, orange or red, but can also be blue or green! OAT is what XTs came with from the factory and is the recommended type to use.

Hybrid Organic Technology (HOAT) - Effectively a carefully concocted mix of both the above, but with borates instead of silicates. This is generally orange or yellow. It is nowhere near as common as the above two types.

The big problem is none of them are compatible with each other and don't mix without causing problems and any type can be pretty much any colour! For example, if you've had IAT coolant in a cooling system and you change to OAT, you'll get small weeps and leaks everywhere and eventually blocked radiators as the OAT chemicals react with the silicate coating left by the IAT, releasing it and producing a thick jelly-like substance. Just draining and refilling is not good enough as the silicates are adhered to the insides of the pipework and coating the waterways. A full flush (or two) is necessary. (OAT and HOAT don't mix either without causing strange reactions.)

OAT coolant attacks silicone too. So if you have fitted silicone hoses or have used RTV sealant anywhere in the cooling system it should not be used. OAT-safe silicone hoses can be found, but the vast majority out there are not.

Basically, if you don't know what's in your cooling system, don't go on colour, just assume it's not compatible with your new coolant and flush the system thoroughly before re-filling... which unfortunately means removing the tank and radiator!

Good Post, Pleiades. Thanks

Shaolinfist · # 8 19-06-16, 20:13

Yes thanks Pleiades, I just filled my new engine with coolant but had no idea about not mixing with other types and don't know what was in there previously. Should I flush it out properly to be on the safe side and what would be the symptoms that I have a problem? I ran it idling for 10 minutes today and it got rather hot the fan even came on. Thanks again.

Pleiades · # 9 20-06-16, 00:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaolinfist

I just filled my new engine with coolant but had no idea about not mixing with other types and don't know what was in there previously. Should I flush it out properly to be on the safe side and what would be the symptoms that I have a problem?

Its up to you, but my advice would be: If you don't know what was in there flush it through a good few times before filling. You don't need anything fancy if the coolant that came out was relatively clear, just good old water. Fill the system with water and run the bike up to operating temperature drain it, then repeat, drain and fill with correctly diluted OAT coolant. If what came out originally looked in anyway contaminated, then a flushing agent added to the water would be worth a shout.

The breakdown of the attached silicon compounds in IAT coolants when mixed with OAT coolants results in everything thickening into a gel. The symptoms of mixed incompatible coolants are hard to tell without looking at the inside of the cooling system components. Generally you find jelly like deposits (silica gel) floating in the coolant and/or collecting round the water pump vanes, in the radiator core and round the thermostat.

Here's an example, a Land Rover 200tdi water pump after a year of running with mixed IAT and OAT coolants. You can see the silica gel build up very clearly:

Needless to say this water pump failed in use!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaolinfist

I ran it idling for 10 minutes today and it got rather hot the fan even came on.

That's pretty normal running at idle with no airflow for 10 minutes. Nothing to worry about.

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