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I agree with everything said - don't want to have too much weight too high up, or too far back, and they do look ugly.
The plan is thus: Carry everything required in 2 panniers, leaving the top box basically empty. This means when I get to a destination, I can throw my lid, and jacket in the top box, and walk around in relative comfort. |
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hahahah Not to laugh at you but the idea has been tried before so many times. Humans have the nature to fill any luggage they bring, normally with stuff they dont need. So the emtpy top box idea is a good one (ive tried thought about doing it before) but you will always put stuff in the topbox as its easy access, and it will keep filling up until you cant get your helmet in let alone any more stuff. Im planning a 4 week hoilday to europe with a mate (2 bikes, mine being an XTR) and already i know im going to have to have stuff in the top box and thats with 2 panniers (textile), tank bag, and pillion roll for my tent/sleeping bag etc. |
I've covered way too many miles on my Z with both the Yam panniers, top box and a bag on the seat. Doesn't look great, mainly because Yamaha have the panniers and the box out-of-line - looks like somethings not been fitted right!
Anyway, back to the point, I was carefull to put the heavier items in the bottom of the panniers (and near the front) keeping the topbox free as a 'day box', so things I was likely to need quickly (first aid kit, hat, sunglasses, food for the day, documents etc) and filled the rest of the space with the light stuff Sleeping bag, document etc. Also had a HG Toureg tank bag with phone, chargers, laptop (a small ASUS EEZ PC with a GSM stick, great for keeping in contact), as well as a handle bar bag to keep the camera, and some cash for easy access, toll roads, filling stations (no need to get your wallet out!). I never found the bike top heavy, even when I dropped it in Sweden on some gravel roads, picked it up no problem - and no I'm not some super-fit-Arnie-type, but I got it back on it's wheels first go and without too much effort. What you do have to do is make sure you tighen up the pre-load on the suspension, it's set very soft out of the factory, but once you crank it up the bike rides just like it did the day you picked it up. |
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https://www.metalmule.com/shop-onlin...facturer_id,0/ They are expensive, but the strongest on the market and boy, so beautiful on a black tenere. Think i'm gonna buy them. |
.............and truly stunning on the Yorkshire Racing Gold (Khaki) version!:icon_joker:
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I've had a top box on all my bikes and never had a problem with weight distribution or turbulence (even cruising at 140mph on my old FireStorm). The box is currently on my XTX and you wouldn't notice it was there when riding even when fully loaded up.
It may make a difference to you if you are riding slowly offroad but other than that you won't even notice it is there. Don't listen to that old chestnut about turbulance. Especially with on a 45bhp bike with a fully kitted up rider sat up front. Al. |
Where did you get the top box adaptor plate for the Givi?
Cheers. |
From my local Yamaha dealer - West London Yamaha
Any Givi dealer will be able to source a top plate. |
I am interested in knowing how the plate fixes to the bike, looking at the photo's it does not use the rear handrail bolts or the two bolts at the rear. I have the same Givi rack and the old version but neither will line up with the existing bolts. I assume there is an adapter plate ?
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There are 2 metal brackets that attach with 4 bolts; 2 on the rear hand rail, and 2 at the rear. The Givi plate attachs to these metal brackets.
Hopefully the photo shows this: http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3988/minidscf2683.jpg |
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