Great, please PM me your fuel map to have a look at when it is done.

So the other day i set about blocking my AIS pipe, disconnected it from the airbox, the upper hose on the left hand side of the box as on the picture, and once i had got it off and was hunting for items to block it with, i felt something solid about 4 inches into the pipe and it appears that my AIS pipe is already blocked with something :/ Im pretty sure i got the right pipe, and i rang the guy who owned the bike before me and he didnt have a clue what i was talking about! IDEAS PLEASE?!

thanks
 

great tip easy to do very effective.

I blocked mine and removed the plug and it felt like I had an improvement. it was around the same time I removed my baffles and cats from the std pipes (see my budget standard pipes uncorking).

Im onto a new project xtr now and was wondering how you would go plugging the airbox and totally removing the pipes and AIS assembly altogether? I could just make up a little plate to go over the hole on the head.

surely all that rubbish wouldnt be needed if your disabling the system.

I plan on running aftermarket headers with no balance pipe and uncatted powerpipes. Ill be riding it overseas where theres no emission hassles and I can have it dynoed here before I send it.

so what do you think Kev and me mates? just remove everything and plate the hole?

No problem to block off the hole with a plate.

Please send to this post new pictures of AIS removal!!!

All this type of info is in the modification index.

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=630

Engine & performance mods

5/ AIS removal stop your bike popping.

I thought the pictures will be shown how to remove the entire AIS system, not just blind pipe.
How to make a plug for the air intake AIS to the cylinder head?

I have personally never removed the whole AIS system & I have not seen anyone else document it on the forum.

If you want to remove the complete AIS you need to blank off the air box & the make a metal blanking plate for the head.

Exactly, I want to do. Just thought someone already did it.

I did it.
Remove all the AIS system is easy. Just unplug the hose from the airbox and put a plastic plug. Then unplug the blue electric connector below the tank and the hose that goes in front of the head, next to the headers.
Now you are able to remove the entire system. You have to remove the metal pipe that goes in the head and make a metal plug to close the hole. Maybe you have 1kg less on your bike.

Great job, Ernesto.

Now pictures :)

I haven�t any pictures, sorry!

Got round to removing the air injection this morning

http://plodalong.smugmug.com/Other/2.../0/L/004-L.jpg


about a pound worth. made up a blanking plate for the head port, pretty tight getting to the bolts at least without removing the headers but it is doable.

blanking plate

http://plodalong.smugmug.com/Other/2.../0/L/003-L.jpg


Probably my imagination cause it shouldn't affect the way the engine runs but it seems smoother. Lost the compression braking noise I used to get when idling along slow dirt tracks as well as the popping on the overrun.

Still Popping AIS removed
 

I removed my AIS about 6months ago but gota say my exhaust still likes to pop quite alot when im off the throttle and slowing down through the gears.... I have a PCV and stage two DNA with maps loaded that were recommended from Kev.
Should I be adusting the fuel settings on the maps more to have less popping?
The bike runs great and if I crack the trottle enough for the air to go through it stops.... easy fix maybe change my riding style???

Advice appecaited

Removing the AIS on a 00 & 01 ECU will reduce the popping by 50%, removing the AIS on ECU's 10 & 11 will reduce the popping by 95%.

Thanks Kev, That's why then.... Do I get anymore advantages from changing my ECU ? If so how much are we talking for one?

What model ECU do you have 10 or 11 on your 2008? What advantages are you looking for?

My bike has no O2 sensor so it's pre 06 right ? All I want is less popping really, it runs like a dream I think. Just not sure how much a ECU will be ordering through the Yamaha dealer in Thailand and if there are other benefits ?

The ECU is the worse of the two.... 00 I think

Have you got a PCV or PCIII on your bike?

If you have adjust the fuelling on the zero range to reduce the popping, you will never get rid of it totally with a 00 ECU.

Yes I have the PCV and Stage 2 DNA

So do I recuce settings on the TPS and CO1 that i increased before getting the PCV?
Or are these settings on the PCV, all I did was upload two maps that you suggested which performance wise have the bike running great..... I could just do with 95% and not 50% less popping.

How much is a replacment ECU? Could you post one, rather than me getting raped in Thailand importing it from the dealer?

When running a PCV or PCIII map your CO & TPS must be set back to standard, do this first, then add +5% fuel in the Zero zone from 2000 - 4500rpm. Once you have set the TPS back between 16 & 18 recalibrate the Throttle 0% to 100% throttle in the PCV.

The spare ECU's I have, have been used on bikes already & once coded to a bike they can never be really fitted to a second bike so they say, I do know how to bye pass the immobilizer & have done it to 2 XT's, I will never disclose how to do it as the liabilities would be huge for this forum if everyone knew hope to steal & start these bikes without keys.

To the two guys I helped out will not disclose how I did it, it saved them hundreds of $ because they lost all their keys. I want to keep these ECU's as still want to have a go at programing the hex map in them, I can reprogram my KTM OEM ECU no problems, can turn off the O2 sensor, increase the rev limiter, alter the ignition timing, alter the A/F ratio ETC.

Yeah I total missed that out, makes sence though ... So if the TPS setting is between 16-18. What was the CO setting 10/11?

If that fixes the popping more I'm happy.

Cheers

hello guys!
yesterday i blocked the ais hose on my MT03 and the result was just perfect!before that i had a big problem from massive pops like a gun shoot and i was about removing my brand new Giannelli's cause of that!i have a full mod airbox and throttle body plus a dna st1 filter!can i adjust the mixture from the tps sensor or i need an air temperature mod? bike is 2010 and there no money right now for a pc3/4!

Out of interest what is your ECU part number?

check it out http://imageshack.us/a/img195/3117/25022013.th.jpg

and tell me (if you want) what can i do with this?can i remap the std ecu,change the rev limit (rpm meter hit's 7800) and give some advance?

-I blocked the AIS hose today... I tought I will have 50% less popping since my byke is a 05 model, but they are 95% gone, at least at today's short commute... (?)
-By the way, my girlfriend says it sounds diferent, could this be true...?

-Kev Thanks a lot ...!!! :yahoo:

UPDATE:
-Popping and backfiring... pretty much there... as always...

Popping,back fire is part of a xt.:smilies0349:Nothing sleeps in my village.:lovers[1]:

I blocked of the AIS on my 2013 XT660Z after fitting a aftermarket pipe, the popping is a little bit better but it now surges when its cold. I am awaiting my fuel mod from kev but am worried that if the mod fools the system in thinking its cold would this not elevate my problem?

Your bike surges because the bike is lean, by fooling the ECU into thinking it is colder than it really is it injects more fuel to over come the lean A/F ratio.

I refitted all stock parts to my XTR to sell it. Took off the PC5 and mounted a fuelmod. Refitted the AIS but didn,t connect the wiring. Is it true that if not connected the electric wiring it should be closed therefore I don,t need to block it?

Thanks

Skickat fr�n min GT-I9295 via Tapatalk 2

I just blocked my tube with a bolt like Kev did and all the popping is gone only the "normal" popping occur occasionally.
Thank you! :)
(I would not even have thought of it if I had not read about it here on the forum)

Block off the what now? will it stop it surging? lol i'll try anything! :)

AIS has nothing to do with surging, it is a inlet port after the exhaust valve, it injects filtered air directly into the exhaust header for emission control, it has no affects on the A/F ratio of the motor.

I have a 2008 Tenere. I removed AIS system completly. What to do with the lambda sensor if theres nothing plugged to AIS plug and it can mess it up?

To kickstart an old thread.
Can you completely remove everything to do with this system from the airbox forward including the pump?
Thanks Mark

Yep

Ta