.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. - front or rear sprocket change..R...

.: XT660.com - The #1 XT660 Resource :. ( https://www.xt660.com/index.php)

- Brakes, Wheels and Final Drive ( https://www.xt660.com/forumdisplay.php?f=51)

- - front or rear sprocket change..R... ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=27875)

Quote:

Originally Posted by semmyroundel (Post 236728)

Arghh, I should've looked at the chain packet before commencing work.
The chain comes open with a link and the O Rings to join the two ends, in my naivety I assumed there'd be a link to clip on to join the chain like on a cycle.
Clearly, that won't do for a motorcycle.
How do I join the two ends?

As Nikroc says, you need a chain link peening tool, but all is not lost. You can buy separately a clip type link ( as you mentioned ) . They're probably 5 quid on ebay and are so much easier to use. Some people have reservations about clip links but, for me, that's absolutely correct when dealing with powerful bikes but a 45 bhp single, regardless of single engine pulses, a clip link would be ok. I've used one on the Tenere before now. Just remember to place the clip's open ends away from the direction of chain rotation, and make sure your clip link matches your chain ...i.e. 520 width or 525 width and is an o-ring link as they are definitely different to none o/x ring and come with their own little O/X rings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by semmyroundel (Post 236730)

Thanks Nikroc, after doing a little investigation online it would appear the important part is the riveter.
The chain came with a link and the four O rings and link plate to join it up again so I'll buy the "whale" brand that seems universally to be the only one that doesn't bend on use.
But do I need to buy the splitter/riveter version, or is it easy once a chain's links are ground off to remove the chain?
In this instance, as I'm changing the sprockets, I don't need to cut off the chain, itll come off in one piece, but for future if it's easier to grind off the chain than splitting it, I'll do that.
Also, they recommend packing the link with grease, what one should I use?

Your chain will not come off in 1 piece unless you remove the swinging arm. It is far easier to use an angle grinder and 12 seconds later the chain is on the floor. Don't bother grinding rivet heads flat and pushing pins out. Just teach it a lesson and cut it off, straight through the link plates.

As for link grease, they normally come with their own grease.

Thanks Nikroc, and latterly Chalk Two, the chain that came with the driveset is a Tsubaki RSN520 ALPHA XRG 110 links.
So I'm assuming the following:

There are exactly the correct amount of links and I don't need to remove any to shorten the chain for my XT ?(it was bought as a driveset specifically for the XT660X).
The link that came in a separate bag that has the four O rings in it does not have annular grooves, so I'm forced to peen it?
This above link in the separate bag is really greasy but they haven't added a sachet of grease separately, so just go with it as is?
I'm sorry, being a bit dense, I didn't understand that last bit: "...i.e. 520 width or 525 width and is an o-ring link as they are definitely different to none o/x ring and come with their own little O/X rings"
I'm guessing that doesn't count as I appear to be forced to peen.
Once again, many many thanks and patience for my questions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by semmyroundel (Post 236734)

Your XT should have a chain length of 110 links. Its width is 520 standard ( some people upgrade to 525 thinking a wider chain + sprocket will lasy longer / less stress).

I think your new chain is an X ring spec, again slightly better, so long as you look after it.

The link + greasy sachet is really all you need. Additional grease would be belt and braces.

It also sounds like you will have to peen over the rivet heads. Don't over do this or the link will be too tight. Check out youtube.

Side bar ;- O rings are like a wedding ring or any other round rubber washer. X rings are also circular but if cut through and looked at internally have an X profile. The logic being an X places two contact surfaces on the chain plates where the feet of the X shape touch compared to the one of the O ring. Two contact points, allegedly, keep more grit out / grease in, inside the roller pins. Mmmm? all very gimmicky in sterile laboratory conditions. In the real world of salty UK roads plus questionable chain hygiene, it's all a load of......

You got thousands of miles left in them...:unibrow:

Took the old sprockets and chain and made something to use them a bit longer
Created a lamp out of them

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/...eca56a35_b.jpg