Brakes hot !
 

Hey guys,


Having an XT660 2014 model here. I fitted new brake pads, then I tried to bleed the brakes, but my hose leaked air and I think I sucked in sme air. Slightly spongy brakes but its alright Ill have to fix it later today.


The issue is: I drove 10 km to my job today and noticed one brake being very hot and the other cold. So the left brake disk is dragging to the newly added pads. How is this possible ? I think I might not have pushed back the calipers well enough and so they might be stuck a bit ? I cleaned the pin and everything with dusty cleaner so it should all be very well cleaned and proper .. Any idea please on what to do ? Driving like this isn't really healthy for the discs. Also when fitting new pads is it normal they drag a bit at start ?

When you use new pads on old discs the pads will be perfectly flat/square..the old disc wont be as it will have many thousands of miles use hence its worn..it will take a while for the pads and discs to wear in together.

You may also find the disc is no longer 'true' and runs out causing it to drag if the caliper has been stuck before/overheated causing it to warp.

Personally id strip the offending brake down and re clean it with brake cleaner and silicone/red rubber grease on any rubber/boots and copperslip in the pins and back of the pads...AND I'd sort the spongy brakes asap.

I will reclean it today , debolt it all againe , see if it actually works and if it is stuck or not. What substance do I apply on the calipers ??


The rest is greased as the bike is in pretty good shape m, no rust no bad road conditions like offroad and in general no rust. the spongy brakes I don4t know how it wont get solved.



I pump up the brake , push the lever and hold it tight , open the outlet valve air comes out and fluid but a lot of air and almost no fluid , then I quickly close the valve again and loosen the brake lever after that , more and more air gets in to the bike as I do it , I also notice that the vacuum pump with hose is sucking in air past the valve because it doesn't shut off 100 procent , I think this sucks in air into the system then .. Veery strange for such a simple job ... In the meantime I always open the top reservoir to let in and out of air on the top ...


any tips or how to video would be nice because I watched on youtube but don't get the sponginess out even not with the vacuum set ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VIZIBLEED-...8AAMXQNo5TY41J

I have used this with good results...tbh its as effective to use a piece of clear silicon tubing that is a tight fit over the bleed nipple.

You only need to crack the bleed nipple open a 1/8 or a 1/4 of a turn.

Im not to clear if you are allowing air into the system from the top res..ie by letting it bleed dry and drag air in

I always had fluid into the reservoir, I noticed that I had to open the valve for atleaast 1/4th or or even more before fluid came pouring out. Maybe too much open then ?? But as long as I don't loosen the lever it shouldn't pull in air I thought ? Maybe that's the mistake then ... ?

RE the offending caliper/potential sticking piston.. I spray brake cleaner directly around the pistons to wash away any rubbish ..I also pump it out to past its usual position when the pads are out to make sure everythings clean.

JUST BE CARE NOT TO POP IT OUT!!

I assume it wasn't a problem before you stripped them down?..

End of the day you have to open the nipple enough to allow fluid out obviously..Im not saying you had it too open that it allowed air in. TBH sounds more like the bleed tube is loose around the nipple.

you could try tapping the caliper/brake line to dislodge any trapped air. Another option is to leave the res top off overnight with the brake lever held back to the bars..I use cable ties.

Well I bleeded for 2 hours no luck and went to a friend and he couldn't figure it out either. Our thought is that the nipples are either leaking or they take in air through the threads. Took out a nipple and cleaned it ... no result ... I still have one hot caliper. Will reclean and then apply special grease for the calipers. No luck so far , if I can't fix it today I'm bringing it to the dealer I have no clue whats wrong ....

If the nipples were leaking wouldn't you be pumping brake fluid out when you apply the brakes?

Thought you had only opened one brake line?..

Does the piston move freely when you pump the brakes?..

Did you try leaving the brake leaver strapped back to the bars overnight?..

Alright,


Yes initially it was in only one brake line , because I could not get rid of it m I tried bleeding both brakes with a more experienced motorcyclist and mechanic. We both have no idea , the bike brakes well de lever feels slightly spongy but nothing special. The left brake still runs hot.


What I have tried so far:


1. install new brake pads and noticed the problem occurred afterwards because I bleeded the left brake a bit, to let excess air out.


2. Bleeded the left side with vacuum pump and noticed I sucked in a lot of air. Kept on bleeding but the insane amount of air it sucks in through the hose is unknown to me.


3. Bleeded same brake with a tie wrap on it because I thought the hose leaked and sucked in air past the valve, also bought new hoses, same result as before ...


4. Bleeded regularly with a hose in a bottle and oil in it. Same result ??


5. Bleeded both left and right side at the same time


6. Alright piston check 1 , Clear pistons , pushed them in and out and in and out and they go smoothly , applied brake cylinder oil I purchased at a specialized shop


7. rechecked both calipers again and regreased and rechecked and they are corrosion free and move easily


8. Debolt the valves in the caliper ( drainvalves for fluid ) and checked if they where plugged ? They seemed fine and cleaned them with brake cleaner


9. Re install try againe with both methods , vacuum pump and with holding the brake and a second person to assist in open and closing the valve


10. result is the same there is to much air being sucked in , anyone who bleeds the brakes from a tenere experiences the same thing or is it just me ? any video or so please ?


I have no idea , asked multiple people and don't know what to do anymore I don't think the shop can do much more tbh xD


Everything was fine, I installed new brake pads and drove only 20 km's on them to work and back and then noticed the heating so a warped brake disc seems overrated to me.


I use sintered brake pads which I always have on my sports bike aswell and on the rear brake of the tenere.


Anyone who has the slightest clue ?

the prob with bike front brakes is you are trying to bleed the air out of the lowest part of the system..
any brake hose above the master cylinder dosn't help either the
air sits there as its the highest part.... Push the hose down till it
all below the master cylinder....

but I always take the master cylinder off the bars and put it on a old set of bars on the ground below the caliper.... always get brake pressure in 6/8 pumps
or so... but it's not so easy to do it this way on some bikes the way the hose is held in place...



..

Petenz,


you had this problem yourself and you think it is air in the system ? Unrelated to all the issues I face ? After the master cylinder don't we go straight into the fluidreservoir ? So then there is nothing in between if I am correct on the XT660Z model 2014.

Did you have any issues with spongy brakes before you opened the system?..

If not then you have introduced air. Personally Id be inclined to empty the system and start again with new fluid.

Im assuming you havent cracked any joins in the system too,just the bleed nipples.

No I have not bleeded the brakes on any other position besides opening the nipples and closing them aswell as opening the reservoir on top to refill fluid. Someone told me to hold the brake upside down and then tap it, someone who owns a triumph Bonneville and had a same problem , couldn't get air out of system and who also tried with same pump etc .. I could try this aswell. What I have done now is left the lever tightened overnight and let us see what that gives. Then debolt the left brake hold it upside down and drain it once more without vacuum pump. If that doesn't do it I have no clue.


Yes, the brakes a more spongy than before switching the pads , but after so much draining it seems like it has to be drained well ?


There is also the matter of my bleeding nipples making a lot of air and almost no full fluid as I mentioned which also seems odd to me is this ever the case that bleeding goes that weird ?

I have 6 pot calipers on my other bike and these can be a pita to bleed.

As I said earlier in the thread I have held the brake lever closed overnight,with the res lid off to force air back up to its highest point.

I have also tapped the brake lines,used a vibrating electric sanding plate to try and move trapped air.

If the bleed nipples are allowing air in when you open them to allow air out then I can only think that the tube your using to drain the fluid is too loose and dragging it in there. Try a smaller tube maybe?..one that you have to warm up to actualy get it over the bleed nipple..

Alright I will give that a go, I think it has to be the air in the left side since it keeps on dragging and I have no clue how to solve it lol.


I left the lever strapped overnight so that has been fixed. I will debolt the brake hold it upside down and give it some ticks as I know someone with a Triumph who had bleed issues and couldn't get all the air out of his brakes and doing this actually fixed it for that guy. Afterwards I will also try to tick on all the brakelines.


Should I keep focus on the side of the bike on the left , the side which has the hot brakedisc or do it for both brakes ??


Thanks for all the replies so far, I hope we can fix it ! Can't find a lot of info on the internet in general that helps me out besides this forum =D

If you have opened both brake lines then I would bleed both.

Cant see why air would cause it to stick tbh. I would have thought that's more something mechanical like a dragging/flipped/torn seal or crud. Did you actually strip the caliper down and check/flush it externaly with brake cleaner etc?..

I left the lever under tension overnight and noticed that the day after the bleeder nipple at the left wqhere it also drags leaked slightly. With slightly I mean it was wet and maybe 1 drop came out. at the other side it was still clean, I thoroughly cleaned it before doing it so could be the bleeder nipple being faulty. Im going to order two new brembo nipples to be certain.


Havent bleeded yet as I have to work to much and am using my second motorcycle for now. I will come back to this topic as soon as I have tried the above and have results !

Ok solution to this problem,


After looking and looking the bleeding system I used for other bikes does not work on the tenere. The bleeding valves are leaking like mad and you need a decent bleeder system for it to work. We drained all air with another system and the problem got fixed ...


That was it.

Are you saying that you ended up using a different type of brake bleeder?..if so which type did you use?..it might help someone else in the future.

Did you end up replacing the bleed nipples ?

I pulled out the nipples and they where fine after sanding them a bit.


I used a different type of bleeder but cannot put on the info for that one since it was done without me seeing the device in the garage because mine didn't work !


But the bleeder was a cheap device with plastic hoses which is used and sold commonly. I can re assure you those don't work on the XT ...


Better to have a bleeder with a more solid close to it.

If your caliper is getting hot then you have at least one sticky piston. You didn't say what XT660 you had (R/X/Z). You may also have a sticky caliper slider as well. Bleeding alone will not solve this and i you don't fix it you will end up warping your disk!



Before you waste time on bleeding I would suggest replacing your caliper seals giving everything a good clean in the process. I use caliper service kits from www.powerhouse.uk. Polish the outside of the pistons when they are out to remove any build-up on them. There are plenty of videos on YouTube to show you what to do.



Once you know the caliper and the slider are in fully working condition the brakes should bleed easily and the sponginess should disappear.


Al.