replacement brake pads
 

I think my rear pads need replacing as the pedal travel has increased (the power is the same though)

should I replace them with brembo or an alternative?

braking power is not a problem.

BTW what mileage should be expected from the rear pads? Mine have done 12.5kmiles

I have recently replaced front and rear with EBC..bike had 10,000 miles on the clock..longevity depends on a variety of factors IMHO..riding style/braking style and conditions of the calipers themselves

I also replaced the brake fluid,takes about 15 minutes.

I got 11k out of mine but they were worn to about 0.5mm, too thin really, I went for stock EBC pads, they work just fine

I've had EBC and Brembo. Both good but the Brembo seem to bite a bit better.

thanks guys. I was thinking of brembos myself as the calippers are brembo already.
I wonder who makes the OEM pads

One more question. What is the material of the OEM pads?

did you guys go for organic or sintered?

I use carbon ceramic (organic), sintered eat your brake disc.

I'm using EBC double HH pads in the front and EBC standard pads in the rear

the rear pads are down to 1mm (after 13500 miles) so I ordered a replacemet set.

I settled for brembo carbon ceramic which are nearest to OEM as I don't have any issue with them (except ,aybe they are too powerful!!).

I took your advise guys and stayed away from sintered.

incidently, Yamaha parts come in at almost �40 while brembo @ �30

brake pad spreader
 

Finally replaced the pads, found it a little fiddely as it was a very very cold day, fingers weren't working properly and I did not take the rear wheel off!

As an afterthought, I though maybe a tool like this would have made the job less painful.
Has anyone used one like it??:icon_idea:

https://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/d/l180...51739091_2.jpg

It's always best practice to use the correct tool for the job but in the case of pushing the pistons back in when you are changing old pads I've found, as long as the reservoir cap is off, that a chunky pair of screwdrivers put between the old pads and then levered gently opposite each other will push the piston back to create the room to fit wider, new, pads..

This requires the caliper to be off and the piston / s and seals to be in good condition. If they weren't the proper tool shouldn't be used as the piston and seals will need popping out, not back.

My car has an electronic handbrake and I have to use diagnostic software plugged in to the car to electronically withdraw the pistons. We should count ourselves lucky the XT is real old school.

I used a pair of chunky long nose pliers and pushed the pads apart on the backing plate.:)

I kept the brake fluid reservoir cap on though but bled some fluid to compensate for the new pads.

Are you refering to the tool in the picture requiring the caliper to be off?

thanks for the feedback:)

you're welcome and yep, I was talking about that piston pusher thingy-ma-jig. If you're lucky enough to have removed the pads only then that tool may, just may, fit in the space left considering the backing plate is about 4mm and your remaining pad depth may be a mil or two leaving roughly 6mm either side of the disc to slide that tool in. I guess it'll depend on how far your pistons are out at the time of pad change. For me, I like to remove the caliper to give it a clean and inspect the rubbers. (BTW rubbers are expensive from Yamaha but since these Brembo's are on BMW, the BMW online supplier is cheaper)



I think these are the ones. https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/S...HA_40&spPage=2

Good idea to clean around the seals with some brake cleaner and some kinda brush( I use a toothbrush) to remove any crud BEFORE you go moving the pistons in and out.

Yes I see the potential problem you are describing and I guess one more to add is with the pads out, the plates on the tool will be long enough to reach the piston with the caliper on the bike.

food for thoughts:eusa_think: