Too hot? Or not?
 

Hi all,
the problem:
Engine is running hot, warning indicator lights up. After fixing the blocked fan, the i dicator no longer lights up but the fan has to do a loooot of working. Exhaustpipes slightly glowing too! Do I have to worry or not?

the story
I recently had to fix my waterpump, I had the blueish coolant in the system and I replaced this for the yamalube coolant. This Worried me because the yamalube is more reddish, so first I rinsed the system, but this might not have been sufficient. Could the system be clogged with sludge from mixing the the coolants? How can I check if the waterpump works properly? And how can I check if the coolant is running through the whole system? Thank you.

Oh PS. When I replaced the coolant, I found a pin slightly bigger than the pin that holds the gear on the propeller shaft in place. No idea where it comes from, but due to this i had to replace the prpeller as well.

hi,

just a question : did you checked the CO value?

any change before theses problems ?

Hello,
No I haven t checked the CO value, how can I do this?
Changes;
-From blue coolant to red coolant, I mixed some, they dont seem to form sludge.
- Revision of the waterpump, replace gasket and rings etc, also the propeller and propelershaft are replaced.

Ps I foubd some info on thw forum on how to check the CO value I ll try doing this asap!

So I ve checked the CO settings using the following procedure:
Press and hold select + reset button, select CO setting. CO1 shows a small zero in the upper right corner. When selecting CO1 bottom right shows value 6.
CO2 shows a small zero in the top right corner. Selecting setting CO2 shows a zero ad the bottom right. I havr absolutly no idea what this means and what the normsl values are or what they stand for. Anyone sees a problem with these values? Thank you

Ok I ve done some more research, co2 is for my sevond cilinder I dont have... So it wont affect anything. Co1 affect the mixturw when running idle before the fuelmapping takes over. If raise the number I will run a richer mixture and a colder engine, right?
Can I just go ahead an raise what I want? Or what steps should I take?

Thx

Hugo

hi,

sorry for late answer. yes, CO2 is for cylinder2 so useless here.

your CO1 value may be the factory setting, so... if you have a filtre (KN, DNA....), an exhaust. or maybe the two.. you may increase it a little (see tutorial befor modifying). The mixture can often cause overheating, but not that much so i dont think the problem is here...

glowing pipes can happen :/ i will do somes research on that...

is your spark plug ok? (CR7E? CR7EIX?)

clean air filter?

last valves check?

If the pipes are glowing while the bike is parked and at idle
that is normal.... theres no air flow to cool them...

If it is doing it while moving you could have fueling issues..



...

Hi all,

Thx for the responses! Here some answers 😁

-The glowing pipes, only noticable running idle in the garage, so might be normal than?
-Since fixing the fan, never had the overheating warning light never lit again. Only the fan is wroking really hard! Compared to my friend s tenere!
-As far as I know everything is stock on the bike so better not adjust the co setting?
-I bought is 2nd hand ad 14k kms. Now it has about 16k i dont think the valves were ever checked. i ll start with ckeaning and checking the air filter.

Thx for the tips!

16K km is ok for valves, no specific need to check.

As petenz mentionned, glowing pipes are normal is you stay idle a looong time (specialy after use...).

hard fan use? thats normal, i find mine working hard too :) if necessary, you can "Stop" the bike juste after fan stopped and chec in diag mode what temperature is the engine.

tenere are a bit different for the airflow (cooling) so the temperature can be diff�rent.

every bike is diff�rent :)

good idea to check Air filter ;) and clean it...

my experience : mine is stock, i got since April - 4K km done (+service at yamaha at 44500Km, and now is 47K ). i decided to put money in just for one Modification : Air filter ! i bought a KN, and i feed the bike better, like it breathe better. this is my advice, buy a filter :D (KN, DNA....) best investment ever !!! it was like 70€, but clearly worth it (durability, and for the bike)

Ok thanks! I will look in to this filter mod!

Maybe you can try with other radiator cap? For me they are first to check on the list. Also, with some good synthetic oil my bike run at lower temp. Unfortunately, my long term choice, Elf 4 xt tech 10/50, has been discontinued and replaced with 4 tech and bike is running now a little bit on higher temp.

Hugo. Some advice from an old XT fan, DONT WORRY!!! The XT is a fairly bulletproof engine and gearbox and Yamaha must have made zillions of this engine cos it is fitted to the Raptor Quad (in 700 form since 2006 ish) as well as the MT03 and the XT family. You need to take a notepad and pen and write down anything you do to your bike cos you always need to know how to go back IF the mod was not a good one.
Your bike sounds like it is running a bit warm. But before you try anything else I would give the bike a total service and fit a decent air filter and remove the stupid snorkel, she needs to breathe better. Use a top oil like Castrol or whatever and usually a 10/40 is best. THEN when she is tip top you can start to try some CO settings. Have fun!!!

Thx for the advice, I have installed a DNA racing filter and airbox cover with extra (filtered) vents. Unfortunatly haven t been able to test yet since I have replace the throtle cables and one of them is malfunctioning. I try fix this ASAP, also verry curious for the extra grunt with the extra vents!

hot running
 

Sounds very much like your engine is running too weak, try putting the snorkel back on and the standard air filter back in too confirm this is the cause. if you let the engine breath a lot more freely you must richen the fuel mixture.

I haven t removed the snorkel. I just installed the filter, up until now it was a stock filter... Could not test the dna filter yet.
But I was thunkingin the same direction. My engine is allready running hot, addind more air might make it run weaker, no? We will see as soon as I can sort out the problems wut OTR...

I briefly teated the new filter and. Wow!
I notice having more range in 1 gear, more power in the lower revs.
Quick respons on the throtle
Smoother ride

The only downside, less engine braking. But since I have slower respons on closing the throtle and seem to run hihger revs stationairy, I think I have to adjust the stationairy screw. Rather than having to play with mixeture settings, or not?

I haven t test it enough to see if runs hotter or not... sure runs faster now!

Anyway, so far thanks all for helping out!

wwith the new air filteryou ll have to find the new best CO value.

to find it more easily :
1- let the stationnary as it is.
2- increase de CO value by 5
--> if the stationnarie increase, then repeat
--> if it decrease, lower the CO value (by 2 for exemple)

--> you just have to find the right spot when changing de CO value, the stationary is at its peak.

For the filter, it is a very good thing ! i agree with less engine braking, but the gain is significant on other perf so...

Snawbool,

I am sorry but I do not understand. Your descriptuon seems to be looking foor even higher revs at stationary. I wish to decrease my revs...
Could you give me some more explanation for your methid please?

Thank you

Edit
Oh I think I grt it! First find peak on co value than drop revs to normal with stationairy screw?

Hi all,

Months later K still struggling with this over heating problem, putting the bike to work here in fench alps, I manage to get the coolent warning light the light up and the cooling fzn tondo a lotbof overtime. Still in the direction of a lean mixture, how do I get to richen the mixture???

Thank you

Hugo

add kev mod, O2 eliminator or booster plug.
and find more suitable CO setting, then set your idle screw to 1500-1600 rpm.
is your radiator not clogged with dirt?
is the impellor not loose from the waterpump axle, might not be spinning round with the axle but just loose on the axle?

Thx for the tip, how can I check if the impeller is loose or not? Is there a way to check if the coolant us flowing around? As I replaced this mast yea, I d be suprised as this is allready loose. I ll check he sparkplug tomorow.

Hugo

let the bike get warm,on the side stand and after about 5 minutes you should see the fan come on andthe ater circulating/...How old is the coolant/antifreeze?..

Thx, fan works and comes on even when riding. Not sure how to check if the water is circulating. I thought it starts circulatjng as soon as the engine is running?

The fan will come on when its on the bikes being ridden. Reason I said when it's on the sidestand is its obv's easier,and safer to see if the waters being circulated.

The cooling system only comes on when it reaches a certain operating temp..the fan kicks in to cool the coolant flowing through the radiator.

I asked how old the coolant is as it stops cooling effectively after a number of years. It's a quick,and cheap job to change plus it gives you the opportunity to flush the system through as well.

If you have recently changed it could you have an air lock?

Re the idle speed..when the engines warm adjust it too !450-1500 rpm.

Kev's mod's on ebay,as is a pair of second hand ones.

I would recommend that you join the forum,if you havent already and then buy Kev's mod cd..its actually a download btw.

The cd has the answer to everything you want to know about how to make your bike run as it should.

I know you have bought aftermarket air filters..DNA stage 1+ 2 ?..standard exhausts and currently no Kev mod's ,these are air and fuel correctors.Simples to fit and transform the bikes running.

Thx again for the info, I look in to this kev mod and the melber section as sokn as I get home.
Coolant was replaved about 4k kms less than a year ago with origunl yamalube. I ll check for airlocks as well.

So... 2 years later I think I ve found the problem, I opened the waterpump again... and found the impeller shattered again! must have ot properly flushed the cooling system last time :( any tips on flushing the system are always welcome. I assume the lack of rotors on the impeller causes the coolant to flow too slow resulting in overheating? right?
I really hope these black 'rocks'are parts of the propeller en all is removed now, fingers crossed!!!!

https://oi185.photobucket.com/albums...05-WA0017.jpeg
https://oi185.photobucket.com/albums...05-WA0015.jpeg

i would not free up the inlet/airfilter (+ remove the snorkel) unless you give it more fuel too!
either get a power commander with correct map, of get a kev mod (or the sorts). then you will have a proper running bike.
stock is crappy...

Forgot to mention I have the fuel mod installed now. Did not do the snorkel mod. Allthou did install the dna fikter and change the twin stock exhaust for a 2 in 1 dominator exhaust.

Ps not really looking to improve the running of my bike. More looking to improve the cooling.