Fettling to be done.....!
 

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...pskvz0yogq.jpg These arrived from Teknik in Australia. ...just need some spare time!

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzhsefik.jpg

So are you putting these into standard forks?

Yep....this seems to have worked well for others on the forum, so hopefully I'll notice the difference! Steve

Just a quick Heads-up with the V4S Valves Steve...

Firstly check that you have exactly the same spring tension on each valve..(Mine were noticeably different when new). You can either count the number of turns from where the springs start to compress or measure the spring length with a set of Vernier Calipers.

Secondly, even though the lock nut is a "Nyloc", use some Loctite on the thread....I am currently servicing my forks and noticed both of the cap screw had backed off to the extent there was at least 1.5mm of slack. This would have effectively nullified the effect of the V4S valve.

Have had a couple of big scares recently with the front end ploughing in corners and in deep sand..(I just thought the fork oil had "gone-off").

I am also considering putting two lock nuts on..to be doubly sure!!!

Than ks for the advice. ...I've checked them and they are at different tensions. I'm not sure I would have noticed. Hopefully get some time next week to get them done. Steve

I shouldn�t get too hung up on small differences in spring tension between the two valves Steve. You�ve got to remember that the two fork legs work together as one, a pair; the overall damping effect will always be an average of that set in each fork leg. Obviously a massive discrepancy will noticeably lessen or increase the damping effect, but you won�t get any �imbalance� as both legs are clamped tight to one wheel; the force only acts on one point. It�s not the same thing as fitting different rate dampers to each side of a car axle. You may remember in the past quite a few bikes had compression damping in one fork leg and rebound in the other. No harm in getting it right though. I got over-excited and just put mine in as they were and they achieved the desired effect.

Interesting about the nuts. I wonder how mine are doing? Haven�t noticed any change in damping though since I fitted them. :eusa_think:

There are of course �Nyloc� and nylon locking nuts � they are not all equal. Nyloc (the brand) use nylon 6.6 polyamide inserts which are chemical resistant, but other brands do not and the insert will degrade over time when exposed to oil, fuel, UV and even moisture. I suspect the ones supplied might not by oil resistant which is possibly why they�ve loosened? I wonder what brand/spec of nut Teknik use?

I think, based on Seahorse�s experience, when I next strip my forks down I might just use full metal locking nuts such as those made by Aerotight.

I'll bear that in mind re the springs Pete...on the 'Nyloc' front the word Nyloc seems to have become a generic term for all nylon insert nuts....good and bad. I bought a cheap asorted pack of nuts and bolts and the nylon insert nuts were useless. ..clearly not 'Nyloc' . By the way I'm wondering if I should replace the springs at the same time....my Tenere spec says I have progressive springs as standard, what do you think. ..? Steve

Post 2012 bikes indeed had progressive KYB springs. IMHO linear springs (Ohlins 6.0N/mm in my case) work better with valves/emulators. Linears are also far easier to set up with regard to static and dynamic sag (as well as damping) because they behave in a predictable linear fashion!

Thanks. ....anywhere you recommend to get them from Pete.? Steve

When I bought mine OTR were by far and away the cheapest, but that was down to a favourable exchange rate. Brexit has firmly closed that door though!

To be honest, Ohlins stuff is 'price-fixed' - they don't allow dealers to discount. You'll find that wherever you go, they will be around �120. Factors like shipping costs will probably be the only difference.

Might be worth just going and visiting your local suspension shop/Ohlins dealer to see what they can do. Even if they're still �120, at least you might score a mug of tea and some banter, as well as get a nice rideout to boot!

Your nearest Ohlins dealer (Aurok Engineering) is a short blast over the South Downs in Alton.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/AurokEngineeringLtd/about/

Just be aware that when you tighten the Nyloc nut, that it actually locks onto the base of the valve itself. If you do not constrain the valve body in a soft jawed vice (or something similar) it is possible to actually turn valve body during tightening, thus continuing to increase the spring tension.

As Plieades said, spring tensions are not critical, but if you do want to fine tune your settings at a later date, it is best to have them reasonably accurate.

I am on a bit of a mission with my current front end overhaul, fully expecting to be opening up the forks again some time later this year....When I do, I think I may install a spring washer under the Nyloc nut.

Also experimenting with Motul 5wt fork oil. Just about to head out on a 10 day ride in the Victorian High Country. There will be plenty of low speed work in loose, rocky and steep terrain. Hoping the lighter oil helps in the technical stuff.

Had only intended doing an straight oil change on my forks, but due to the mess I found the V4S valves in, decided to strip the forks completely. Have found in the past the broom handle method of constraining the rebound tube during disassembly/assembly a right royal PITA, so decided to make my own tool.

Simply purchased a jackhammer tip and forced a bit of aluminium tube over the end. Drilled a hole big enough to fit a screwdriver. (Would normally have welded a bit of pipe onto the tip,,, but as I said earlier, I am on a mission!!!).

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...t/P2201365.jpg


Constraining the rebound tube is now an easy one handed operation.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...t/P2201364.jpg

One of the best changes I made steve was fitting the ohlins springs in the front..such an improvement!..