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[QUOTE=keithy2;211250]

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithy2 (Post 211234)

My problem was solved by tightening the axel and then tapping the fork leg inwards to create a gap between the disc and caliper THEN tightening up the pinch bolts to maintain the gap. Now the clutch lever side disc is central in the caliper and the pinch bolt side has a 1 mm gap between the disc and caliper, the brand new bike had a larger gap but was still not central on the same side. All pin sliders and pistons are moving and the wheel spins freely. This is a 2014 tenere, the 2008 and 2009 have different forks with no adjustment for preload.

Don't know why it didn't dawn on me before...

This sort of problem usually stems from trying to align the forks with the standard mudguard still attached to the forks. The guard is quite stiff and springy and tends to splay the fork legs outwards. You should always at least loosen all the mudguard bolts when aligning forks or better still, remove the mudguard completely to take it out of the equation. This applies to all bikes with guards mounted to the fork legs. I remember now that I could never get mine aligned with the guard in place; not an issue now with a high guard as it's mounted to the bottom yoke.

The fact that you have tapped the fork leg inwards might have cured the issue with the calipers aligning, but unless you compress and release the forks with loose pinch bolts and let them settle on the axle of their own accord, you can’t be totally sure the fork legs themselves are parallel and you won’t suffer from binding and stiction. You might be OK, but to be sure I’d remove the mudguard, loosen the pinch bolts, compress/release the forks a few times and re-tighten. I bet the calipers will align without the need to for additional input from yourself.

BTW – 2008/2009 XTZs have preload adjustment, in fact they all do apart from the low ABS models and short-lived 2011 only “Touring” edition. The fork legs are identical castings on all models 2008-2015. The internals changed mid-2012 to a short progressive spring and long spacer sourced from KYB. These forks are identifiable externally by the raised preload adjusters, the early ones with Paioli internals have recessed hex key adjusters.

Come to think of it now, I reckon the OP's problem could well be the same; trying to get the fork legs parallel and aligned with the stock guard still in place.

brake discs alignment

The fact that you have tapped the fork leg inwards might have cured the issue with the calipers aligning, but unless you compress and release the forks with loose pinch bolts and let them settle on the axle of their own accord, you can’t be totally sure the fork legs themselves are parallel and you won’t suffer from binding and stiction. Come to think of it now, I reckon the OP's problem could well be the same; trying to get the fork legs parallel and aligned with the stock guard still in place.[/QUOTE]

Thank you pleades and others on this thread, undid the pinch bolts only, sat on the bike and give it a good bounce, the gap between the disk and caliper mount has increased to 2 mm!!

Thinking about how i originaly did the tyre change I had the front wheel dangling off the ground so the only force on the forks was the mud guard as you said, so the trick is bounce the forks and dont tighten the pinch bolts until there is weight on the front wheel.

This forum is great. :team[1]:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pepsi (Post 211210)

I'm guessing your left fork leg has a 'turn' in it. so the disc runs close to the edge of your calliper either where the disc enters the calliper or where it leaves, or probably both but at opposite sides of the calliper's disc groove.

In other words the disc is not running perfectly parallel to the sides of the calliper due to a twist in the fork leg.

As mentioned; the best way to solve this is to raise the front wheel off the ground having undone the two pinch bolts that clamp the axle and also having backed off a couple of turns the axle's torque to make it loose-ish

Squeeze and release the front brake lever a few times and then keep it on ( Zip ties) whilst you re-tighten the axle nut and then pinch bolts. Whilst the wheel is off the ground give it a spin to make sure it runs clearly. The fork legs should have turned to face the correct alignment due to the callipers being applied to the wheels' discs.

Hope this works for you.

Done, both sides are aligned now , thank you all for the detailed solutions..

A bit late to add to this thread, I know.

However, I'd just like to say I wish I'd read it earlier, because I too have an issue with caliper alignment on the brake lever side.

Thanks to all for the wisdom. I'll be fixing mine asap.