Difficult to start 0 rpm
 

I swapped my fuel map last night and now the bike won't fire without a bit of throttle, so i thought maybe the rpm is a little low, went into the DIAG and low behold the rpm continues to read 0 with the engine running?

Bike was fine before i map swap, but i can't comment on the rpm side of the problem as i've not looked at thr rpm for a while.

i've put in a K&N and removed the snorkel, ran origanally on the 501 map and ran very well, but i saw the 511 map stated the removal of the snorkel and a high flow filter.

as for the rpm, i'm going to check the connectors next to the ecu once i get home but is there anywhere else to check?

Difficult to start 0 rpm
 

Have you calibrated the TPS on the Power Commander?

No never touched it, bu why would that cuase the rpm on the dash to read 0? i've not run the bike yet with the pc suite active so don't now is the pc displaying rpm

You're right, it shouldn't affect the bike's tachometer, but is is essential to get the throttle position calibrated with the PC. If the PC software is not showing 0% throttle when the throttle is closed and 100% when it's wide open the fuel trims for each rpm band on the PC will not match the bike's actual rpm.

If you run the bike connected to a laptop with PC software running you will also be able to check if the PC is receiving a signal from the crank position sensor.

ok so i can sort that tomorrow. The TPS calibration was with a warm engine wasn't it? i've seen also there's split opinion on wether to have the engine running or not when doing the calibration and if i remember right the PC instructions didn't specifiy either.

If my memory serves me right when i installed the pc it connected into the crank senor so i will look at the connections there first, are there any other likely areas to look at should everything check out?

would the pc read the rpm, if the circuit wasn't complete, i.e. the pc recieves the signal but somehow it isn't making it to the dash?

Taken from Power Commander web site:

"We have seen as high as an 8% variation in the throttle position from bike to bike. If yours is not reading “zero” at idle with the motor at normal temperature, then use the following procedure to correct it. In the Power Commander Control Center Software, go to menu “Power Commander Tools” and look for the tool to calibrate the throttle. The bike should always be running when setting the throttle position, as the voltage the sensor sends out can vary between when the bike is at “key on” and “motor running”. The bike also needs to be at fully warmed up to its normal operating temperature. All you need to do is press "reset" while the bike running at idle, then quickly turn the throttle wide open till you hit the mechanical stop, then let go. Next press "Ok". You don't have to rev the bike out, the throttle just needs to go all the way to wide open and then back to idle."

Personally I always do it with the engine running as the circuit voltages are different when the engine is not running. After all you want the PC calibrated to a running engine because that's when you need the PC to do its stuff. Not much call for a Power Commander on a silent engine! ;)

I can see my neighbors will love me tomorrow, my other thought is it ran perfect on the 501 map so maybe i should revert back to that.

ok 501 map is back on, started fine. will know for sure when i leave work later on. PC software is seeing the rpm no problem but the DIAG is still not displaying any rpm.

Any thoughts anyone?

Difficult to start 0 rpm
 

Interesting? If you're getting an rpm reading on the PC software but not at the dash I'd check the crank position sensor connector as you mentioned. Being a piggyback type, it's possible the the PC's connector (which is first in line to receive a signal) is making good contact but the ECU one isn't? Maybe it's not snapped together fully?

But then, you wouldn't expect the bike to run if the ECU wasn't receiving a signal from the crank position sensor? Very strange.

Can you unplug & remove your Dynojet O2 optimizer & reconnect the OEM O2 back to standard & report back?

No o2 sensor fitted. Its a 06 mdel. I'm also speaking with dynojet but im not really inspired so far. I will have a look at the suspected connectors after ive finished my breakfast

Ok so I managed to check the connections and they were fine but I cleanef them up anyway. I had a quick look until the tank and a few connector blocks just looked rotten so I will be looking there next week.

so connectors checked and cleaned didnt work, I also tried putting the origanal connectors with each other and still no reading. So in light of the poor looking connectors im going to investigate under the tank checking all connector blocks.

ok more a update and after some tips now.

so there's been emails back and forth with powercommander, so far we've tried swapping all the connectors back to stock to see if we can get a signal and so far no joy, so far the CPS and TPS have been tried, the next step i assume will be to remove the PC completely and go from there.

It's looking more like the dash is not recieving the signal but the ECU and PC are. so i'm guessing now i'm looking for a bad connector or broken wire. are there any usual places where the wiring rubs through or are there any connector blocks known to be troublesome?

also i'm after any tips for clean corrosion from connector pins? i tried using a file gentley but that didn't really seem to clean the pin to well.

Contact cleaner and a toothbrush works well, but even better is to by yourself some dentist's hand tools of ebay such as this plaque removal hook...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dentist-Explorer-Fig-23-Hook-Dental-Tartar-Plaque-Remover-Cavity-Explorer-99p-/151376899676

Their ebay shop has lots of other surgical tools useful for fiddly little jobs.

The other (and perhaps best) way is to separate the pins from the connector block by releasing the tab on the back of each. It's fiddly, you'll need surgical tweezers and takes patience/time.

Have a read of this thread from the HUBB...

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/yamaha-tech/how-do-you-clean-those-29859

I always have a stash of tooth brushes in the tool box for brake cleaning so thats good then. I'll set to work and report back when i'm done.

Cheers

Ok so today I really managed to get into. I completely removed the pc with no result so its something with the bike. I came across a number of really horrible connectors. But the 2 main connectors under the tank just did not want to seperate so I think the problem is in there. If I get something like a month off work with nothing today I would get replacing connector blocks. But so far the problem remains.