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valve adjustment
High when adjusting the valve clearences there must be a timing mark or similar to position the engine to. Where is it on the engine? and what cover do you remove to see it?
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There are two marks - one is behind the small cover on clutch side. NUMBER 2
There is mark on the clutch basket which lines up with a mark in the case when the engine is at TDC. The other is larger and at the top of the engine and is retained by two 8mm hex head bolts and shows the cam sprocket. NUMBER 1 There is a mark on sprocket which lines up with a pointer cast into case when the engine is on its compression stroke (valves closed). Another useful cover is in the centre of the clutch cover and exposes a hex head that allows you to to turn the engine. NUMBER 3 If you have an Adventure Spec Bashplate you'll need to drop the front of the bashplate to access the covers - especially the centre engine turning nut. See here for numbers: http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/imag...mingcovers.jpg |
Thanks a bunch Sweller, My top end is getting very tappy when hot if it gets much worse it is going back to the dealer, I mentioned it to the mechanic at 600 miles but he was not interested. If he wont check it next time i request it, I will!! The bike has currently done 2000 miles but really taps when pulling away when hot.
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It's an easy job to actually do but is time consuming as the tank needs taking off and the front of the bash plate needs removing so you can swing it clear of the clutch cover hatches.
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"But the clutch is on the other side of the motor.." |
Also note that when rotating the crank, you must only ever turn the alternator rotor nut anti-clockwise to line up the index marks on cam sprocket and rotor.
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Just had a thought I have a mainstand, if I remove the spark plug put the bike in first gear and turn the rear wheel in a forward motion direction ? I should be able to turn the engine without removing the engine bash plate and get the marks aligned up. Anyody tried this?
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You'll need two people then? You have more control using a socket on the alternator rotor nut/bolt I would have thought, its only a matter of removing the cover to put a socket in.
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So yes, you could do it that way, but in all honesty you'd be far better doing it the "modern" way. Your predicament is one of the reasons I never opted for the Adventure Spec bash plate (despite it being top of my list for protection); the tubing get's in the way of simple service jobs on both sides. To drop the front of the plate, you have to remove engine mounts I believe, and doing this repeatedly will undoubtedly cause the bolts to stretch and accurate torquing will become difficult, besides the fact (as you imply) it's all a bit of an unnecessary faff (IMHO). |
That's true and a pain in the a**e. So I'm too lazy to drop the plate all the time, thus the rear wheel rotation thing to align the marks is easiest for me.
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It's a hassle to take off the tank to get to the valves.
If you've got that far it's only one bolt at the front for the AS bashplate. Once that's removed the whole thing will swing down an inch or so to give the necessary clearance. Trying to inch the engine over accurately, on your own, using the rear wheel seems, in comparison, a major PITA. |
It's more of pita to get that damn bolt out imo. Even worse getting it back! 😡
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valve adjustment
I have to ask though, did you have the 1st service done at 600 miles-ish? The original engine oil from factory is a thinner flushing type oil and is used to basically to clean the engine out and is dumped at 600 miles for the standard grade. If you don't get rid of this factory oil as soon as required, the engine will sound rattly when hot.......and will be gasping for the correct thicker grade.[/QUOTE]
Yes the oil was changed, the mechanic said they tend to rattle when hot. I have just done a 100ish mile ride with the outside temp at + 2degrees and the rattle was not as loud seems temperature is the key. Plus new fuel was used from a different garage. |
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