Originally Posted by bikemad195 (Post 191853)

the way i currently see it i would have to break this trigger cable and run it in one side of the relay and back out the other therefore relying on the relays components giving it a weak spot if the relay decided to be a ***** ?and creating a break in the original circuit

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 191859)

You must not split the original circuit and feed the whole thing through the relay - this will be a recipe for disaster!

You take a +12V feed to trigger the relay off the side light circuit (a spur or "T") by "tapping" into it and connecting this spur to one of the trigger/switching terminals on the relay. You can use a Scotchlok to this, or strip back the insulation and solder on the spur. The opposite trigger/switch terminal on the relay must be connected directly to ground (earth) with another wire. The only connection between side light circuit and relay should be the incoming +12V feed.

The load circuit (for the accessories) can then be passed from battery (via a fuse) throught the load termainals on the relay (in one, out the other) to the accessory, and then from the accessory to earth.

Below is a wiring diagram. Ignore the fact that the load circuit is lights (could be any accessory). Note the only connection with the existing loom on the back is the single feed from the side light circuit.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf59de448.jpg

Most good relays only draw a minuscule current of about 3-5mA to trigger the relay, so if wired correctly it will never harm the original circuit the spur is taken from.

Originally Posted by bikemad195 (Post 191882)

any ideas what i can use to create these easy accessible terminal so i can use it as a junction for all my auxs e.g so i can put them all on to ring terminals and then connect them to the 1 big feed from the relay ?

Originally Posted by Pleiades (Post 191885)

The easiest way is to fit a single pole terminal block or "buzz bar" like this sort of thing...

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e.../photo/538.jpg

You'll need to put it in a box to prevent anything shorting. Better still is to fit a covered fuse box, which will enable you to fit a correctly rated fuse individually for each accessory you add...

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ages/lfb06.gif

Connect load feed to a terminal on one side and then link it across to all the others on that same side using 30A cable and crimp-on spade connectors. Then the terminals on the opposite side all become outputs with their own fuse.

Best type of fuse box is a distribution type, one with a single input like this one (it even has an LED indicator to show whether each output is live and if a fuse has blown!)

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...to/FHAL106.jpg

You connect the load from the relay to the terminal post (nut) and then you gain six outputs which each have spade terminals and their own fuse.

Good place for all things auto-electrical here