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-   -   bearing fail (urgent) ( https://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?t=21245)

phil ten 19-08-13 17:45

bearing fail (urgent)
 
Hay

sorry to be a pain in the arse but i need my bike up and running within the next 3 days and at the mo.....its not working! :(

the sprocket carrier bearing has....well...exploded! its damaged the wheel bearing case a tiny bit (dented it in a touch). also dinked a little bit of the hub, but with a file i can sort that.

So i might as well change both wheel bearings and the sprocket carrier. i think i have the numbers for them (can anyone confirm?) so will see if i can get them from somewhere other than yamaha (as im not a millionaire :sad1: )

never really dealt with bearings that much in the past. I know putting them in you should put them in the freezer over night and run a heat gun over the hub / sprocket carrier.

BUT...its getting the ******s out. PLEASE ADVISE as this is a race against the clock :)

Thanks guys

Gas_Up_Lets_Go 19-08-13 18:15

Don't panic... it's easy peasy.

Rear Bearings - 6203-2RS
Carrier Bearing - 6304-2RS

Available in lots of places - Here's one I found on Google -> http://www.bearingstation.co.uk/Prod...ed/63042RS-SKF

You might even find a local supplier of bearings (if there's on in Carlisle, most places will have one close by)

You will need a long drift/piece of pipe/metal bar etc, take off the carrier and gently tap it out from the other side.

Replacing is easier, use the outside of the old carrier bearing if it is still in one piece and place it against the new one and tap the bearing in (hitting the old one, not the new one!) - simple.

I've never worried about heating, freezing of big presses on my bike bearings, even the headstock isn't too hard to get out. You can replace your wheel bearings on the roadside with the right tools.

If your carrier has gone, I'd be inclined to replace both wheel bearings too, chances are one or both will have taken some wear before the carrier has gone - and for a few quid, it's worth the piece of mind.

It's the same bearing fro the front as it is for the rear. Worth ordering some spares if funds allow.

phil ten 19-08-13 18:47

yeah, there the numbers i have. Thanks fella. what about the seals, do they have a seperate number?

just took the sprocket carrier bearing out....not much left of it :( It's slightly damaged the inside of the sprocket carrier, gently filed it out though. Was just a little "nic" really.

I did my front wheel bearings on my Fazer and they were a ***** to get out, that put me off doing bearings! :)

Any tips on bearing makes e.t.c im trying to get hold of a friend as im sure he knows a bearing shop where we live. I know he always buys quality bearings but dont know the make.

while we're on the subject....Wemoto sell Cush Drive rubbers at a much lower price than Yamaha, any one used them? ive packed mine a few times but there starting to get quite knackered! actually, they seal bearings too??!?

Why do things always happen days before going away on your bike?!?

Cheers

uberthumper 19-08-13 20:18

Bad luck Phil. Mine did that during the Beacons Rally last year.

Seals - are generally just specified by ID x OD x Width, so you should be able to find generic ones, but for the amount of effort involved I'd just order them from Wemoto.

No heat or enormous force required for wheel bearings, just a gentle tap. Important thing is to always tap them in by the race which is fitted - so in the case of wheel bearings, the outer race. Never hit the inner race to fit the outer race.

As Gulgo says, the old bearing outer race is the ideal tool to fit the new one. Alternatively, a suitably sized socket is a good option.


Wheel bearings are easy. I disagree with Gulgo on the headstock bearings - it's an absolute PITA getting the outer races out of the frame on the Tenere - there isn't enough sticking up above the shoulder in the frame to get a drift on easily. Getting the new lower bearing onto the steering stem without damaging anything is entertaining as well.


EDITED TO ADD: The last set of cush rubbers I had before I replaced my rear wheel were the Wemoto ones. They were certainly no worse than the Yam ones, although I still ended up packing them with inner tube eventually.

Gas_Up_Lets_Go 19-08-13 21:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberthumper (Post 190886)
I disagree with Gulgo on the headstock bearings - it's an absolute PITA getting the outer races out of the frame on the Tenere

Perhaps its training.... my old man showed me the way, he served his time building rockets!

Sorry I missed you on Saturday, you'd all bu99ered off by the time I got there. Did get to have a good look around the old timers on Sunday though.

Ohlins 20-08-13 00:17

If your buddy is too late with a supplier try www.yell.com and see if there's a shop near you?

As an aside before I install wheel bearings I always take the seal off (with a very small screwdriver)and pack with more grease as they don't come that well packed from the factory... I tend to use SKF,FAG or NTN marque.

If you're stuck for dust covers you can try to get a price from an agricultural supplies place also as another option.


:)




.

Seahorse 20-08-13 01:13

For more info on greasing bearings...look here

http://www.xt660.com/showthread.php?...light=Greasing

phil ten 21-08-13 22:15

Well, think ive sorted it. Will give it a test ride 2mo.

You were right, bearings came out fairly easy. The 2 wheel bearings & sprocket bearing went in even easier. Briefly used a heat gun on the hub. Paid �33 for 3 FAG bearings, and �10 for the two seals.

The hardest part is putting the real wheel back!!!:( I must of put that wheel in 10 times in the past and every time it drives me mad! The last 2 times ive taken the pads out to fit the wheel.

uberthumper 22-08-13 08:00

You need a Talon wheel :D

phil ten 22-08-13 09:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberthumper (Post 190986)
You need a Talon wheel :D

YES I DO!! i did actually email Talon, but they never got back to me. You got one?

I want them front and back - 18" rear with super strong spokes and standard size 21" front but i would like to convert to a single disk (305mm like the HP2)


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