Bead Breaking.
 

I put another rear tyre on the other day and had the usual problems breaking the bead on the old tyre. I've had the same problem on my last 3 rear tyres now. I also did my missus' KLR rear tyre at the same time and I didn't even need a tool to pop that one, it almost fell off. I'm beginning to think it's the rough black surface of the rim, the tyre just seems to weld itself to it. The KLR has a shiny smooth silver surface. I worked as a mechanic for 20 years and even worked in a tyre shop for 4 years so I pretty much know every trick in the book. I even had the new Motion Pro tool which didn't budge it. I had to take it down the road to a tyre shop for them to pop it and I did the rest. I think if I get a puncture out in the sticks I'll be screwed. Especially worrying the other day as I was doing the Trans Labrador Hwy which is in the arse end of nowhere. Just wondered if anyone else has the same issues ?

Have the same problem with the rear wheel. I had to use vice to break the bead and change the tire. It really sucks. One of the tire workshops in Kazakhstan could not break it with proper tire change machine. I know that this is for safety reasons, but I think that Yam engineers overdid it. The good thing is, that when you get flat, one side of the tire goes out from the bead so that you can take out the tube. I am seriously considering to change the rear to excell rim when I come back to Europe, unless somebody knows some better solution...

Sent from my GT-I9100G

at home I use one of these:
http://www.yabe-office.de/Bilderserv...3.46398992.jpg

in the field a center stand is very convenient. Put bike on center stand and break the bead with the side stand.

[QUOTE in the field a center stand is very convenient. Put bike on center stand and break the bead with the side stand.[/QUOTE]

Tried it - Didn't work. Like I said, I've tried all the tricks. Even a proper tyre machine has trouble with it. It seems to be a problem with the design or surface of the rim.

My experiences so far seem to be very different. Haven't had any problems with getting old tyres off.
The last time I *****ed and swore was while putting on a rear AC10 with mousse on the WR. But the XT always seems to go quite smoothly. Are you running aftermarket rims or tyres with extremely stiff walls?

I never have problems removing or fitting the tyre, it's just breaking the bead. Standard rim and has been different tyres.

I consider breaking the bead an integral part of removing the tyre, so there as well I really haven't had any issues with it so far.

I've always been able to do it with the sidestand.

Of course I now have a small problem that I don't have a centrestand any more (bent in a rallying crash), but I've also got an Excel rim now, which lets go a bit easier.

The rear wheel is difficult because (unlike the front) it bizarrely has a tubeless tyre type cross-section; there is a small bead hump on the inner edge of the bead seat. To get the tyre off easily the bead needs lifting over this hump into the dropwell in the centre of the rim. Simply pushing and using brute force, just causes the bead to drag across or snag on the hump. The easiest way I’ve found is to use a small 9” tyre lever with a thinnish spoon end which you can get under the tyre’s bead and then lift (and push/lever) over that troublesome bead hump.

AFAIK the KLR has a standard tube-type rim cross-section without the inner ridge to get over, which is probably why the tyre just "fell off" in comparisson. The Excel rim is the same; it also doesn't have the inner bead hump.

IMO the brand of tyre makes a big difference. Of the tyres I’ve changed on the rear of the Tenere, this is how I reckon they stack up in order of ease of changing…

(1) TKC80 (soft carcass) = easy
(2) Tourance = relatively easy
(3) Heidenau K60 = tough
(4) Dunlop Trailmax TR92 (stiff radial carcass) = very hard work

I will say I fitted a TKC a few years ago and it was extremely easy to fit. The last one was a cheapy Shinko.